tooquicktostop

It turns on the fanny magnet is always the best one for me

PM sent;)

And the far better alternative is ..............??

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/How_to_Win_Friends_and_Influence_People Put my name down please sir

That sounds too cheap for a 'Major' service as the cam belt and labour alone would use most of that no ??

Good luck I always have wondered what I would do if I had the chance to rebuild again, you learn a lot both good and bad along the way

That kind of comment ' Check up and plus' is why I would recommend a Supra specialist, I am sure there are a few worth the trip on here Phoenix Whifbits AFR (opens in Jan) Interpro etc

It really depends on what level of service you have, reading you last couple of posts you need some electrical work etc, it can all add up that for sure What did the £250 give you ?? it sounds ok if it includes plugs, oil, filter, air filter, gearbox oil etc, really would go to a Supra specialist if you can get to one though

Hope you get it sorted mate, feels like we are seeing a car a day bite the dust at the moment

NO MORE BUILDING :d, its a new years promise to myself, well on the Stock car anyway !!

I would be in, I have the spare TT6 which would be fun on the track without the worry of breaking my single car (sad I know)

I brought this 8 months ago or so as a run around, it came to me through a work mate and has been 100% reliable, it is amazing how this car has never cost me a penny other than an MOT, tax and a bit of oil and coolant in my ownership but I have managed to buy a TT as a daily driver now so it HAS to go 1996 N Reg SAAB 9000 CSE AUTO Turbo Red in colour (a bit faded it has to be said) 133,000 miles Tax until March and MOT until Summer 08 Black Leather heated seats Air con/Climate control (still working fine) Alloy Wheels Power steering Electric windows RDS Radio with tape player Good service history with plenty of receipts New Mats Pulls really well and gearbox very smooth Bad Bits It has a few marks on the paintwork as you would expect A small crease on the passenger door, no paint broken Noisy starter (starts first time every time however) Central Locking is a bit hit and miss at times As this car is sitting doing nothing now, I am open to offers, a great second car/winter hack that will be good for many miles and is a pleasure to drive, a lot of car for £550 It is in Purfleet in Essex if anyone is interested, would like it gone this week

What are the odds on that bet, quite good I would imagine??

How can you have a double on a KO and a win in the 8th, they are the same thing ? Oh unless you bet on a Hatton win by KO in the 8th ?? my bad

The other way to look at it is (conspiracy theory) is that the gov promote the story about fuel blockades and we ALL fill up at the inflated price, then the gov looks to back down a little and lower the price by a penny or so, Govenment bank makes huge profit while looking to listen to the public outcry I have more of these conspiracy thoughts since my divorce a few years ago

I would fit clear Which HKS turbo was it running and why did you change ??

