bodilx6

As payment for some help/work I've been offered an e-manage in stead of a promised Greddy replacement ECU. I wan't originally looking for any of these, but it is probably the best the man can do. Would I have any gains from getting an e-manage in my car? I've got friends that are more or less experts in mapping (HKS though) so I can probably get that done cheaply. My car is BPU j-spec, 6spd. Upgraded SMIC (from CW) and Walbro fuel pump. Stock J-spec injectors and tubbies. Any gains at this level? If my turboes were to go at some point I would probably be looking into hybrids due to local expertise in this. Would the e-manage be able to handle this and thereby save me money at that point? What is the e-manage worth aprox? Thanks!

How about just finding a near by member with UK brakes and stick one of your front wheels on there? I'll happily help, but I'm guessing Denmark is a bit far of..

I'm guessing you mean the Right Foot here. Well, those are not the ones that scare me. That's up to the driver not to do that. I've just heard several accounts on the supra loosing the rear out of a round about without any real throttle or wet road. It's those that scare me. I usually just file them under the "buf-of-cause-you-didn't-do-anything-wrong-while-crossing-my-fingers" category. Your post above just made me think and *definatly* off the thoughts of changing to poly bushes (which probably weren't going to happen anyway as I can't find anyone that I trust that would do the apparently horrible job)

Really interesting read. I'm thinking this "suspension lockup" can explain some of the unexplained incidents when people spin off without warning. Scary stuff.

Ridox, if you are talking front. There is OEM front, TRD front and Ridox front. Thats it. In my mind at least

When you say behind the dash, do you mean to the speedo cluster and spiliced that to the speedo signal from the ODO area? If so, you are feeding the "wrong" signal to the other ECU's which handle the active spoiler and power steering. It works and I have had that running for years but got tired of the spoiler going up/down constantly at motorway speed. On the plus side, you will also be have cheated the cruise control, which normally is limited to 112 km/t.

^what Nic says^ Also, I've been running UK brakes, TRD discs, CW lines and pads with Sparco fluid on the Nürburgring a few times now. As soon as they get up to temp, the pedal goes a tiny bit soft but stays there. I've never had fade but also never tried to brake from 170mph - low speeds several times. 120+ to low speed consecutively works fine though. But both on the Ring and smaller tracks they have worked out fine. The main thing about the UK spec brakes is that fitment is a straight swap (except for a bit of cutting the dust shields) but also you know the brake bias will stay where it should be. No point in upgrading to big brakes and not getting that right. Do a search and you should find a thread on calculations on big brake efficiency when used on the supra. Going big is far from better unless you really dive into it.

What is the weight of that? Do you have any idea of shipping price to Denmark?

You are on the right track. Temp variances make for quite a difference in pressure. Go to a trackday and see people adjusting tyre pressure constantly as its one of the most important part of getting the optimal grip and tyre wear. Depending on the cold temperature you start with, I would see it as most sensible to inflate to the wanted pressure when you have the tyre at the temperature mostly use it with. Then just make sure you check you the pressure @ roughly the same tyretemperature each time it doesn't have to be at the same temperature as you when you inflated it.

Has anyone tried this? It should be a new product. I would love to see/hear a video of it and reports on how it sounds @ cruising speed on motorways as I'm after something that does not make that "droning" sound. http://whifbitzperformancetuning.co.uk/toyota-supra-supra-exhausts-decats-exhausts-garage-whifbitz-p-5946.html

Let us know what you find!

We are a bunch from the Danish supra club going for our 2nd trip of the year. Staying at Am Tiergarten, biking around the track on Saturday, taking pics. If anyone wants pictures of them driving, let's meet up.

No, sorry. I can find a picture from the TSRM maybe. Is't the standard one people often replace with an aftermarket Blow Off Valve. So if the car has a BOV the OEM bypass valve probably isn't fitted anymore. Anything on this?

Weird. I haven't recieved anything. Could you try again? /Stefan

Pete, I've PM'ed you but havent heard back. I would happily pick it up from you. Let me know your counter offer

Scotts price sounds reasonable as it's both a time consuming job, but also very frustrating and repetitive.

No, sorry. I can find a picture from the TSRM maybe. Is't the standard one people often replace with an aftermarket Blow Off Valve. So if the car has a BOV the OEM bypass valve probably isn't fitted anymore.

No. Speedo change is quite easy. Just off with dash, speedo cluster out, switch speedo and then the same in reverse.. SLD is the 'harder' part.

Does it have an OEM bypass valve? I'm interested in that + hoses. Posted to DK please :-)

Sorry, it's not all facelift auto's that's difficult. I'm only certain that it's the 98 vvti that is. Not sure of the 96-98.. Regarding a speedo, you should go for a replacement. You probably can keep the 180kph but I don't know what happens when it goes for the second round. Maybe you can do a kph/mph conversion? You can get a 180mph/320kph for maybe 150£ or go for the more sought after TRD version. Don't know if that is available on MPH though. But it is a straight swap. No real problems there. The odo might be an issue if you want to convert to miles. Do a search for that. I'm in Denmark and we do kph :-)

Bear in mind you can only fit 4.5" speakers in the OEM speakerbox/fitment. You need to make your own to fit larger..

Yeah. The HKS SLD for automatic, facelift is a bit hairy. I would find something more simple if I were you unless you have someone who has done one of them before.

It does the job. There is - as far as I know - not really any difference in any of them, as it is just a conversion of the voltage that is forwarded through the speed connector to the ECU. Very simple. You will need to cut the pink wire in the top, right hand (as far as I remember) corner of the ECU connector and wire in this SLD. It also needs 12V and ground. But be really sure what you are doing before cutting any wires to the ECU.

What are your plans with it? Sounds interesting. Please post pics of what you find

Exactly. PAS and spoiler works when you fit a SLD to the main ECU by the passenger footwell as the main ECU is the last point in the speed signal chain. I will look more into it...