Ric

Wheels look great, fits the look well. Although im gonna say they need to be bigger

Yes as far as i understand the mats were specially made by toyota for dealers in the UK. I dont think you'd find any anywhere now.

What did it sell for?

I think i remember one selling in the USA for 1k just for the heated seat button.

Let me know if you want to swap those rear door cards for mine, id like the sunshades

I have an alpine double din. It's only used for carplay as all the processing is done on phone. My only needs are the 3x preouts for front, rear and sub. Never needed dab but you can buy the modules for it.

Don't forget to get the harness plastics flocked for the none oem seat.

Just checked this and the VSV isn't present on his car, and mine for that matter. perhaps this vsv is only usdm/uk? Mine is plumbed directly into the vacuum line for the map sensor and gas valve

It didnt hot start on either This is on our list to check. Resistances were checked on crank sensors. Checking warm resistance (Checked cold, ok) Cam sensors are to do. Bad earths possiblly option need to check the major ones.

PS codes are clear after fixing the 78, no further codes

Hi guys. Posting on the behalf of another member who's having issues with his car, I've tried to help as much as I can but reached the end of my knowledge. 2JZGTE car with stock ecu etc Read codes and was giving 78 which was a fuel pump Issue. This was solved because of a faulty connection in the tank. The car ultimately started first time albeit a bit lumpy at first (not ran for 2 years beforehand) Car ran without issue for 20 minutes after, At which point we turned off the car and fitted his original ECU (was using my spare originally) At this point the car refused to start, cranking fine but no fire. I removed the spark plugs etc to check them and they were a bit wet with fuel, gave them a clean up and refitted, the car started again perfectly. Again after ten mins of faultless running the car refused to start after being stopped. At this point we'd assumed the car had cooled down enough whilst doing the plugs to start, the car ran on the original ecu too. Again when warm the car just cranked without starting. We tried a spare coolant temp sensor and the car started straight away. Over and over. believing this was at fault he bought a new sensor from Toyota and fitted. The car started fine but when warm we are back to square one again. Which makes sense the spare sensor we had would have been "cold" at the time. Does anybody have any ideas of what to try next or what the issue could be? Crank sensor was changed but as it runs I don't believe this is the issue. Although I've asked him to check the resistances when warm too (I only checked cold) Thanks in advance.

Myself and a few others are using Reis motorsport now, i think

Good that you're sorted. Not sure how that affects your connection when you used to a cable though.

Wouldnt this mean you are just pumping back through the dirty stuff though?

Ok well if the ping etc worked fine using the 4G on your iPhone (which you were) then that proves it's a issue with your router/internet or connection to it

What device even is that? your phone? if you arent using Ethernet or wifi, what else is plugged in? your phone or other device? If your using your phones 4G it will be seperate from your home network.

If its happening on wifi and cable the cable isnt at fault.

is that during an event where your pc said you were offline? Are you using the supplied BT wifi hub, they are usually very rubbish when it comes to wifi. I would suggest getting a better performing wifi router. But it could also be the wifi card in the laptop. Are other devices having this issue? it will be really difficult to diagnose without being there etc.

windows key + r type CMD and enter Type ping 8.8.8.8 -t and enter. If it replies its OK if it says timed out it failed

although it's saying you're offline, are you actually? Set a ping going to 8.8.8.8 -t which will constantly send untill stopped. If it keeps going you're not actually going offline. Could be a DNS problem if the DNS server you're reaching is poor. Perhaps change this to 8.8.8.8 / 8.8.4.4

great video cheers Ellis!

I bought a SRD one, goes straight on no bother.

There is a removable section of the fan shroud at the bottom which once removed you can remove without removing the rad/fans Thats if you don't have an aftermarket shroud. Whilst you don't need to remove any of that (if working from underneath) i almost always remove the radiator etc when working on the front of the engine, just makes it so much easier.

Capital seating can supply it. https://www.capitalseating.co.uk/recaro-avus-fabric

For a NA to TT convert, None original RSP car (i assume, given the respray section). I would be biting the hand off anybody offering £36k Unpopular opinion perhaps.