bodilx6

I was thinking about changing my coolant but Toyta wants like 55£ per 5L of red coolant and I need 10L for a complete flush. Is there really much of a difference between different brands of red coolant? 100£+ seem excessive for some coolant..

Also, its relevant for cooling due to pressure zones as well as clearing away turbulence

We have the same in Denmark. Car is what you are insuring hence this info in needed. If the agent at the insurance company are a little novice or straight by the book, he probably needs it to just give a quote.

Did you check your oil for contaminents during this?

I'll check tonight

ok, sounds like airlock is a possible culprit. Wouldn't a possible solution be to park the car on something steep or jack it up in the front and let it run idle with the rad cover off for a bit? Might start off with topping the expasion tank a bit. It is nowhere near half full. Thought that wouldn't matter though.

When I started the car up yesterday, I had a strange but very noticable gurgleing sound from behind the firewall. It kind of reminds me of the sound when my old MK3 had a knackered head gasket. In the last few weeks I've also noticed a comparable sound when the engine passes 2-3k revs while driving normally, but thats just for an instant at a certain rev. I've just changed oil and that looked very nice and normal. I don't see any white stuff in the oil, and knowing the head gasket is not a normal failure in the MKIV I don't think that is it. The car is BPU and has 100.000 miles on it. If I take the rad cover off and massage the coolant hose, it seems that it system is fully topped up. I dont have irregular idle (which I've noticed is typical after changing coolant due to air pockets) and all seems well temperature wise. I have not leaks. Any idea what to check?

Active spoiler is there for exactly the same reason. I havent seen any official numbers by toyota but again, if you are driving fast, you will feel the car getting "light" i the steering without spoiler or a lip. Quite easy to test though. Go on the motorway with the "auto off" switched on and have a feel.

Don't do the kit. Just paint the car. Stock body ftw!

This is not a OEM part is it? Is it ment to be used for a manual or auto?

You got 20£ for it?? Great sales sales work mate! :-D - I got mine, new, from Mr. T for roughly 12£

It's got nothing to do with braking. The spoiler puts down 66 lbs of downforce @ 90 mph (Toyotas own numbers) which equals to absolutly nothing at low MPH but quite alot at very high speeds. I put my own back on each time I go through Germany. 120MPH+ in long sweepers is where the first generation of Audi TTs suddenly threw their rear end. I'm not saying the supra will to the same without the spoiler, but I won't be the one finding out. So, to the OP: If you do any VERY high speed driving, leave it on. If not, your husband (and you) will not be in any danger from removing it.

I'm guessing you won't feel the difference. The most important thing about the unspring weight of wheels - as far as I know - is where the weight is placed. If it is towards the center it won't make that much of a difference, at least not in accelerating the wheel up compared to heavy outer weight. But take your tyre into account as well. That is kind of important if you think of the above. Your feeling regarding 18"->19" is probably due to the lower profile of the tyre or maybe the tyre itself than it being heavier. On the other hand you will probably have a sharper slipping marging compared to the old setup. Generally bigger wheels mean less performance. Especially for a car that was designed around 16" and 17".

Speaking of child seats. Check this one out I spottet at a nice hotel in Chester the other day: http://idisk.me.com/stefanbovien/Public/Childseat_bentley.jpg

Thats exactly the same thing I've heard from every single person I've asked about it. It must to 10+ that I've heard that from. And not even one has said anything else than it was the best money they ever spend on the car.. Well, high hopes then..

Would would be the best? Will the oil gather moist and gunk when the car being stationary most of the time or would fresh, new lube be better? I'm guessing it really doesnt make much of a difference, but hey oil is a religion for some..

Before actually ordering the parts, I'm thinking about retorquing my subframe bolts as I've found info on this could help an annoying sound I'm having. Doing this, I'm guessing we are talking about all the bolts that connect the suspension arms to the subframe, right? And this should be done while the car has its weight on the wheels. This got done by CW two years ago when changing my suspension, so I'm not expecting great things from it. Or are we talking the bolts that actually hold the subframe to the chassis?

Thanks Nic, great reply!

Sounds exciting Kim. Any way of seing it run in the CPH area? Wouldn't it be sad to miss out on the great weather we are having these days? I definatly make use of it all I can.

I think the strut rod is the one i call strut bar.. Right? I will post as soon as I have pricing. I'm guessing 2000£ roughly.. My adjusters are fine. I have had the alignment done several times, no worries there :-)

Would be so nice to have a proper motorway gear. Just cruised through Germany in a BMW 535 and at 110mph it runs roughly 3000 rpm. Thats good cruising

That looks impossible to use..

But Chris, the sound, THE SOUND of the V8 is just not "supra" :-D I friend of mine (well, actually I have two who did it) spend 10-20k£ on building a HKS stroker. He matched that with a pair of HKS Twins (don't remember their name, GT2835 or something) and that made 700-750hp. That was a "low" state of tune and it just runs very very well. Everything was build to handle much more and the car was used more or less as a daily driver. No dyno queen or 10 minutes warmup before driving. Just start it up and go. Nothing broke and only complaint was the price. So, if you want to go "exotic" supra, then that is - in my mind - the way. But make sure to not save anywhere. Get supporting mods, do got for 1000 hps, as that will ruin it as a drivable car on the road. Don't do this for the hp bragging right but to get the ultimate, muscular 2JZ. Expect running costs to rise due to clutches and so on. I know tripple plate HKS clutches aren't cheap.

My bushes are done for and I want to replace all suspension arms. Is this the complete list? And no, not interested in just going poly bush. 48610-19025 - Front; Upper, right arm 48630-19025 - Front; Upper, left arm 90119-10079, PNC# 48069D - Front; lower, left arm 90119-10079, PNC# 48068H - Front; lower, right arm 48710-14110, PNC# 48710A - Rear; lower, right arm no 1 48710-14110, PNC# 48720A - Rear; lower, left arm no 1 48730-14030 - Rear, lower, right arm no 2 48730-14060 - Rear, lower, left arm no 2 And is this part of the suspension? Well, it is, but is it part of what I want, when I want to change all bushes? 48780-14030 - Rear, strut bar. I guess I need two here.

Great, thx Chris Not running with cats. As far as I know, the 30-35 hp is also the max. And I'm not interested in pushing the tubbies to the max. But if upgrading them at some point, I would want something "real" to handle everything and from your post, e-manage dosn't sound like it. The guy that I would get to do it is a HKS dealer/destributor here in DK, so that would probably be the way to go then.