bodilx6

6spd, TT, BPU. When doing trackdays and everything is as hot as it gets, my engine lightly stutters and apparently spits a bit of fire when doing so. I'm guessing this is a failed spark and there by unburnt gas in the exhaust. Plugs are iridium and have MAYBE 20k on them, so no gappin'. I'm fairly sure (might be we just fixed them a bit) I got the plastic connectors on the coil packs replaced years back. Can they be causing issues again? Please correct me, if replacing them isn't possible and I'm recalling a dream or something.. If I'm correct though, what would be my next thing to look at? Also, if I inspect the coils, would I risk them crumbling, and then have a stuck car until I get parts? (It's freaking hard to test after, as it ONLY see this on track - for now..) Thanks

Ah...no, my nippels are up high... Ehm... @pedreosixfour: no,mi would not think so. Are you talking on track? What you describe is like my experiences with different brake pads and road driving..

What is the difference, if you did that? I mean; why would they heat up faster?

@2soops: this is very likely. Usually the time of year I'm down there the first time. @Swampy442: that would be bad, if that is a possibility. As far as I remember there is a 'L' and 'R' on them, right?

I've upgraded to 4/2 pot brakes, have TRD rotors as well as braided lines and fast road car pads from Chris Wilson. Also 300+ degree c brake fluid and the brake cylinder brace. I still fell squishy brakes after a few corners on track. Never on the road though. When I get the (used) set of brakes, I fully renovated them but the squishiness have been constant. Actually I have cone back to OEM pads, as they have a better feel on regular roads, but doesn't not work optimally on track either. I've run with or without shims, same result. Any ideas where to go next? As far as I can figure, I should not need to go with a big brake upgrade, as my driving on track is not aggressive nor often enough for this to be needed. Two times a year to the Ring and two - three trackdays is all. As my issues shows themselves within a very short distance on track, I'm guessing I can eliminate it being be over braking. I never go aggressively in brakes (as instructors usually tells me to do) to avoid the fade. Except checking for seized calipers (which should be weird, as problem has been constant for years since renovation and they were sliding nicely then) can anyone come up it any other ideas? By the way, I'm going to Orlando and Titan Motorsports later this year, so should I feel rich, does anyone know how large brakes the 18" TTE/Lexus wheels will take? (I will probably avoid this, as non-stock brakes are illegal in dk) Thanks!

Strange. Might have something to do with tire choice but my 245 on 8J's up front shouldn't be an issue. People can just try to disconnect and if that is good by then, then all is good. If they think it is to heavy, do the mod. It is cheap both in time and money, and in my mind one of the best in "£ to gain" factor, so I definately reccomend it. A 10ohm and a potentionmeter or maybe a variable 50w resistor should be a simple thing to add to the interior. At least in theory. If you want to do that, it would be a hassle to go "my way" regarding the harness in the engine bay. In that case, I would suggest cutting into the harness next to the PPS ECU. With my size of hands and very limited qualifications with a soldering iron, that would just result in me never getting it done, as it is next to impossible getting in there.

I have, but it was quite a long time ago. It was VERY heavy in comparison. When up to speed, it might be usable (or not) but in slow city driving, it would be unusable. The guy from the US forum, tried a 10 ohm resistor, which resulted in heavier steering than the 8 ohm. I have not tried 10, as 8 feels very good to me. As another person indicated, it would be possible to ad a variable resistor and even have a dial somewhere to shift between weighting. I choose not to, to avoid further wiring laying around the car but I definately see the point of having very light steering when parking or so and very heavy when going on track. For now though, the 8 ohm works very very well for me.

