turnerjr

recent trip home to my native dartmoor

Alright kev, hows things? I heard it before I saw it, you instantly know its a supra, so I only caught a quick glimpse of the rear end. I’m down until 9th August. How about you?

I think he said he’s working in the parts department for an agriculture company. Just fancied a change and something a bit closer to home. He’s suggested giving mike a call at fish brothers toyota in swindon. I’ve dealt with Mike before and he’s a top bloke (think he used to work with steve at Inchcape).

Spotted a red supra with silver 5 spokes driving along the sea front in sidmouth, anyones on here?

Steve Manley has left toyota oxford now unfortunately Shame really as he is a top bloke and has helped me loads in the 16 years Ive known him. I’m sure he’s helped countless other members on here, he will be greatly missed.

yes, its standard 040

Not an RZ, but its white and a supra

Hello buddy, are these still available? I messaged you a few weeks ago but had no response?

Unfortunately I never got to the bottom of this, its still very temperamental. I found the harder I drove my car, the hotter the heaters would get, but this now doesnt always seems to work. The generally just blow cold air, warm at best. I’m pretty convinced its the water valve that is faulty. I’m guessing it’s some sort of gate that closes when the temp is turned down to stop hot water flowing through the matrix and opens when you increase the temperature to allow the hot water to flow into the matrix. I was going to contact chris wilson about the possibility of getting new matrix’s made, but as toyota have discontinued the water valve and you need to strip the dash out to change both items, I decided I couldn’t be bothered. Ideally I’d need to get hold of a second hand water valve so I can look at its operation and see if my theory is a possibility, and if so could a faulty unit be successfully repaired. Unfortunately they are hard to come by and the only one I could find was some joker on ebay asking £1000+postage for the complete heater assembly!

Hi Tom, Ive got 18” workmeister s1r’s fitted to my car. not sure on ksports but Ive got loads of clearance on my uk brakes. All the best, John

After failing miserably to flush my matrix, I decided to use scooters method to do it properly. I disconnected both pipes at the back of the head and flushed the system through with cold water to remove any coolant. I then connected a piece of clear pipe to each matrix outlet. I put a funnel on the out hose (which was only warmish with the engine running) and poured cold water into it to see if gravity would work instead of forcing water through. Water came out the other hose and into a bucket so I decided it couldnt be that blocked. I then poured some hot water into the outlet (not far off boiling so probably about 70degree centigrade) to make sure my set up and hose would take the heat before adding the holts speedflush. It worked fine with no leaks. I added half a bottle of speedflush to a 2 litre bottle of very hot water, and with the ignition on and heaters on max heat, I poured the solution in until it was gone. Water by this point was trickling into the bucket. I left this for 10 minutes then turned the ignition off so I wouldnt kill my battery. I then left this for an hour with the solution in the matrix. I then connected the hose pipe up to the outlet and flushed the system. I left the hosepipe running for about 10 minutes with the ignition on. some crude came out, almost looked like bits of sand, there was probably only about a table spoons full in the bottom of the bucket. I was expecting more to be honest. I decided to do the same again, but in reverse, so boiled the kettle and added the remaining half a bottle of speedflush to the boiling water and poured into the inlet for the matrix instead of the outlet which I did originally. Again I left this for 10 minutes with the heater on, then left it to sit for an hour with the heater off. Instead of flushing through with cold water, I decided to run a kettle full of boiling water down the outlet pipe in the hope that I could push any crude back out in the opposite direction. I did this with 2 full kettles of pure boiled water. I probably got about the same amount of crud out again. I then flushed the matrix for 10 minutes in both directions with the hose pipe connected. I then ran coolant into the outlet pipe until coolant ran out of the inlet pipe to force out any trapped air. I disconnected the clear hose and connected the normal pipes back up, topped up with coolant at the radiator and jacked it in the air. After idling for 10 minutes both the inlet and outlet pipes were very hot and the heaters were very hot! success!!! I took it for a spin and the heaters were ridiculously hot, like they used to be. I was very happy! One final test, put the aircon on and turn the temp down. This also worked fine. When I turned it back up however, the heaters only made it to luke warm at best. I was very unimpressed!!! I got back home, checked the outlet pipe, which was warm again. I turned the heaters off all together and then put my hand on the outlet pipe. I could feel the temperature rise to the point I couldnt touch it anymore. I turned the heaters back on, which produced warm air, and the outlet pipe returned to being warm. With the engine off I can hear the mechanism working when you adjust the temperature. I disconnected the rod again and you can move it backwards and forwards freely. I really dont know what to do now!!!

