Rich8v

I fitted a j spec rear subframe to a UK car. The brakes your changing. The diff will need changing as the UK has a pump. If your changing all the suspension arms and hubs over make sure the the j spec car has abs.

Dont forget the Uk,s have a 2nd oxygen sensor in the 2nd cat as well. Not the biggest concern as I belive some people just put a bag over the sensor and tie it up out of the way. Or you could drill a jspec decat pipe to fit the sensor. Or buy a Uk spec pipe with a flange on. Either way i think the whifbitz pipes would just make it alot easier (straight fit).

Out of interest did you weigh the car before taking any parts off.

Was watching that burnout on the trailer in the multimedia section and in the links theres more wheelie cars. Saved

Just read through this post. Its along wait but it will be worth it.

The same on my 16year old UK SUPE. 16 years of salty winter roads and the pipes looked fine until you removed the plastic cover on the rear cross member.

You are lucky. That could have been a lot worse.

I wondered what had happened to the other car, he must of backed off.

Sorry I've kept you waiting. I took a picture out of my manual as well just to make sure were talking about the same gasket. I cant see why it would be different in Ireland but i have my invoice here for the single gasket. Unit price £2.08. As i tried explaining earlier the number two oil return pipe is part of the oil feed pipe. Your most likely going to have to take out the union bolt for the oil feed pipe in the block, to drop the pipe. Theres two crush washers that should be replaced as well if you take out the union bolt. I changed both my gaskets when i had my engine in bits, and the No. 1 pipe again on the car. Baring in mind the engine in my car has 130000miles on it so you may not have these problems. Your most likely going to have to remove the whole pipe from the car because the gasket may be stuck solid to one of the faces. Both my gaskets were stuck to the oil pipe. Scrape it off but go careful. To get the pipe out to scrape the gasket off, your going to have to remove it from the rubber pipe which is likely to have gone hard. I ended up cutting the pipe off and replacing it. Not cheap though, I paid £12 for the rubber pipe for the number 1 Turbo return pipe from Toyota. Lastly try and check the mating face of the solid pipe for straightness. One of mine was warped from the heat of the turbo and was leaking. Hense me having to change the gasket on the car.

Just to clarify do you mean the return oil pipe that is the hard pipe that is joined to the oil feed pipe. So the gasket is for the feed and return pipe. You can get the gasket on its own from Toyota. Part number T15471-46010. I can take a picture of the gasket for you tomorrow as I've just changed one of mine.

Comes up under the rear seat through a large gromit. Where the hole is in the pic. The wire coming out of the small gromit is the abs wire.

I have high hopes for this project aswell.

Theres a TT with one cat and a stock exhaust in the dB register. It gives you a point to work from. I cant see a complete stock exhaust on a tt or na being alot quiter at those noise levels. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=217156

I've spoken to him on the phone today. Give him a ring. Even if he doesn't answer he will ring you back.

Ignore me. I took the pulley off the car, and there is some play in the bearings. So I'm going to get a new pulley.

I have an issue with my cambelt traveling back and forth on the pulleys. I replaced the tensioner and the idler pulley at the same time as the cambelt change. After 500 miles i noticed the cam belt had little chunks taken out of it (from the timing star). And scores on the other side of the belt. I've striped everything down and found movement in the idler pulley. I just fitted a new bolt and washer, and its the same. Annoyingly i've thrown away the old pulley, so i cant refit that to compare it. Is this movement normal? Also I have measured the protruson on the tensioner and its nearly 10mm. Which searching on hear explains the supercharger sound (streched belt) i could hear at higher revs. Maximum should be 8.8?mm in the manual. should i replace this again seeing as its only done 500miles? Or just press it back in fit the pin and refit it.

Such a shame for luizzi. Let's hope Hamilton looks after his tyres now.

I take it everyone's getting ready for kickoff then.

whats missing? The timing star came off last with the timing belt pully. So the next thing on the crank is the front crank seal. Is that right? I've got it somehow in my head that i'm missing somthing.

Looks like an aftermarket pully that will replace the whole oem crank pully. This is not really advised (someone else will have to explain) because it replaces the harmonic balancer that the stock pully has built in.

Did you not fit the polybush kits that wifbitz sells? (cant remember which brand they are). Due to suplier issues I ended up with a set from paul and the R2 polyurethane kits turn up at the same time. The R2 bushes just seemed alot better quality and they certanly are better than my worn out stock bushes, although i only done 500 miles on them and at stock tt power. I fitted the steering rack polybush kit from wifbitz and it failed during the Mot for to much play???? So far I rate the R2 bushes based on them being a cheaper alternative to replacing the whole arms. Paul mac - good luck with the rebuild, certanly the best money i spent on my car refreshing all my suspension components.

Well done mclaren, I was jumping out my chair chearing with excitment when the redbulls came together. Its good to see the mclaren cars have picked up some pace.

Assuming it was on the car from new, (most likely going by its condition). Mine failed at 130000miles/15 years. I got lucky, I was driving around for a week with strange noises not knowing what it was. As i needed the car i drove it until the weekend, and then when taking it apart the outer ring just came off in my hand. I can see how they can cause damage. They weigh quite abit, then times that by a few 1000rpm. Disaster.

Have you even had a look to try and see whats making the noise yet.

It used to be said that the vvti engine had a lack of tunning options due to it being a newer engine. As opposed to the tried and tested non-vvti engine. But if you have a look around on this site there are several single turbo vvti engined cars putting out good power. SteveR comes to mind. Certanly if you were only going to bpu the car a vvti engine puts out more mid range torque. I sure some of the more experienced members will give some input in to this.