Konrad

yes, as per other topic i did it and it works fine

before you strip car apart, start with immobiliser. I've got factory LS400 immobiliser in mine and every time battery goes flat i need to leave LS400 key with transponder near ignition ring for 15 minutes with ignition on, so it has time to program itself. It allows me to crank, but won't start.

never had any issues with them, even after repair all works fine, they just move like they will fall apart any time but never actually did

Hey folks, Long time no see, but I want to share some interesting observation with you. I just finished stripping passenger side mirror (it was replacement for folding one which was damaged long time ago). Replacement mirror was from car with heated mirrors, so did not fold with a button, but it did not bother me back then. Some time later i bought set of folding facelift mirrors and was planning to paint them to my Supra colour and install them. Then i stumbled across topic about dismantling mirror and reusing plastic covers, so I basically moved internals of facelift folding mirror into plastic covers I already had on my Supra (freshly painted too!). My Supra is prefacelift aerotop with original folding mirrors, so plugs on facelift mirrors did not fit one in my prefacelift door loom (facelift plug is 5 pin, prefacelift is 9 pins). So obviously I removed 5 pin plug, found 9 pin plug from my old smashed mirror (I kept bloody thing in box for 8 years! ). Thats, when I discovered that loom on door side got actual 7 wires running in a 9 pin connector! 3 were used for regulation of a mirror up/down/left/right, 2 for fold/unfold, but it also has extra 2 wires with colours identifying as heated mirror connection. So technically, if I install heated mirror glass on my folding mirrors and feed 2 extra wires to 9 pin connector in corresponding pins responsible for heated mirrors, I can have both worlds in one solution. I'm not sure its common knowledge or not, I just discovered it today when I was fighting with connector swaps and wiring diagrams lol

I think you already got mine, I confirmed via FB

I can go

ok tickets booked I will book another set for a good friend with really nice rare Subaru if you dont mind

hotel booked for Bristol stay

Ah damn, missed that one somehow

Tiny bulbs found inside of climate control are t1 bulbs with 4mm diameter.

Sounds like classic boost pipe split

If both sides are moving with same speed, it is just matter of tinkering until you set seat straight. There is also small part there with spiral thread, its plastic and tend to fail. I think ive seen someone selling metal equivalent of this for mk4 supra seat.

both sides can be turned manually from the front of the seat. I think it was hex key, but it was ages ago since i had to do that. Just look under seat from front where rail meets seat.

I used old valve, just cut top of it and welded it shut. Below you got youtube video with bolt being used instead of welding.

In 1uzfe conversion world most people blank it, saves them trouble with valve failing and spreading oil everywhere. I had no issues or noises when turning wheels when stationary, revs drop down a fraction, but way above stall point.

If it helps, when I installed 1uzfe in mine, i got rid of this valve and just blanked a hole. All is good.

I used this settings with one cheap chinese copy adaptor, but at the moment I'm using ObdLink adaptor ( https://www.obdlink.com/ )

What command you added in advance settings? in VERY ADVANCED settings just add this command ATIB 96 \n ATIIA 13 \n ATSH8213F0 \n ATSP4 \n 0100 use ISO 14230-4 (fast init, 10.4k baud) as preffered OBD2 protocol This worked with 2jz VVTI and it also works with 1UZFE VVTI https://www.supraforums.com/threads/obdii-2jz-gte-vvti-jzs161.1118031/

https://www.eventbrite.co.uk/e/caffeinemachine-weird-summer-weekends-tickets-114612493052 Just choose date and our time slot

Add me in, just got the ticket.

when i click link it asks for password and no dates can be chosen

Sounds like tensioner pully to me

Black/White wire behind speedo cluster - cut it. RPM in cable from Yury box connect to loom side, red to IG+, black to G and RPM out wire to IG- (IG+, G and IG- are at back of cluster with screws in them). All written on the back of cluster. You also need to take off RPM dial and bypass resistor. https://www.supraforums.com/threads/n-a-tach-resistor-bypass.544909/

I know it is old tread, but i would like to bump it with some info for future reference. Times move on and in 2020 we can get "magic boxes" from our Russian friends at https://all4swap.ru/product/spd These are truly amazing, you basically tap in between speed signal from ANY speed sensor and your speedo or rpm signal and your rpm counter (resistor on rpm gauge must be bypassed) and then you start car, open box and click button until your speedo/rpm starts showing proper values.Work on basically any 1uzfe or 1jz/2jz conversion to any car you wish. I just finished connecting 2 of them for my 1uzfe vvti Supra and it works like a dream Owner of shop is Yury Baranov on Facebook, you can also get them from Phoenix Engine Management (Chris) in UK. Chris made my wiring (i sent my 1uz loom and orange/grey plug to him and he sent back plug and play loom back to me). Both very communicative and helpful.