hanks scooter. I checked out your thread on cleaning the matrix originally which gave me the inspiration to have a go at flushing mine. As I seemed to have good flow through the matrix I didnt bother flushing it like you did, but just did the whole system as I was sure the thermostat was the main issue. I will now follow your guidance with the holts stuff (think wynns is the same as its non acidic) and gravity and refill the matrix first and see what effect that has. Yes swampy, the heater control flap seems to work as I can feel a difference between the hot and cold setting when it is turned. The directional flaps also work so I can divert air to the demister, feet etc

Hi scooter, thanks for the input. You have thrown some good ideas in there. I will check the air diversion in the morning. I still feel like the matrix is blocked somehow. I never thought of the idea that coolant could still flow even if the matrix was blocked. It just seems odd to me that the heater has always worked fine, and the system has been ran on the proper coolant for so long, why has it suddenly become blocked now when the rest of the system looks so clean. If there was an air lock, would I get hotter air at higher revs and cooler air at low revs? Thanks for the reply harry. I have tried the seperate matrix flush and have good flow in both directions. I will give your method of using washing up liquid a try though and see if that shifts anything

Good evening all, I have a strange heater issue that I’m hoping someone can shed some light on. I apologise for the length of this but I think its important I list every detail as Ive been very methodical with this and still failed miserably! lol. Its a 1995 uk spec which Ive owned for about 15 years. Its been maintained regardless of cost, and has had regular coolant changes. Cam belt service is up to date and I always ask for the water pump to be changed at the same time. Ive only ever used toyota red long life coolant in it. I noticed a few months ago that the heaters were not getting hot, unless I went for a really hard drive, and when I backed off and took it steady, they went back to being cold. The heaters always used to get red hot. I checked the bottom rad hose which was cold, top hose was hot, one of the heater matrix hoses was hot, the other cold. There was no loss of coolant and no overheating, temp gauge was always at half way. I did some research with the search function and decided to follow a members guide of flushing the heater matrix. I couldnt remember when the thermostat was last changed so I ordered a new one. I striped the car down and drained the coolant. I disconnected the pipework for the matrix by the rear of the cam cover and connected up two pieces of garden hose to the matrix. I put the heaters on hot with the ignition on, and flushed it backwards and forwards several times with a hosepipe. The water was pretty clean both ways, and I had a good flow of water in both directions, similar to the flow the hosepipe produces. I removed the thermostat, but fitted the housing and bottom hose back on, (not connected to the rad) and flushed water through both flexi hoses at the back of the engine that I had disconnected from the matrix. The water that came out the bottom hose was also pretty clean. I took the top hose off and flushed this through aswell, and the radiator. Again, these were pretty clean. I connected everything back up, filled with water, and put some wynns coolant flush in, then jacked the car up as high as I could, started it up, let it run for 10 minutes with the heaters on hot, gave all the pipes a good squeeze, and put the rad cap on. I left the car idling for about 30 minutes, I couldnt drive it as its not taxed and I had the front end stripped to replace the bonnet catches. The heaters werent red hot, but were an improvement and I hadnt fitted a thermostat so thought this might have had something to do with it. I turned the car off and drained the system down again, (which was pretty clean) and flushed everything through with the hose to get all the rad flush out. I dropped the car to the floor and parked it facing downhill to make sure everything had drained out. While the coolant was draining I decided to check the thermostat with some boiling water. The old thermostat looked like it had some rubber or something stuck in it, and when I added it to boiling water, it only opened about 1mm. I tried the new one, and it opened much more. Excellent, I was hopeful a dodgy thermostat was the cause of my heater problems!!!! I connected everything back up, fitted the new thermostat and gasket, and filled with fresh coolant. I started the car, jacked it up and ran for 10 minutes with the heaters on hot. I topped the overflow tank up, gave all the pipes a good squeeze, then put the rad cap back on. The heaters were still cold, but the temp gauge was on half way which it normally is, so I dropped the car down, shut the bonnet and took it for a quick spin. The heaters are an improvement but dont feel like they’d melt your face like they used to. The heater matrix hose closest to the bulkhead is red hot, the other is quite hot. Top rad hose is red hot, bottom one is quite warm. Ive checked the arm in the passenger footwell and disconnected it so I can move it manually. I can feel a difference in the temperature when this is moved forwards or backwards, so I guess whatever the rod is connected to is working. Does anyone have any ideas what the problem could be please, before I loose my marbles?

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