bodilx6

SOLD

bump

The cut trim is replaceable, as I have the original parts. It’s trim around the back seats. Everything in the cabin except for wheel and seats is replaceable with the original parts or new parts that I have available. For example the air vent and a few other bits. So nothing of what you sharply spot should pose an issue to return to stock in a few minutes.

Dash is all panels. Also steering wheel (MR2/Rav4. Close to TRD, as I did not like to color those came in), gear knob. Also some other interior trim (some cut for the rear strut brace, but kept original trim). Mats, radio w/ under seat woofer to replace the shitty OEM amp and woofer. Speakers are also replace, as all JDM speakers are always broken for some reason. It's just a system as would have been OEM. No bass oomph-ooomph system. Just nice and tidy. By the way, TRD pedals has been mounted on the existing (bolt on), to tighten the space between brake and gas pedal for heel and toe to be easier. It has had the "black tar", if you mean a thorough underbody treatment. This I deemed necessary, as the first two years it was parked outside, and the next 8 it was parked in a dry, but cold (no freeze though) parking basement. I would not risk any rust. The last 3 years is has been in a heated and dry garage, so its been some years since its treatment (quite few actually), so its nice and dry. Not sticky and nasty (as my current car is. Damn I forgot how nasty that stuff is when its recent..) Pics: [ATTACH=CONFIG]224852[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]224853[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]224854[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]224855[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]224856[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]224857[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]224858[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]224859[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]224860[/ATTACH]

Strut and Sway bars. I've had discs and pads, but they sucked. 120.000 miles

Yup, its also advertised here. The car is at a dealer, who is supposed to handle the sale, buuuut I think he needs a helping hand. So just tested it out here as well as Supraforums THanks!

Thanks for the info. It is and has been my car since import. Edited the ad to reflect that and mileage. An yes, as stated, it is very special. Through the years, I have been quite involved with the local Supra community here in DK. Lots of JDM has been imported here so we took quite a growth in members in our club in the 00'es. Last few years, the car has not seen too much service, and I have followed the sales of Supras in the EU. Both through my active club years and in the last few years, I have yet to see an example of a car in this state and with all the expensive bits swapped for new. So yes, it is very special. I have only seen a few others on Mobile.de and in the US in comparable state (and granted, with a lot less miles) but they have been in the 50-80.000$ range.

1993, 6 speed, original, RHD supra in absolutely mint condition. Gotta be on of the best kept Supras around. Has been featured in several magazines for the reason of this as well as well as being in original state (save the seats, exhaust and a few other OEM bits) Among many supras I've come across in my 20 years of Supra ownership, this is definately the best kept & maintained of all. Almost all wear parts as been replaced by new OEM parts. This is both interior, exterior and mechanical. The list is long. Examples: Suspension arms, springs, dampers, dash, carpets bushes and gaskets. The car has only been stored in dry garages and has no rust what so ever. Anti rust proofing has still been done. I've had the car for 10+ years since I imported from Japan. I imported it i with 50.000 miles on it and it now has 120.000. Original JDM equipment as stickers, flare, emergency kit is still in car. All replaced parts are either Toyota, TRD or OEM manufactures like TTE (wheels). Only non-toyota related parts (due to Toyota not having up-to-date replacements) are seats (OMP, custom retrim to fit theme of car), exhaust, oil cooler and original placement intercooler (hand build alu version). The engine is 100% original, valve stem seals replaced. Compression test is spot on. Cambelt replaced 2-3 years back with around of 10.000 kms on it. Fuel pump is EU spec, as are brakes. Cruise control ECU replaced by UK part due to JDM restrictions of 70 mph. Intercooler has much higher flow and performance to keep intake temperatures as low as possible. Hand build and sourced by Chris Wilson (UK specialist). Suspension is OEM Bilsteins (revalved by Chris Wilson), springs are also Chris Wilson parts. Original springs are available. Thermostat controlled oil cooler installed as JDM supras have an issue with oil temperature at higher motorway speeds. The car comes is a lot of new parts (interior panels, V160 oil, ignition coils o.a.). Absolutely nothing needs replacement or fixing now except for a single gasket on the prop shaft, which can leave a single drop of oil after a few weeks. Cars like this is only going up in value. Selling due to space. Price £25.500 Car is in Denmark. [ATTACH=CONFIG]224839[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]224840[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]224841[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]224842[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]224843[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]224844[/ATTACH]

Does the stock engine management have other safety measures than fuel cut at high boost? As written earlier I have what seems like a fuel cut at high boost, but measuring at my FCD, it reads a constant high of 4,017 volts, which is below if the 4,3 volts I know of results in fuel cut. Now, can it be a bad fuel pump? Does the engine management have a safety measure of a low AFR or something and cut of fuel? Or anything like that?

Thanks for the alternative input. Much appreciated. I just had an indication of going over 1 bar for quite more than the 3 sec, but then hit the fuel cut again. It could be down to temp differences and boost pressure since I experienced it quite different than the other day, but I get the feeling that it is electrical or something way different, which is where your theory comes in. I will measure voltage on the signal wire to the FCD next and then go after proving/dismissing your theory. Thanks again Other insight would still be highly appreciated

I was thinking that as well at some point. I changed from a walbro to a (used) EU spec Bosch 2 years back. Can you elaborate?

A non-brand. But has been working for the last 9 years and just installed a new to be sure. I'm thinking the voltage to the FCD from the pressure sensor is bad.

Nothing?

So, all of a sudden I experience what seems very much like fuel cut in fifth and sixt gear only after a few seconds over 1 bar (j-spec, BPU). My FCD has been working for 7-8 years and there have been no messing around with the wireing in the passenger footwell. Checking out the solderings, all looked well, but I still got me a same brand FCD and replaced. Cut the wires and made new solderings on the signal cable, reused the 5v and '0'. Same result. All solderings look very nice and should be working nicely. Any ideas of what is going on?? Can ther be any other reason for this? It is not the speed limiter, as I can easily cruise past that and that is also much more violent to my recollection.. Really need this working as I'm going to the ring in 10 days time.. :-/