dini_the_owl

im an av engineer and we always unicol brackets for our plasma/lcd brackets, i can probably beat that price through work, all unicol ones are made for each machine so fitment is perfect and they hold a ton of weight.they are very close fit to the wall and cannot swivel or lower as they are a fixed bracket unless you plan to hang it from the ceiling on a pole. fixed unicol is definately the best option. if you want me to price one up drop me a pm with your make,model and size etc.

i think so too colin look at your spelling:p

i didnt really notice any difference on my original jspec brakes, but its gonna save me buying those silly rubber hoses that split after a year

i have 2 spare

i should be able to help out,if you wanna try some bits

you may well not get an error code for this type of issue!

im quite sure n/a ones are different as i have an n/a one here you could try,its definately worth a look just to check part numbers etc, its a bit of a ballache to get to but you could always do the bypass line if its knackerd though, cant find any pics at the mo to show you but daryl knows where its situated, its somewhere to start. p.s have you changed your filter?

the pumps are the same! just that you need the union and oring fitting to the n/a pump, and you will need a stock tt res which feeds the pump. n/a one sits directly on top of the pump, tt one sits on the passenger side of the bay.

its about right mate,by the way posted your fcd off today bud

I havent read every thread here but are you using the stock fuel pump Pulsation dampener attached to your block? where have you mounted the fpr? one things for certain, it shouldnt get too hot to touch???? if your filter is cold and fpr is hot next thing in line back is the fuel dampener.

it wont be your map sensor, at 1.2 bar your over the limit anyway,and it wont jerk if its out of range on your map sensor, probably hit fuel cut which is why you went lean? an emanage will do for tuning your fuel,fuelcut and they do a 3bar pressure sensor for that unit.probably cheapest route to go....IMO

as above yes it does, plenty of w58 and r154 soarers out there.

i was gutted to find the jspec tt 250 quid cheaper than the jspec n/a at the time was paying 800 quid on an n/a,now all mods declared with 4 points and its now 460 fully comp with a plan, but im 34 with 8 years n/c.

do it all......go on......be a devil

interesting , i have the m40 version wich has two jammers at the rear too so getting caught from behind is impossible. my last sppeding fine was two years ago and got caught by an unmarked car decelarating off a dual carrageway @ 99.6mph, so lucky to escape a ban, instead 4 points and 120 quid fine. forgot what they called it but yep your right they just timed my car at two points on the slip road. unfortunately this you cannot stop even with the latest technology. i remember now it was called "vascar"

you may well be corect, not that i speed really just wanted to know if i can get away with them too! would be interesting to know if it would block the ir a night though

mine are well hidden under the bumpers so they will not be seen by anyone,infact front 2are sitting infront of the alloy crash bar behind the bumper...hehe "No it's not, average speed cameras work by a computer reading your numberplate at each camera. They know how far apart the cameras are, so use the time between each numberplate being recorded at each camera to work out your speed. Laser detection works by bouncing a laser off your car and using the time it takes to bounce back to the gun to work out the distance to the target." Im not sure whether your comment is actually correct as the blinder does go off when im approaching one but i dont accept the alarm so does it know im there or not as nothing will be going back to the camera to say anything is there. also if you look at the average cameras they normally have two guns on them, these i think are the ir detectors.

i had this on my n/a once and it turned out to be the small black coil from the distributor, infact i may have my replaced one still here somewhere which you could try and illiminate that anyway? must have been braking down somehow, and i went through all the obvious things before i found the bugger!

dont have an pics as its been packaged up for 6months or so but its in good nick,typial polished stainless with a few marks on the underside of the lip,hardly noticible when fitted. As said though will require mating with a custom back piece which suited me fine as some exhausts hang too low when you can get a much tighter fit to the rear subframe, my friend did me the back pice for 120 quid in 63mm stainless.

personally i think there crackin units,they still warn you like a detector but dosent let the fuzz get a signal untill the units alarm has been accepted, its still dodgy if you dont accept it as there units get a error code, wonder if they cover average speed cameras as well, as the technology is very similar?

Just wondered if anyone out there has got or has used the Blinder M25 or M40 laser jammer?

water evaporation from exhaust most cars do it in this weather started mine today for 1st time in a week and it did the same!

very good n/a radiator for sale with cap, perfect condition and no leaks/cracks.

stillen all the way

nur spec s back box for sale here. was used for a period of time and is not mint although i wouldnt say it is bad,just a few small scuffs on the bottom lip etc. please note it does not include the original pipe which mates with the stock tt/na it has been cut at the back of the box so some fabrication will be required to fit. mine had 63mm pipe up to the box. dont know if anyone has need for this but make me an offer if its any help to you.