bodilx6

Ok, I've tightened my front subframe bolts up according to specs. 125nm for the "small ones" and 200nm, for the rest. Still get the sound. The 125nm was no prob but the 200nm was an issue with the torque wrench. It never clicked, so I just tightned all I could. Is there a specific way this should be done that I might have missed? I loosend each bolt, then tightned it and moved to the next. The sound can be gone for an entire day and then be back the next. For example yesterday it was really bad all the way to when I parked. Even driving into the parking spot. But this morning it was almost gone.. Really weird. I'm parked in a basement so temp are more or less constant. The drive yesterday was just regular city driving..

Reviving this: Did anyone ever try out the Stu Hagen system (or likewise)? That is get OEM-looking sequential system running with 500-550 fwhp without the EGT issues of the stock manifold/flance limitations.

Thanks mate, I'll try it out asap

Front. Arms all seem good after a visual inspection. They were installed from completly new a few thousand km back Sweet! Thats worth a look. Don't remember.. are they directly accessible with the car on a trolley jack? I'm guessing we are talking about these: http://www.mkiv.com/manual/manualtt/general_maintenance/mo14.jpg @ 125 nm & 200 nm, right?

I've got an uncomfortable clocking sound from my left wheel when turning at low speeds. Typically parking manouvers. It is relative to the turning of the wheel not the wheel turning. Sounds and feels like metal giving againt metal. I can feel it vaguely in the chassis. First I thought it was the top mounts, as a seized top mount would result in the spring releasing tenstion agains the strut tower when turning. But as the supras damper/spring isn't turning and only have up/down motion that is out. Annoyingly all symptons fitted very well with that. I have all new suspension arms, relatively new CW suspension and no apparent movement in any knuckles. Any ideas where to look?

All sorts of BS is going on in this thread. Everything from incorrect references to what ##W-## actually means to unsupported reccomendations. Correct that 10w-30 is the reccomended viscosity, but remember that is 20 years ago and semi synthentic. Today you would probably use a synthetic. Massive difference. Especially in longevity and "stretch" of the oil. And where does the fact that "60" mean breakdown resistance come from? The ##W-## is just a stement of viscosity. Thats it. That you might be able to generalize a certain viscosity haveing better resistance to the breakdown of the oil might have some trouth to it though. But still a generalization. As mentioned above, I also remember a very good explanation for most of the above posters to read. Another is this: 10w-60-oil.pdf

More pics please! I would like to see how it looks lined up to the rear OEM panels, pillars and so.

No, the walbro hasn't failed. I just had the chance to trade for it and thereby get a better pump that doesn't make noise and hopefully is the better choice.

I'm running j-spec BPU with a fuel pump of unknown brand. I'm guessing it is a Walbro, as the guy who installed it 6 years ago, when I knew nothing, called it "the internet pump" and talked about me having enough fuel for much more hp's that BPU will ever push. It is aly a bit noisy once in a while, with whineing noise, specifically after quick motorway driving. I know that to swap some fuel pumps in, need some relays installed, but I'm not sure when that is. Car was 100% stock before. Now I got a hold of a Denso pump, part no.: 195130-1020 (see pics) Now, the question is, will I be able to switch the two pumps without having to modify anything? When I get down there, what should I look for, if something has been modified to fit the first pump? Also, I'm guessing that the Denso pump easily will flow enough for BPU, so I won't have to worry with running lean or anything (I have uninstalled my wideband sensor)? Is the Denso pump just as trustworthy and high quality as the OEM pump or would it be more comparable to the Walbro and there by not making any sense replacing? (the guy that traded it to me told me it was an OEM pump...)

That sounds about right. 1st and second usually dont go above 1 bar. Maybe if held in 2nd, don't remember. If you pull 1.2 bar in higher gears, and you don't hear a very loud ch-ch-ch sound, then all is well with your BOV. You shouldn't get wheel spin in 2nd unless its cold or you have crappy or very cold tyres.

Also, you might experience the opposite. That it won't release pressure and you will get compressor stall with the well know ch-ch-ch sound. Do you build boost as you should?

+1 for nic

1) fightersblue (depending on price) 2) fosta (depending on price) 3) mplavery 4) stevo 5) l.chris97 6) jcbtt 7) RHochreuter 8) bodilx6 (Black, silver trim, Supra logo, RHD) 9)

Really wanna join, but need to know shipping price to DK.. thx

Anything on what price will be, delivered to Denmark?

Mine (j-spec) has lasted for 6+ years now. Soon 7. 50.000+ miles. Two yearly trips to The Ring through Germany not holding back on chasing top speed. A trackday or two on top of this each year. The car has not skipped a beat. Still pulls strong. I see 1 bar in hot weather and 1.2 in cold (seen 1.3 once or twice, but avoid that) From what I have heard, it is quite common for the tubbies to last for years if you use common sense. However, if people are looking to go single at some point, I guess they don't baby them too much..

Any chance of getting in on the group buy with delivery to Denmark? Any idea of price with shipping?

Thanks, but I have had a BOV and I got tired of the attention grabbing sounds. Regarding the flow, that might be right, but as I have no sound of compressor stall, then I'm guessing all is well. The other solution just removing it all together is all good, but not for avoiding turbo sounds. The disintegration of the BOV is more worring :-/ Maybe I should take it apart and check the state of things... Iky, it looks like you had to use a bit of violence to take it apart? Would it be able to fit back together? Is it pressed together rather than screwed together?

The easiest place to do this is at the signal wire at the radio connectors. There is a wire (seem to remember it being blue with a white stripe) running from the radio to the antenna. Simply insert a on/off switch there. Its working perfectly for me. It have it off 99,99% of the time and the antenna is down. Should I need better radio reception I just switch it to on and the antenna goes up. You don't have to mess with the 12V signal at all.

How about Chris Wilsons clutch? Its a stock clutch with a mildly upgraded spring that fits your powerlever perfectly. I didn't notice any change in pedal pressure even though Chris told me there should be a slight difference. I don't rember the price but it was very reasonable

Ok. I just replaced my force BOV with the OEM, and i don't notice anything. Only seem to have noticed a max boost of 1 bar and I have seen 1,1 and even 1,25 on cold days before. But havnet checked thoroughly yet. (har to get to the speed needed for max boost in mainly city driving)

Does anyone know when the stock bypass valve starts leaking boost? Will it keep tight up to BPU 1,2 bar?

Regarding the lower boost; that sounds about right to me as well. When I had only the 1st cat (OEM) mounted, my boost was around there. No cats with a bit RR or in my case a cat with a hole through it, results in the wanten 1-1,2 bar depending on gear, outside dem and so on. After mounting a 200 cell cat, you might see that change and need a boost controller to push it up higher. But keep an eye on EGTs as that can become an issue whith more back pressure. Placement of the cat can also affect boost as well as EGTs

Sorry to hijack, but what sports cat did you fit? It replaces the orignal 1st cat and you are not running the original 2nd cat and you did pass through MOT without emission issues?

Sounds like drop links. You are sure its not the boot rubbers? The sound is from the suspension? Is it only when one wheel is going over a bump or also when both hits a bump?