Ok, so in continuation of my previous description, here is a bit more info: The point of the mod is to give more weight to the supras steering , even resulting in more of a feed back feeling. Adding a resistor in between the PPS ECU (located to the left of the lower glove compartment, which needs to be removed if you want to add the resistor there) and the PPS solnoid located on the steering rack in the engine compartment. This results in the Power Steering adding less of a helping hand turning the wheels, hence giving a more weighted feel to the steering. I chose to create an extension to the harness, pluging it into the OEM harness in stead of cutting into the original harness. I don't like cutting in that and also the placement of the PPS ECU makes it very hard to work with. Following parts are needed: Resistance, 50w, 8 ohm (I bought mine from RS-components for next to nothing) Regular 12V wire 90980-11002 & 90980-11003 from Toyota Pins to fit the two plugs from Toyota. (Get from an exisiting harness or Toyota garage as they cannot be bought from Toyota) Waterproofing material for wires (liquid gasket, glue, shrink insulation) Tools: [*] Soldering iron [*] Soldering tin First off, the plugs from Toyota comes without the pins in them, and apparently they cannot be purchased, so they need to be taken from an existing harness. If you don't have one lying around, pop by a Toyota garage and ask them to pick some from their inventory of old harnesses. They have the laying around for the same reason. It might be possible to find the pins from third party, but the Toyota ones are made to be water proof, so I would reccomend you go for those. Shouldn't cost more than a six pack or so.. When you have all compontents, it is simply to wire them up as I have done here: Make sure to set the resistor is wired to the wire that will "continue" the limegreen-black striped wire on the original harness: You can find the placement of the plug to the solnoid here (P1. This diagram is for a LHD, so the solnoid will be on the opposite side of the engine): As the wiring diagram shows, the Lg-B (limegreen-black) wire (coming from ECU) will go to pin no. 1 in the plug you bought (that would be 90980-11003) and continue into the resistor and then to pin no 1 on 90980-11003 that again plugs into the harness that sits on the steering rack. I would reccomend to use some shrink insulation and maybe some liquid gasket or glue to make sure all soldering is waterproof. There wont come much spray up there, but better safe than sorry. When you have it all soldered and insulated, simply click in into the harness as described. When you add the 10" or so of extra wire you just created, make sure to fasten it somehow (I folded and fastened it to the existing harness). If not, it wire might be caught on the steering column, and you dont want that. Go take a drive! If any more questions, let me know and I will do my best to answer

I'll happily post up more info on the mod. However, I'm at the nürburgring right now with a slow internet connection. I'll do all I can on Sunday. To shortly reply, it cannot be compared to just plugging out the connectors, as that is intensely more weight to work with, but it might give you an idea of it, if you get a bit up to speed. Without PAS, the supra is impossible at a standstill to low speed. I can't vouch for other possible solutions with the same possible result, as I have no real in depth now ledge of the type of signal in the system or the result of different watt ratings of resistors. In the mean time, here is the original thread from supraforums: http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?663406-HOW-TO-reduce-Power-Steering-Assist& Remember, in stead of cutting in the wire harness, I created a small addition to the harness to plug directly into the plug on the steering rack. Let me know if further documentation is needed

Hi Just wanted to share a mod I just did the other day, after having stumbled across it a long time ago on supraforums. Now, I've modified my supra towards what I thought it would have been, had it not been developed to be able to be a runaround/DD/shopping/ show off car for all minds if people. In short making it a bit more focused, but with a heavy lean in OEM pars. So TRD brakes, pedals, anti roll bars, CW suspension, new OEM suspension arms all round, repo holstered OMP comfort sports seats, strut braces and so on. I've always wanted for a bit more feel in the otherwise direct steering, but haven't really thought it possible besides the suspension and wheel upgrades. So I settled for working on less assist from the PAS system. I thought that would be a nice addition, giving a more modern and less compromised feeling to the car. As it turns out, it more than payed off. After having installed an 8 ohm, 50 watt resistance between the PAS ECU and the solenoid in e engine bay, I now have a more weighted steering, but also seem to be having a lot more feedback from the road, possible due the less "obstruction" due to the aid of the PAS. If anyone is interested in doing this, I can give more specific details, but in short I found two ways of doing it, one is simply to solder the 8 ohm (or 10, if you want even less intrusion from PAS) 50w resistor in in the limegreen wire with a black line going from the PAS ECU. This I found rather difficult to get to, even if you can follow the wire to the nearby junction point. Also, I don't like cutting in the factory harness. I found it way easier to buy the two plugs from Mr. T (90980-11002 & 90980-11003), getting the pins from an old wire harness and then soldering in the resistor between the two. These two plugs the fit directly in where the signal goes to/from the steering rack in the engine bay below the heat shield of the turbos. Click, and take a drive. That's it. Only thing is that I would recommend that you do some nice soldering and waterproof the soldering as it will sit close to the ground and possible spray. I really do recommend this to everyone who doesn't require little-finger light steering but want some actual feel. I only need to test this on track, but that will have to wait for next season

Yeah, not top mount. I've even replaced it to be sure and then retorqued the entire LHS suspension. So I can only think of the rack or subframe. But I have loosened and tightend the subframe bolts one by one...