It will not look such a bargin when it is sold IMO, this car has 5 days to run

I have Anti lag set up on the AEM, I have never used it myself, in part after reading this from the Cosworth WRC site, quite an interesting read and states quite clearly that anti lag is a turbo killer Anti-lag This basis for this article I have gotten form Steve Neophytou. The reason for Anti-lag is, as it's name suggests, to decrease or eliminate the lag induced by a turbocharger. It is mainly used in rally where all Group A or WRC cars are turbocharged. When you want big power out of a 2 litre engine you need a turbocharger, and the more power you want the bigger the turbocharger has to be. But a big turbocharger takes a long time to spin up and create boost pressure and that's where the ALS (Anti Lag System) comes in. Because every second a car is off boost a lot of time is lost on a rallystage. To get rid of the lag the needs to keep spinning at full speed at all times. This includes when the throttle is closed for a gearchange, when braking for a turn and when you're a the start line ready to take off. To keep the turbo spinning while the throttle is closed you need exhaust (lots of hot air basically) to keep turning the turbine wheel. This is how it works: To get the ALS working you need this: P8 ECU - Which the big-turbo Escort Cosworth already have as it was made for rally. Pectel anti-lag babyboard - An additional module to the ECU. Anti-lag valve - Replaces the original idle speed control valve. Modified throttle body - The inlet and outlet ports to idle valve bored out. Turbo with 360thrust bearing - So that it will last longer. EGT gauge - So you know when your turbo and manifold is going to melt. Wiring to "arm" the anti-lag and switch it off - This simply involves wiring in a switchable earth to one of the ECU pins. This goes for so-called "mild" anti-lag (see further down for info), for the real WRC stuff you need another (very expensive) turbo, exhaust manifold and a few other bits. With the ALS installed - when you let go of the throttle, the valve that replaces the standard idle valve in a modified throttle body opens to let the air continue through. The amount of air this valve can flow is the only thing that affects anti-lag, the less the airflow, the less effect the anti-lag has. Then the ECU retards the ignition timing by 30 degrees so the fuel is ignited when the exhaust valves are open and most of the fuel is already in the exhaust manifold and turbo. That makes lots of nice and hot exhaust to spin the turbo and create boost pressure. A small "mild" ALS valve can flow enough air to make 0psi boost pressure at idle/off throttle (rather than -25psi of vacuum), sometimes up to 7psi of boost, which makes the turbo hit full boost almost straight away when you press the throttle. The big WRC anti-lag valve can flow enough air to produce 22psi at idle (or off throttle), which makes the car have no lag at all. That will increase the driveability of the car a lot. Unfortunately the WRC ALS puts a big strain on the turbo and exhaust, whereas with the 'mild' anti-lag setup is practically as reliable as not using an ALS at all. It will gradually burn out your silencer baffles, but all that does is make your exhaust louder. Some people say that the fuel will cause "borewash" making the need for a rebuild all the time. But that is not the case. The amount of fuel used in anti-lag is not enough to cause any significant bore wash (unless you use £5 budget oil), most performance cars fuel on overrun, unless they have been mapped for good emissions, not mapped like that because of reliability reasons. Regarding the reliability of Cosworths with the mild ALS installed people have had it installed for up to three years without any problems at all even though it has been switched on at most times. The only real thing you have to be wary of with anti-lag is that Exhaust Gas Temperatures (EGT) go sky high but there's no real worry as you could be on the overrun for well over 30 seconds on 'mild' anti-lag before the EGT will get dangerously high. If EGT gets too high it could melt the exhaust and/or turbo. The engine internals will not have any problems. For full-on WRC anti-lag the specs is as with 'mild' anti-lag but with a bigger WRC ALS valve, and a anti-lag turbo with Maram 247 shaft and turbine wheel with 7° cut-back blades, Nimonic wastegate spindle and everything nicely put together by a reputable company at around £1800 total. You will need that as the extra stop/start shocks and extra heat would eat a standard shaft in minutes. A stainless steel exhaust manifold may be handy too as it could stand more heat than standard one. For road use you will not need more than 'mild' anti-lag, and for track use it might be best too as you're on track at sustained periods of time and the WRC anti-lag may be too severe for those long sessions. The ALS system won't increase the outright power of your car but it will significantly increase the power delivery - much much more low down torque since the car gets on boost a lot earlier than without the ALS.

Without some of the more controversial members on here the forum would be a much less interesting place IMO

That looks an interesting forum What are the club meets like

My car ran a HKS additional injector controller with 2 1000cc injectors putting in fuel into the intake, this is a very crude method of fuelling that does not give with any great accuracy a consistent spread of fuel delivery across all 6 cylinders, it was an accepted fuelling method in Japan some years ago and if anything most set ups of this nature run rich, mine ran OK but I changed at the first chance to uprated individual injectors and a fuel control ECU, I am sure someone will come along with more Tech advice than me soon

I have a good (Dudes old engine) bottom end if you want, it has ARP bolts and is fully open at Phoenix at the moment

This is what happened to mine, constant high torque on a big single will cause failure in the end, not sufficient cooling is a big problem with large power and auto boxes, you can add additional an cooler though to extend the life

Thats about right £2500 for the bits, £500 fitting