Konrad

yes, as per other topic i did it and it works fine

before you strip car apart, start with immobiliser. I've got factory LS400 immobiliser in mine and every time battery goes flat i need to leave LS400 key with transponder near ignition ring for 15 minutes with ignition on, so it has time to program itself. It allows me to crank, but won't start.

never had any issues with them, even after repair all works fine, they just move like they will fall apart any time but never actually did

Hey folks, Long time no see, but I want to share some interesting observation with you. I just finished stripping passenger side mirror (it was replacement for folding one which was damaged long time ago). Replacement mirror was from car with heated mirrors, so did not fold with a button, but it did not bother me back then. Some time later i bought set of folding facelift mirrors and was planning to paint them to my Supra colour and install them. Then i stumbled across topic about dismantling mirror and reusing plastic covers, so I basically moved internals of facelift folding mirror into plastic covers I already had on my Supra (freshly painted too!). My Supra is prefacelift aerotop with original folding mirrors, so plugs on facelift mirrors did not fit one in my prefacelift door loom (facelift plug is 5 pin, prefacelift is 9 pins). So obviously I removed 5 pin plug, found 9 pin plug from my old smashed mirror (I kept bloody thing in box for 8 years! ). Thats, when I discovered that loom on door side got actual 7 wires running in a 9 pin connector! 3 were used for regulation of a mirror up/down/left/right, 2 for fold/unfold, but it also has extra 2 wires with colours identifying as heated mirror connection. So technically, if I install heated mirror glass on my folding mirrors and feed 2 extra wires to 9 pin connector in corresponding pins responsible for heated mirrors, I can have both worlds in one solution. I'm not sure its common knowledge or not, I just discovered it today when I was fighting with connector swaps and wiring diagrams lol

I think you already got mine, I confirmed via FB

I can go

ok tickets booked I will book another set for a good friend with really nice rare Subaru if you dont mind

hotel booked for Bristol stay

Ah damn, missed that one somehow

Tiny bulbs found inside of climate control are t1 bulbs with 4mm diameter.

Sounds like classic boost pipe split

If both sides are moving with same speed, it is just matter of tinkering until you set seat straight. There is also small part there with spiral thread, its plastic and tend to fail. I think ive seen someone selling metal equivalent of this for mk4 supra seat.

both sides can be turned manually from the front of the seat. I think it was hex key, but it was ages ago since i had to do that. Just look under seat from front where rail meets seat.

I used old valve, just cut top of it and welded it shut. Below you got youtube video with bolt being used instead of welding.