Need4Speed

It means look for another warning light. If you haven't got another light on then it could be the other light has a duff bulb. You do wear the seat belt when driving don't you? I think all the lights come on when the ignition is first switched on so you can see which ones work

Pinking sounds like a metallic rattle which goes away if you ease off the throttle. What happens with mine is that the ignition re-times to stop the pinking as I get off the throttle. Pinking sounds like the engine going "pink pink":p

What, the pinks or the mileage, or the age of the plugs? The pinking I can hear

Ah, Chris, so you are still looking in this board. Haven't seen you here for a little while.

Normally I see 110C and up to 125C on a serious track day. I'm using the infamous Valvoline and change it every 5000. Absolutely no problems.

They've been in there all the time I've had the car (a year/12k miles) It used to be happy to at least 1.1 bar. Still, 60K service to do soon, so I'll change them.

I've got a little detonation on 1 bar or so boost, just a couple of pinks. Is it possible this is due to ageing plugs? Car's done 59K and I've no idea how old the plugs except that they're no more than 59k:) Yes I use optimax

Barking mad. It's got three turbo-chargers and all they can tell you about is audio and a play station

I run 275/35x17, but not on standard rims.

Lucky you didn't part with (a discounted) £900 a wheel then:eek:

Aren't you talking about spring preload here?

I don't follow this "less movement is harder work" stuff. The problem you will experience with higher rate springs on standard shock absorbers will be that the oscillation of the spring will be short but at a higher frequency than the shock absorber can damp. In other words the spring will bounce a lot. You really need to uprate the damping to match the springs.

Race gearboxes are designed for fast shifts at max revs and are very noisy (they use straight-cut gears). They are usually designed for quick changes of ratios, but have a very short life between rebuilds - maybe as little as 1000 miles or less. Not a lot of use on the road.

The reason F1 went to two pedals was to make the car narrower at the front - not an issue with a Supra:)

It won't really make the car any faster. If you're a quarter mile fan, which I'm not, you'd be better practising your starts to improve your reaction time. If you just want to do it for the hell of it, good luck and why not.

If you are thinking along the lines of the WRC gearboxes, here's a few useful numbers. The box used on the Peugeot 206 WRC is the single most expensive component on the car. I can't remember if it is £30K or £60K, but it's more than a Supra. The more conventional type of sequential transmission uses what is termed "power-shifting". This is changing up without the clutch while killing or retiming the ignition to dip the power at the point the gear changes. This takes the load off the gear selector mechanism. On a normal dog type gearbox (as opposed to a synchromesh one) you can perform clutchless up-changes by momentarily lifting off the throttle while changing gear. This also relies on the ratios being very close so the gears are rotating at relatively close speeds. This type of transmission is totally unsuited to road driving.

Terminator - I had noticed and at first it had me confused. I could do this yet it was instantly obvious to me that the car had an LSD when I first test drove it.

No comment

Steve - yes but you have to break traction on both wheels. An LSD makes the car much more stable coming out of corners under power. With a conventional diff, once one wheel spins it loses all its lateral grip as well, leaving the other to put the power down and provide all the cornering forces at the rear. It can't do all this, so the car spins. You're always better off with an LSD.

Am I correct in thinking that these Thorsen units behave like ordinary diffs if you have the back wheels off the ground? As in turn one and the other turns in the opposite direction, like a conventional diff.

Yes but it's unlikely as one wheel will break traction first and with a car like the Supra, it will light up pretty quick.

Martin, that diff on ebay looks interesting, but I'm puzzled by the "my mate the mechanic" bit because you have to strip one to see whether it's in good nick. I didn't realise people were talking about the whole assembly, case and all. I though everybody was a bit casual about how easy it was to swap a diff.

Exactly the opposite. A Limited Slip Differential does exactly what it says on the tin; it limits slip between the driven wheels, so you can only really spin both together. If you have an LSD, wet weather traction will be noticably better as will controlled slides or drifts, as they are fashionably known. If you've got a manual with LSD then spin-turns and doughnuts are quite easy.

Thorin - yo:cool:

Buy a J-spec. You get all those interesting labels in Kanji & Kana to figure out - hours of fun:)