R3DG3CKO ROB

There's a note on mine that says - This page entitles 'R3DG3CKO ROB (9437)' to any discounts available exclusively to members of the mkiv Supra Owners Club. This page is valid until 16-04-18. Why the expiry date?

Goodridge braided lines

if the catches and cables are in a good condition you should be fine. i fitted my carbon bonnet with flush Aero catches shortly after I had it fitted as it flexed and lifted so much more at speed than the stock one ever did. It really gave me a bit of peace of mind and was much sturdier afterwards. (especially after seeing what a failed catch can do to a friend's car) The Aero catches didn't look too bad either but obviously not a great option if you want the car to look stock.

Yeah, doesn't actually look that terrible.

Couldn't find any mention of it on here but I'm sure someone else has mentioned it already? I'm sure I remember there being a supras in movies thread somewhere but I can't find it. Only very briefly about half way through the trailer but I still love seeing the Sup on the big screen (shame about the neons Trailer on IMDB Rob

Hi Guys, I need to get some temporary insurance tomorrow but can't find any companies online that will cover the vehicle! I'm guessing I just need to keep ringing around in the morning but can anyone recommend any companies they've used recently? Rob

It seems that U.S. Supra prices are really high! I've been looking around to see what's available and prices on auto trader and ebay are all starting at around $20,000! Got to stay that the overall standard seems high but I even found a total wreck of an aerotop shell on ebay that's been in a front impact for $4,500! no engine, gb, wheels nothing! Does anyone know any other sites worth looking at?

What was the issue with the brake light wiring in the end? I have a similar problem with the lights warning light but I've just been fitting fog light PCBs so pretty sure it's something to do with the wiring. Rob

Yeah, that's what I thought but they were wired exactly the same I double checked that just in case - I've just swapped the PCBs over to see if it makes a difference and the problem has gone to the other side which would indicate it could possibly be an issue with the PCB rather than the wiring? I'll PM Heckler and see what he thinks.

Hi guys, I've added the rear light PCBs that Heckler sells to turn one of the brake lights into a fog when needed. One side has worked fine but the light I've used as the fog light on the drivers side isn't working as a brake anymore (when the switch is off obviously) It comes on when the lights are on and works as a fog light when the switch is pressed but I'm a bit baffled as to why it's acting differently to the other one. They are both wired up exactly the same and I wondered if anyone who's done this had a similar problem? http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?253183-Rear-Fog-light-PCB/page10

All fixed and the car is now beautifully quiet until I push the loud pedal! got it over the pit at my local garage and the heat shield for the 1st cat was essentially falling apart - so that was removed. Then the mechanic noticed that the bracket supporting the cat mounted on the transmission (I think he said) had corroded at the cat end and had partly sheared off. The edge of this bracket was scraping against the Cat, hence the horrendous squealing of metal on metal! I guess the resonance of the transmission was what was causing the noise only when in drive. Box of chocolates go to my mate in the states who said he had a similar problem with his brothers mx5 but huge thanks to everyone for all the suggestions and advice, I really do love the help and support we get on this forum I'm a much happier boy now and am praying for some sun to get the roof off again before I drive down to pick the future Mrs Rob up from Gatwick on Friday.

Having now gotten my head close to the noise (or as close as I dare with it in gear) it's def coming from under the car not the engine bay and has a metallic edge to the sound so I don't think it's gearbox related. The GB oil levels seem high to me when hot not low but I'm taking it into the garage tomorrow to change the fluid anyway so hopefully they can check that out

Stops when parked and Idling yeah.

Right! Just took it out for a run up the road and managed to get the noise to start just as I could pull over. got the car pointing slightly up hill and pulled the handbrake on leaving the car in D. The god awful noise continued but on my way to open the bonnet I realised it was coming from under the car behind the drivers side wheel arch! I'm no mechanic but it sounds like it's coming from the exhaust? Isn't the first cat around there somewhere? Would explain why it's only happening once the car is warm I guess.

Video of the offending noise - please excuse the reversing beep

lol I was just about to say that, I noticed it says dexron II when I checked the fluid again warm... still seems like there's lots of fluid in it? I bought dex3 in the end as I spoke to FenSport and they recommended dex 3 or 4

Right, just to complicate things further - It doesn't look like it's moved at all (about 12 miles home with loads of squealing as I slow down) assuming I've Tipex'd the right pulley?

found this one on fleabay but would suggest turbo only? - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LEXUS-IS300-GS300-IS-GS-300-TOYOTA-SUPRA-CRANK-SHAFT-CRANKSHAFT-PULLEY-TURBO-NON-/370799497137?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3ASupra&hash=item56555f4fb1 Really wanted to get this sorted by Friday - got to drive to gatwick and back

Cool, gonna try that on the way home... Whifbitz - £200 ish Mr T - £295 Fensport (around the corner) - £90-£100 but they would need to mmake them, which could take 2-3 weeks! I was hoping to get this fixed before Friday as I'm doing a tonne of miles in the car.

Just rang Mr T - the guy I spoke to has never heard of Type II oil! was very confused as he wasn't sure what oil to reccomend for the car as it's an import! I asked what he'd reccomend for a UK spec and he said Dextron 3 or Type T4 (not type IV) The only keep Dextron 3 in drums to do changes and would have to order the Type T4 in - don't know what to do as I've got the car booked in tomorrow. Starting to think the problem sounds a lot like the Crank Pully though so going to do the tipex test on the way home to make sure.

arghhh £200 on Whifbitz! easy to fit though? Is there any way to test it?

Mine looks like it is all the way up the dip stick, what would that indicate? - completely inconsistent with me and the garage thinking that the levels are too low (hence the noise when in gear) Toyota still haven't gotten back to me and I need to get the oil for the morning! Should I ask for the Type II then? All the guy mentioned was that they used type IV for Rav4s and Dextron 3 for everything else Auto related...

I've got a really loud squealing noise coming from the business end of my n/a? nothing when cold - needs a few minutes driving at least to happen only really happens badly when idling - bit of throttle and it goes away put it in park or N and it stops Just changed the Drive belt and that hasn't helped Checked the gear box levels and it's above the three notches (with engine cold) Am still having stiff PAS on start-up but noise seems independent of steering = Baffled Rob

Yeah, started the engine and went through each gear from Park to Launch and back again - checked the levels and there's fluid above the notches on the dip stick. have seen a few people saying it has to be tested when warm - I've got the car booked in tomorrow morning for a GB oil change (not flush) in the hope that it fixes it.

Toyota have just confused me as I've asked for a price on Toyota Type IV gb oil and the guys said that's what they use for Rav 4's? apparently they use Dextron 3 for most autoboxes but that's not listed in the FAQ for the 4spd auto I also just checked the levels and they seem high enough (at cold) do the levels drop when warm as I'm hoping this is the case?