Need4Speed

Sounds like you've got a siezed one. It's quite likely that it will strip as a result of corrosion! Your best bet may be to split it before you wreck the damper body thread. Then you have to get a new spring mount ring. Chris Wilson may be worth a try, he knows a thing or two about shock absorbers. Best of luck!

Don't know in that case.

But is the air-conditioning compressor running as, on mine, it shuts off ass I turn off the key and my idle does something like yours!

Ooop Ooop!

Full throttle and listen for hiss accompanied by less boost than you'd expect.

Have you got your climate control running?

It rather depends on the size of the driver as to the fit of the harness. At my height the gap between the seat top and the headrest just happens to be spot on.

Provided the anchor points are mounted to something that won't break in an accident, it doesn't matter what they're fixed to. Personally I thing the chassis of the car is strong enough. The issue of strap angles is defined in the RAC Blue Book. Has anyone got one and can upload the relevant diagram?

You can't use more than 4 point with a standard seat.

DON'T use compressed air to get pistons out - I nearly lost fingers doing that once! And never split a caliper.

This is my 4 point. It's all bolted to the chassis using threaded anchor plates. The shoulder straps go over the bar in the bas of the rear seat back and then attach to the floor just behind it. It all folds into the boot when not needed. Only applicable if you are racing under MSA regs. It's worth complying with race regs if you can, but common sense and some thought are all you really need if you're doing track days.

No! I'll try and get a photo or two of how I mounted my four point so it's only available with the back seat folded down. I don't carry back seat passengers on track:D

Cheaper to buy a TT

A bit of clutch slip would be apparent if litres of oil were heading that way... and then it would run out of the flywheel housing.

but not at torque-ic.co.uk and Torque IC is definitely not in Ashford where it used to be.

If it's using oil and it's not leaking, the only other way out of the engine is up the exhaust.

Good riddance - I'd ban it outright. Give 1 year's notice to allow people to quit. And while they're at it, ban chewing gum!

arf arf!

So you're selling it quickly then!

Aren't there a few creditors looking for him? The Registered Nutter car was last heard of in the North East - Ask the Envy boys.

Variations on this are driving between two places that you know the real distance between... Motorways have markers on them you can use. You're looking for a huge error here, not just 5% or something. Alternatively, dismantle the dashboard and look at all the junped wires and see what's wired to what and how many little black boxes you can find.

Of course, if you want ultimate dry grip and money is no object... dont forget to have your new tyres shaved to 3 or 4mm!

Ps2

Lucifer... I can't claim to have used tyres that I haven't, but Michelin are well know in racing circles as the tyre company who know how to combine grip and life. If I want pure track tyers I'll look to homologation specials. It's a road car, not a race car. Yoko A048R are, no doubt, a good track day tyre!

I've used Bridgestone S01 and S03, Toyo and Falken and compared to Michelin Pilot Sports they are useless. The Michelins (as any long distance racer knows) give loads of grip, wet or dry, and they just keep on going. Mine are 14,000 miles old and still have a good 2-3K miles left on the rears and probably 5-6K on the fronts. Now before you say "you must drive like a granny", I've done track days with them, I don't have traction control and I like oversteer. You may draw your own conclusions. For info I'm on 18" rims with 245/40 front and 275/35 rears. I will take a HUGE amount of convincing that there's a better road tyre out there.