Any chance it could be the bushes for the steering rack, that gives a bit, as I only have it when there is a twisting motion from tyres turning at low speed?

Thanks guys. Ill check it out

I smell a destinct gasoline smell when I open my door after the car has been standing for some hours or days. Only place I can think of is the tank, but everything looks dry down around the pump sink app except for some thick goo that probably is some under sealant. Also, there is no gas smell at all down there. Any idea of where else it can come from? Any fuel line I don't know about that might be able to let anything into the heater system from the engine bay, though it sounds kind of far fetched. I just can't think of anything except the tank itself...

I did not place the SLD myself, when I had it behind the speedo. I had someone do that so I don't remember. I only removed it and respliced things again. However, I do remember him being baffled about why he has supposed to cut a wire that was not supposed to be connected to anything else. That corresponds with what you can read here: http://homepage.ntlworld.com/peter.betts/supra/TechTips/speedo.htm Right now I have a SLD by the engine ECU in the passengers footwell. That is placed on the pink wire going from the main ECU. Plug E10, pin 2: Should you go for the placement behind the speedo, bear in mind that you will affect all systems, depending on how you go about it. Power steering and so on. The article linked to above describes the relationship between most of them quite good. However, it does not help me, as I don't know where to get a converter box that will send mph 5/8 signal to my cruise ECU..

To my knowledge, the EU version at least, is limited to 250 kph (might be more on the speedo). I don't think the cruise is either, or might be at 180 kph, but that is fine by me. However it is the way the signal goes to the box, that might pose the problem. A J-spec cruise ECU can be tricked by sending it the 5/8 signal of MPH relation to KPH, but doing that, and keeping the rest of the car KPH is a bit of a challenge. TRL Performance once did a box that could do this, but I've got nooo clue if one of those are possible to find.

As you might have seen elsewhere, I'm working on the same issue. You can add an sld to the pink wire from the odo, but that will affect the active spoiler so it won't go down until 145 kph and retract again when dipping under 120. Annoying.. One solution might be to replace the J-spec cruise ECU with a uk or eu. But I'm not certain that the uk ecu will work as a cruise de-limiter when you are running kph.. Also, getting to and replacing the ecu is yet another problem. You need to take the dash apart and have hands the size of a two year old to get in there.

I was wondering the same as I do have an sld connected to my ECU and that only affect that, so the engine ecu must be later in the speed signal chain.

Looked at one if those replacement ecu's some time ago. However, running bpu (an with the raised rpm of them), I would not be too happy about driving about Europe and maybe not be able to get premium fuel. Regarding the Lexus ecu, it is a very hard place to work on moving pins, as the placement is behind and below the speedo. Also, would prefer to only having to cut a single wire or so. Must be able to get a replacement ecu. However, I'm wondering if a uk ecu would work as I'm running kph?..

Thanks guys. Keep it coming if anyone should know the whereabouts of an ecu..

That is correct.. Can I have yours? I haven't been able to find any..

I mean; without if affecting the entire "chain" of speed signal? I've tried and tried but it keeps interfering with my active spoiler. I've tried several placements of the SLD. I already have a SLD at the engine ECU to de-limit the top speed. That works perfect. But trying to de-limit the cruise by adding another one doesn't seem to work out. When I place it hight up the speed signal "chain" (I've tried a IF1 (or was it IF2) junction point and just next to the Cruise ECU but in both situations if messed with the active spoiler.. Any thoughts?

Sorry. Disregard. Found it. Was just looking for something bigger. Haaaaaard to get any soldering done in there...

I've already searched and found the attached diagram of where it is supposed to be, but I can't spot it. Does anyone have a picture of the location? I've also attached a pic of the location, but I see no ecu. My car is a J-spec and the pic is from behind the removed glove box towards the left side if the car

Thanks. I agree. Must be the way forward. I replaced everything last year. New OEM suspensionarms and all. I will try to tighten everything again. I'm sure there is no play in anything but re-torqing would be worth a try. I've also had a sound like this one from the rear for years. It shortly dissapeared when everything was replaced but re-appeard. Really annoying.