Need4Speed

I can e-mail you the wiring diagram in English if it helps.

Boost Gauge, Boost Gauge, Boost Gauge, Boost Gauge, Boost Gauge, Boost Gauge, is all I have to say. It's like running without a rev-counter.

What, the child care bloke? Illogical Captain, you mean Mr Spock! ...I've boldly gone...

Can I suggest measuring under the front cross-member etc, then you will get a ride-height figure that means something.

My no.1 still runs 0.7 but when no.2 comes on stream, all hell lets loose!

It doesn't affect anything below std. boost.

Cheers guys

2 questions before I start. Can anybody tell me the socket size for the infamous crank bolt and is it RH or LH thread?

1. Put car on stands 2. Remove undertray 3. Remove oil filter with strap-type socket tool 4. Fit new oil filter by hand 5. Wipe up small amount of spillage Once you've done it, it's easier the next time, but it's never really easy. Presumably a Japanese robot in the factory has no trouble fitting them to start with.

I have a Blitz dual SBC and consider it to be a fantastic piece of kit for the money. What it does is: monitors the boost level and then bleeds off a liitle boost to fool the waste gate into staying shut. If you are running 1 bar, the waste gate only sees 0.7bar max etc. other useful things is it gives you a boost gauge with a peak hold reading (handy for spotting boost spikes) and different settings that you can pre-program for different levels of boost. I keep the top level for track with octane booster etc and normally run the next one down. You can also turn off the unit and your car becomes standard again. In terms of what it does (more power) for the money, I rate it. Mechanical bleed valves are OK if you have an XR2 turbo, but that's it.

C'mon Chris, don't mix your temperature scales:)

Shock absorbers are cheaper than tyres. What size are your tyres?

or boxes of 10 (handy if you have a Viper) or loose.

Because there has been a problem before and someone bodged it is my guess. There's no excuse for this sort of thing with a car this good!

I hear from my race engine builder that certain octane boosters in certain engines cause rapid valve seat wear. I don't know if any of this is relevant to Supra engines or not.

Engine out:eek:

Take out all the plugs and inspect. Check all 6 compressiuons to tell if you've lost a piston or valve seats. If OK seek further advice, else see the bank manager:eek: Also check that the inlet pipes are all connected OK - between the intercooler and the throttle body. (maybe do this first)

You can buy a ball-joint splitter for a fiver

On the question of road/tryres/brakes/heat - yes the tyres stop the car but the brakes stop the tyres. Now will sombody post a full resolution of the component forces in operation here:)

Ian - you're obviously not old enough to remeber drum brakes at the front:D

Slide out as opposed to "you need a 200 ton fly press".

Top is a ball joint and you'll need a splitter. CV joint (outer) looks like take off the centre nut and it'll slide out.

Got to get my back wheels of tomorrow morning, so I'll have a look to see how it goes together - can't remember.

There's some fascinating ideas going on here. The main reason for slotting discs is to prevent the pads depositing material on the disc and therfore reducing the effectiveness of the brakes. The only way a car slows is by converting kinetic energy into heat (and a little to sound). A brake will operate most effctively at the designed operating temperature. This will be low in a family saloon and very high in a carbon/carbon systen such as found in F1. The Supra discs are ventilated internally (note a LH disc is different form a RH disc because it rotates in the opposite direction) and the best way to cool this type of disc is to duct cold air into the ventilated area from the centre. This enables both surfaces of the disc to cool evenly and avoids warping. The rotation of the standard discs draws air through anyway, but a big duct picking up air from the front of the car will help. If you are only doing ordinary track days, good pads and standard discs will be OK. If you are trying to get an extra tenth off your lap times at Goodwood, you may need a little more. If all you want is to look the mutt's nutts, then big, drilled, slotted discs with soft pads are the way to go. If all you do is road driving, the standard UK brakes will never let you down (Toyota spend £millions designing this stuff). What ever you do, don't fit carbon/carbon on a road car. I heard somebody turned up for a track day at Brands with F3 brakes on a Mitsubishi EVO and cooked them, leaving the car with nothing more than a handbrake at the end of the straight - good thing there's a big gravel trap.

I'm going to change the cam belt at 60k, any pitfalls or advice gained from experience would be welcome.