
as5606
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Everything posted by as5606
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Don't want to over complicate matters and you need to check all the obvious stuff first but I had this when I was running too lean on fuel when on a long journey. Car was bubbling and the overflow pipe was spurting. Turned up the fuel on the S-AFC and all was well.
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Cheers mate. Cheapest I have found is 75+vat plus £10 delivery. Maybe its the same guy. http://www.supras.co.uk/resources/parts.htm Funnily enough its a celica breakers but as long as they have one. 3 month guarentee as well. Engineer has now confirmed it is knackered and will charge £60-£80 (+vat I spose) to fit it. Does this sound about right? That may include a new belt as well (but maybe not - neighbour is negotiating with them on my drive as I'm at work) I must get myself another run around....
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Any ideas if my Jspec one can be replaced with a UK one. Toyota dealer may be my only hope if I can't find a SH one.
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Thanks guys. How quickly can you get me one assuming it can't be fixed by this garage. This is my only car you see so need it back on the road ASAP. Any idea on cost of one SH.
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Was reversing the car out of the garage this morning and noticed a funny noise when I turned the steering wheel. Then......It stalled and the power steering motor has seized. The car will start.....Just, but it burns the rubber belt so thats my poor soop stranded. Managed to borrow a neighbours car to get to work and he is towing it to a garage to be looked at. Anyone any ideas on price for a new one or can they be fixed / reconditioned. First problem I've ever had with it.
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Thorin. Are you saying that a jspec will run higher boost levels with replacement cats than a UK spec and that a UK spec will need a boost controller to increase to 1.2-1.3bar like a j-spec will produce automatically. If this is so, why is that. Is it because of the different turbos or manifold?
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Hi, As far as I understand it, a boost controller will not be much use unless when you remove the cat, it is not producing enough boost on its own accord without the restriction it once had. Removal of both cats should give you about 1.2-1.3 bar which is maximum safe limits anyway. A boost guage will not be able to reduce this. A FCD is a must after about 1.1 bar anyway so all you need is a FCD and a boost guage to indicate your boost and ensure that you can see it is not overboosing. I may be wrong though
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Why not sell it and put the £1500 on top of the sale price to get a Twin Turbo. That's what i'd do IMHO
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I am in a similar position to you with low boost even though I have a CW pipe and HKS front pipe (with FCD). (Chris - not spoken to you yet about this but want to finalise testing before I do) I run about 0.9bar most of the time although i haven't really taken it on a major test run yet (trying different temps etc). I was hoping for at least 1.2 on a cool day. CW installed the Cat removal pipes and the boost pipes ready for me to install a guage in the clock mount which is what I have done with no problems (apart from this of course). Maybe there is a leak similar to yours. Obviously the piping is correct (coz CW did it) but maybe its loose behind the guage. I will update after further testing
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What does the solar sensor do? and don't just say "senses the sun" like you were going to.....
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Can you buy the stickers to stick onto the brakes like in this picture from Toyota. I have seen aftermarket ones available but am always dubious until I see them on.
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They also do the 97- side lights http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1854685857
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Is it right that the 00' corolla side indicators will fit straight into the wing of the Supra. Has anyone done this? Has anyone tried the euro style lights on EBay.com from ProCarParts http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1854445372 They don't usually go for much more than $30 and shpping is $24. I'm thinking of giving them a try.
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I don't think that it was the brakes because I recently topped this up as it was starting to happen (pads have a few thou left on them). Could be the speedo conversion. I also have a de-limiter fitted (not done by me) and a fule cut defender so I hope that it was not cutting out. I am taking to the Chris Wilson Surgery this weekend for a checkup. Hopefully he can find out the problem.
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Yesterday, I was giving it a bit of welly up a slip road, toying with a BM (as you do) and I noticed the Red Exclaimation mark came on on high boost of the second turbo (1.2Bar). I eased off a bit an it then started to flicker and went off. Worried me slightly since I suppose this is the first real hard push I have given it since all of mods done for BPU (see signiture). Anyone know what the possible cause of this is.
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No probs, nice to see you save some money
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At the back of my Supra Manual that came with the car, the indicators for low brake pads is a ticking noise that should appear around your wheels. Seems odd but that is what it says.
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No bumber removal. Takes about 30 mins to fit. Only small problem is getting the last cable tie tight (need to get in in from behind but I could not find an easy way). Let me know if you have any probs.
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Just to let you know Matt, you were right. Ariel pulled clean out. Cheers for all you help....
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I have silver on silver sup
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I have just installed one that I purchased from GrillTech in the states (e-bay.com). And maybe (just to proove suprastore is expensive), the picture suprastore has is from the grilltech ad on ebay so they are just buying grilltech's gear. By the way, I paid just $39.99 for mine with $20 delivery (only took 3 days). Eay to fit and looks damn fine....(just like in the pic of the link)
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Cheers Mate. I'll check it out tonight. Unfortunatley, i'm in Preston (300 miles away) so won't be bothering you with a visit. Can I assume this ariel will be down by the passenger footwell (where the cars ECU is), or is it near the siren under the bonnet. They have been playing with the ECU on the passenger footwell you see.
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I've tried that. It doesn't chirp after three seconds. I cannot get the thing to make any noise. If I carry on with the programming instructions as per booklet, it just ignores me. Can't program the key fob then. Looks like its a "Take to the dealer to get ripped off" time. Cheers Guys
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Have tried the spare fob and is the same. Not sure how to program the fobs. Not mentioned in the manual anyway. Is it something only an engineer can do?
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I have just had an APexi Super AFC Fuel Controller installed and after it was done, they couldn't start the car because the alarm button wouldn't work. When I arrived I input the valet code and it then started. After you turn off the ignition, the immobiliser cuts in and still no arm/unarm buttons work. Now, each time I want to start the car, you have to enter the valet code. Any ideas what this can be. I have set and unset the valet modes and still the same. It is almost like the fob has lost the code for the alarm. Even programming mode doesn't work because you can't press the fob. The alram is a Concept 300. Could it be because the engineers have unplugged the ECU. They have saif that the battery hasn't been touched and I have tried taking the earth off the battery and putting it back on. Help........