st3ven1

Spin up the rears and see if you leave an "11"(LSD) or a "1"(no LSD) on the road your private driveway.

It is rather confusing in all honesty. Even before the facelift, a GZ was the "top of the range", but often would still have the smaller brakes. Then after the facelift, GZ was dropped and RZ became the "top of the range". The natural assumption would be that the RZ-S is above an RZ but it isn't, although it can be spec'd to almost exactly the same as one, so it's very hard to tell some times. Exactly, glad you are enjoying it, they are awesome. I should know, I've had four.

It's an RZ-S, don't get hung up on it, there's not much difference. The cloth rear seats(unless they have been changed, but not likely), lack of active spoiler(obviously as the front bumper has been changed, but the button isn't there either, again could have been changed for a blank), and missing passengers recaro seat and often an RZ will also have a "carbon" steering wheel. Model differences chart here: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?59334-Supra-Guide-and-Model-Differences-Chart

The biggest laugh about that car is that it only has 30000 miles on it yet the auto selector is worn through. Seriously, what a joke. If that cars done less than 130000 I'd be amazed.

Just FYI, either the previous owner has swapped the OEM recaros out for a drivers recaro seat(not OEM) and a cloth passengers seat or this car is an RZ-S, not an RZ. What kind of steering wheel does it have?

Watched Chef last week, trailer does a good job of 'selling' the movie, was very disappointed considering the cast. Certainly won't watch again. 3.5\10

Get a gauge from a GZ, they had both.

Alternatively, save yourself some hassle and get a TRL VFCC, they aren't made anymore, but if you out up a wanted thread on here someone will have one. They were made by Thor Racing years ago and used to the the 'go to' fuel cut defender. There are guides around on here on how to fit them and diagrams of the wiring involved. Have a search for VFCC and see if it could be the way to go.

Traders pay VAT on any margin(profit) they make from second hand car sales, I appreciate it's not the same as paying 20% VAT of the whole price, but they still pay a bit.

If there were no import supras in the UK, prices would be much the same here for a TT6(£20k+). It's only the import market that brought the prices crashing down.

It is: http://mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?301912-NEW-SUPRA!!1-erm-Toyota-FT-1-Concept

Also someone on Pistonheads has just posted the following: "This very car was up (for a day tops) on autotrader for £6,995 genuine car that just needed a bit of cosmetic external refreshing...and here it is!" I also saw another car on Pistonheads(being careful here), that was up for £6.5k on ebay before it's current(more than double) asking price on Pistonheads. Very F&F.

Worth reading 'wizeprankers' posts on this thread about this his car: http://mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?275173-Paul-brown-cars/page7 Shame he never came back on to back it up, but makes you think.

Or if you have a bottle of juice, it'll fit nicely between the passenger seat and the central arm rest, just beside the passenger belt clip.

Looks like you either red lighted or there was an error in that run tbh, there's no terminal speed either. Wouldn't get too worried about your RT, you can sit there as long as you want and your ET will still be the same 13s even if your RT was 20s. RT only really comes into effect if you are doing handy capped drag racing against a car either significantly faster or slower and they are allowed a head start. Which they don't do at RWYB events. You would declare an average of say 13.6 and someone else 15.6, they would have a 2s head start, but in theory you would finish at the same time, then reaction time comes into play. The three 2.3s 60ft times were your best chance to get into the 12s. Put it this way, taking 0.1 off you 60ft(down to 2.2) time would have seen you in the 12s. Nice win ratio, you must be well please with that. The scooby and the R33 would have been tough to beat off the line.

Glad to see the ankle is healed. I bet that was the longest 9 weeks ever! Drag racing is huge fun(and strangely addictive), but I wouldn't get too caught up in the times, just race the other lane. Did you race anyone else or just the 350Z? With regard to that reaction time, a RT of .007 would have given you a red light on a pro tree like Crails. Or do you mean a RT of .407, which would be be a superb RT(there is a 0.4s delay between the yellow light going off and the Green light coming on) You aren't waiting for the green light to go, you are waiting on the yellow light goings off. Basically, a .407 RT would be a superb bit of timing and not a reaction time as such(however you would still get a green light). The quickest it's physically possible for a human to react is .110 with the median being around .215 Do you have the time slips from Crail? They aren't updated online yet, but you can keep an eye on here and it should come up in the next couple of weeks. Low 13's is a good starting point, were you doing a good burnout before each race? As you say, with a bit of work you'll easily be in the 12's. However the only annoyance would be pulling up next to some of the latest mega hot hatches which can put in consistent times like this: http://www.crailraceway.co.uk/showdrag.php?RID=21&EVDate=2014-03-30 But there's not much skill involved if you have an automatic, 4WD car with launch control. But glad to see you healed and back in the car and enjoying it.

R..

What is it about this car and MOT's. Neil had the exact same issue with the MOT last year, wouldn't surprise me if it was the same garage. Cars looking good though. GTE swap next?

Might be a bit controversial, being from another manufacturer, but how about a set of the Rays that are fitted to the 370Z Nismo edition? They have plenty of concave to them are are very light wheels. Only issue I can see is that they all have Nismo written on one of the spokes. Seem to be the sort of style you are after, I absolutely love these wheels: http://www.ebaymotorsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/2014_nissan_370z_nismo_07.jpg

Thing is, most of them are still for sale. Which IMO only means one thing, that they are too expensive for what they are. You are right when you say people think 1k is cheap for an NA. But with so many examples out there available for between 1-2k, you can see why this is. Gumtree and ebay are the places to look for cheap Supras, and anything decent at this price range doesn't hang about long. Please do bother next time, it's good to have an eye on the market and also may help people who are potentially going to look at the cars.

Looks expensive to me. Why does it have facelift indicators on the front and rear, and what are those seats! Never seen anything like them before. Also the paint pen repair that has been done on the rear hatch is a mess. Silver NA auto's are probably the least desirable of all mkiv Supras.

Hope you got that cheap enough, as it needs plenty of work. I take it you were aware of all these issues when you bought it? The power steering cooler, is a simple enough swap for a new one(or good second hand one). Worth speaking to Keron on here as he should be able to sort you out with most bits you're after.

The recaros were standard on the late facelift RZ's. If you use Google Chrome browser, it automatically prompts you to translate the page.

Now that is lovely, full facelift RZ spec registered in 2002. Proper collectors item. And one of the very few Supras in the world I'd call 'mint'. Is that about £30,000?

For starters it's not an RZ. It's an RZ-S, on which the rear spoilers were optional. And IMO they really need a rear spoiler, the back is too rounded otherwise. An RZ would have recaros, rear spoiler and an active spoiler which this car doesn't have.