Need4Speed
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Everything posted by Need4Speed
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Hi Supradad, and welcome. Sorry to hear about your little shunt. I take it you don't want to claim on insurance? Sounds like you've done a good bit of damage.
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Change the whole lot, then you know where you're starting from.
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Tyres - I thought Supras all had Z rated tyres - and you don't plug those - what next? Remoulds? If you want to get the best I would recommend brand new tyres buffed down to 3mm - money being no object... Bobbeh, I came across an F40 owner years ago who let his daughter drive it on L plates.
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Why do you want to move it? Do you mean making it more likely you'll crash? You can get around the acid issue by using a Varley race battery - Dry and can be mounted any way up you like - also light weight.
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I wouldn't worry... I think there's only two of us following this thread now.
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Radius!
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Fire148 (it makes sense now!) I'm sure you won't be disappointed - except for the wheel cleaning!
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It's in Belgium and it's not in Brussels...
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Thirsty car? can I recommend a 5.9L Jeep Grand Cherokee:eek: All the examples I've seen in France have LPG... wonder why?
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Hmmm... I think you may find pressures are a dictated by tyre size, car weight, weight distribution, type of tyre, compound, and use. I'm sure I've missed a few parameters - CW, any comments?
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Whifbitz & Envy Performance both supply Porterfield. The R4 pads are race spec and produce a lot of black dust, but they will stand up to repeated 130mph - 140mph stops. I also use AP racing fluid and s/steel Goodridge hoses. My advice - Never do that in France or Belgium, you won't see your car again. Save it for Germany or track days:D edited for typos
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Not the fluid, it's the pads. Fluid problems will cause very long/soft pedal. Get Carbon/Kevlar pads such as Porterfield R4. This discs will warp before the pads fade - I know!
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If you haven't got the spring clips on, wind down the windows next time you're in a multi storey - they sound like a bag of wheels nuts rattling in heavy tin.
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275/35 17 Rears are 32 235/40 17 Fronts are 32 Car is in the garage and hasn't been driven for 6 hours If you've got 37psi on a cold night with cold tyres, let them down a few pounds. What is this all about? edit: They're probably shot then - sidewalls. I check mine at least twice a week and every decent long run. I also check them cold then warm - you'd be surprised how much the pressure changes.
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If your city driving is traffic jam stuff that sounds reasonable. It's hard to tell accurately without sitting in your car watching you drive. First thing to have a look at is air-filter. Is it clean? You don't need to get an expert in for that.
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Mole Grips, Hammers, Christ I'm not letting any of you lot near my car... What are you all? Plumbers. Suspension C-Spanners from Tweeks are only a few quid. I've got some stillsons otherwise... Hey you could save another 50p by organising the C-Spanner group buy. I can't believe I'm reading this thread.
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I'll just cruise in if I can make it. House move... You haven't been to Spa I take it:cool:
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If nobody else has anything constructive to say here I'm unsubscribing. On the WSB subject, the Japanese factories know the series doesn't count for much outside UK.
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All very entertaining, but it doesn't solve my ODO problem:eek:
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I was hoping I'd find evidence that this hade been done Jake, and therefore would be easy to reverse. But I found what must be a UK spec ODO. Any suggestions?
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Cheers Matt. I'm converting it all back to kms at the moment, and assumed there was a jumper somewhere I hadn't found. Everything is going back to original settings except the speed limiter. Here's an appeal to everybody who converts Jap imports. PLEASE don't cut wires right on the connecter plugs! I'm doing some pretty tight soldering on some VERY short wires!
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Anybody know how I get it to say Km rather than miles on the ODO? - by which I mean the actual word not how the numbers clock up.
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I just take off thye calipers - only takes a minute - 2 bolts
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Very poor taste
