bodilx6

Depends on the weight. It will probably be either 30£ or 50£. I would have to weigh them. Can do that in the weekend. Mileage is 55.000 miles. They have been lying unused in the dry for 4 years now.

Pre facelift

fully working 100£ plus shipment from Denmark

Left panel sold Handbrake sold Ashtray sold remaining panels: right top (odomoter) Speedocluster surround All pre facelift dash panels. All in good condition. No major scratches or anything. Will get better pics soon. 20£ each + shipment from Denmark. This is probably 25£.

Koni dampers has run 3 years or so. Three manual settings for firmness. Two settings for height. 150£ + shipment (50£)from Denmark. Cobra Springs. 1.25" drop or so. 50£ + shipment (50£) from Denmark Toyota/Bilstein dampers, OEM. 100£ plus shipment (50£)

PM'ed and provisionally sold

I've got one available as well. Same price plus shipment from Denmark (guessing 5£ or so)

Did this get sold? Do you have any pics? Which brand?

Got one of those. Only ever managed to fit it on my peogout 206 as there is plenty of room . Really good tool though, if it can get in there. As Chris describes, it can be done from below where there is a small "access plate" you can remove that makes it a tiny bit easier to get to. I've just relocated it when I installed an oil cooler. That helped. Somewhat ;-)

It's very hard to get a proper tool in there. Even worse if you got a sandwich plate mounted. If you can't get it out by hand (I used to remove the battery and could just reach it then with my right hand from above), I would suggest to push a screw driver through the filter and then turn it.

Best placement would be around the back seat area as low and towards the centre as possible. Moving the battery from extreme front to extreme read won't help much from a dynamics perspective.

I have requested a price and are ordering at some point together with some other stuff. However, they quoted me roughly 80£ here in DK. I'm about to ask for a quote from the US including some other stuff to see if that will save me anything. Here are the part numbers for the buttons : (all of them start with 55905-) OFF: 14320 AUTO: 14330 RR-DEF: 14340 A/C: 14350 FACE: 14360 DEF: 14370 REC/FRC: 14220 B/L: 14250 FOOT: 14260 F/D: 14270 TEMP: 14300 BLOW: 14310

I've got a knock/pop sound as well. But that is from the rear suspension and has been with the car since I got it 5 years ago through 3 types of damper/spring configurations.. More prone in the wet.. Go figure.. I don't drive it in the wet anymore and have given up figuring it out as it cannot be reproduced deliberatly..

I've got a shot at this: Is it from the rear brakes? If so, I'm almost certain that it is due to the brake shoes in the parking brake catching the spring inside the brake housing. You've got two "U"-shaped metal thingy's which holds a spring used to keep the shoes away from the center part of the rear brake disc. This tend to bend over time, thereby catching something on the inside of the brake disc/bare shoe housing. You can easily check this by unbolting the wheel and rotating it. It's also an easy fix if you can get the disc off. If they are the reason, you can just bend them back into shape and reinsert them. Might be a bit fiddlely but easy none the less.

I was thinking more or less the same thing. What tyres are light though? I have had a hard time finding weight of tyres from manufactures, especially in "our" sizes..

I've always gode with 120-130nm. That feels suprisingly easy to both apply and get off. My experience and from what I've heard is that its more important that alle nuts are tightned with the same torque than how much torque (within reason of cause). Get that torque wrench!

I've gotten this done (in Sweden though). Might give you an idea of the costs. They are trimmed in leather and alcantara with contrast and diamon stitching: Price was £1000 http://idisk.me.com/stefanbovien/public/seats.jpg

I would like to ID my fuel pump. I got it installed when I bought the car 5 years ago as an upgrade to a stock j-spec as I was going BPU. Now I'm making sure all my mods are top quality, i would like to check the fuel pump as well. I quess i'll just yank out the spare and unscrew the bolts to the fuel tank, but then what? And what to look for?

SWEEEEET!!!! Defo gonna try that out.. - like the car too :-) Just a question to the generator: You set the frequency with one dial to 80-90hz and you set the amplitude with the other? When doing that initial dial in, would you just wire the thing up, switch it on and then dial on both of them untill you see a reaction on the spoiler? No risk of hurting anything wile doing that?

A quick and easy fix for rust on brake disk are just to emerge them in some vinegar. That removes rust quite quickly... No need to wear your discs on it

Here is a few pics: http://idisk.me.com/stefanbovien/public/rearseat1.jpg http://idisk.me.com/stefanbovien/public/rearseat2.jpg http://idisk.me.com/stefanbovien/public/rearseat3.jpg Taken in my parking basement. Let me know if you need better pics, as I'm taking pics of my new seats anyway one of these days.

Most of the stuff said in the long post is not based on realistic measures or theories. It is more or less personal thoughts, nicely backed up with calculations though, but that does not make it true. As stated above, ducting is important. The fact is that it is even more important than stated. The primary thing about ducting is to direct and to control the airspeed of the ducted air before and after it has passed through the IC. A lot of boffin calculations go into what speed is the best for air to cool the fins (actually the other way around..) and the result is, as can be seen with the stock IC, that you have a small opening/diffuser directing air with the least possible drag, opening up to a wider area slowing down the air to (also due to high pressure in front of IC) pass through the IC cooling it then the nozzle after the IC speeds up the air again for it not to result in unnessesary drag when it rejoins the airstream yet again. Next there is a lot of missed focus on pressure zones around the IC. Side mounted we have a natural low pressure zone in the wheel arch "sucking" the air through. Front mount will have to deal with a high pressure zone in front of the radiator as well as it will reduce the efficiency of said radiator. Another thing is how the air flows when the car is at a yaw state. This is probably not that relevant in street driving though ;-) These are (shortly) the main points to extract the optimal from you heat exchanger. Most of these things are not done properly with an FMIC on a supra. Even with most of the aftermarked front bumpers. Their design is rarely based on real world research and is more a "bling" thing. This is also what most people want, so all is well. However, if you want to stick with to optimal design regarding function, Toyota usually did their research quite well. Regarding the OP's thoughts, they are good. I would love to see some real info on that. I would think the long piping needed would result in some negative side effects in relation to turbos and throttle response but hey, go for it ;-)

Defo will make a difference to the performance. In a not so desirerable way. If you just cruise up and down Main Street, it will probably give you the bling you might be looking for. But if you use your car and maybe trackday it a bit, stay away from it. Stick with a max of 18" and don't go wider than nessesary and stay as close to OEM offset to keep the suspension (as mentioned above; designed around 17") working optimally.

As per above. It would be almost disgracefull to dump the OEM Recaros. They are quite sought after. I would definatly get them retrimmed with leather and alcantara centres. Both look nice and much better on a hot summer day. Also, I think you will notice quite a difference in lack of support by "downgrading" to standard seats.

You need to find out the Forward Protrusion of the wheels. That is the distance from the hub contact point to the inside of the spokes. It should be greater than 39.1 mm (at the smallest point) to clear the brakes.