Ric

So the engine bay is finally looking better with the crackle blacked parts. I also fitted a few bits i've had sat around for a while. Venom Automotive Brake and PS fluid caps ChargeAuto carbon wing tops DM strut tops A Whiftbitz cooling panel (i had to adjust my bonnet latches so the TS bonnet would close correctly.

Hi Guys, Big update time. So i've had an oil leak for some time, it never really bothered me as it only left perhaps a 10p sized blob on the floor over a course of 10 weeks or so. Small. But it progressively got worse and worse, not seriously but enough to annoy me. Because of the tightness of my garage there's no way i can get the car high enough to tackle these myself so a trip to a specialist was in order. After discussions with James at Performance @ Hart and recommendations from other members we decided to send the car in. However, these discussions soon turned to more drastic action resulting in a full underbody restoration, oops, don't tell the wife. James and I decided this would be best to give the car some love underneath after the top half is in good condition. So queue the long job, all new suspension arms, bolts, powder coated subframes, supports, heat shields, basically the job lot! I also decided to throw in some 8pot Ksports into the mix to give the front of the car a better look (i know, they wont get used, lol) When i had the car painted (4 years ago now, jeez) i asked the bodyshop to put some underseal on where possible, in hindsight this was a waste and caused James more work removing this before he could treat problem areas. Overall, a bit of surface rust but nothing too concerning for now, everything was treated with rust converter and then painted with Upol Raptor James also changed my autobox filter for a new one while the gearbox was out and painted. In addition to the underbody restoration the fixes for the oil leaks were as follows Camshaft Seals (i stupidly didnt do these while doing the water pump, cam belt etc) Front Main Seal - Weeping Rear Main Seal - Weeping Valve stem seals - Only an issue after left for weeks, but least its done now. James also crackle blacked my turbo pipes and manifold All new arms were installed along with new bushes for the rear subframe and diff mounts. Whifbitz uprated anti roll bars were also installed (thanks Almassey) Lots better underneath now and drives like a new car with the refreshed arms etc. We also fitted a TB developments 1st decat which is just simply devine the craftsmanship involved is fantastic. James also installed me my new Ksports And of course did the alignment to within perfect spec After i got the car home i tackled a few issues: Gluing the seals back onto the headlights. Amazed that new headlights seals are falling off already More cleaning I had an issue with the Radiator, we thought it was a dodgy rad cap as for some reason coolant was always appearing on the undertray. A new rad cap didnt solve it and we both could not see where the leak was coming from. In the end i decided to cut the losses and ordered another Mishimoto radiator to try. This one was fitted, bled and ran fine within 30 mins so the old radiator MUST have had a failure or pinhole leak some where, will try and return this. All ready for Wroxall not wroxall this weekend Thanks for looking!

Hi Guys, Got my car back from a large restoration under neath, ill update some pics on that later but had a little mini meet when i received the car back so see a few pics below: Drew007 and Mike's lovely MK3 supra.

Hi Guys, Just received my car back from it's underbody restoration so i have some of my old items for sale. The car wasn't needing new arms etc i just undertook the swap while new items were still available (as some are starting to get discontinued) So the arms were working fine as you'd expect with no knocks or bangs. The rubber boots look in good condition with no nicks or rips. The ball joins move smoothly and don't have in/out play. If anything they just need a good clean up and a paint. The bushes don't have any rips and tyres and seem quite supple. All items are plus postage, payment with Paypal (Buyer pays all fees) or cash on collection (Sheffield) Front Lower Arms (L&R) Pre facelift. - £100 each Rear Tension Rods (L&R) Pre facelift. - £70 each Front and rear roll bars - Includes brackets and bushes which seem in good condition with surface rust. - £50 each Rear Upper arms (L&R) Pre facelift. - £110 each Rear Lower arms (L&R) Pre facelift - Nearside has some slight nicks with an angle grinder but passed MOT and didnt show any issues - £80 and £50 (nearside) Front upper arms (L&R) Pre facelift. - £50 each Turbo pipes, full set apart from the "reed valve" section missing the lid - £130 Inlet manifold - bare - £100 Intake runners - None VVTI, freshly aqua blasted clean in perfect condition - £100 Front strut tower rings - £40

Hope it’s not the nascar version! Lol

Hope it’s not the nascar version! Lol

this list doesent seem that many compared to previous years? still looking forward to it!

screenshot a few adverts of similar cars for sale, they will be higher than 16k perhaps.

standing on the hub on the rear helped for mine, gives enough downwards movement to get the shock out. If you're my weight anyway lol

agreed value isnt just market value. It's the cost it would cost YOU to replace your car if it was stolen/written off, Sure a TT auto might cost 16k these days, but then what about your mods? If you have an agreed like for like insurance you need to factor the cost of your mods with supporting receipts. My car is a TT Aero GZ 94 with an agreed value of 28k because i can support the amount I've spent and the amount it would cost to replace my car as if nothing happened. They are just trying to gauge what your car is worth, as you're asking for "whatever" but their valuation book probably says like 4-5k so they want you to justify the extra. It's not hard and just requires some work from your side. BTW 16k is a small value, IMO.

I also have a set of these so be interesting to know. I think to get the max value you'd have to sell the genuine rails with them, i'd like to think you'd see at least 650-700 for them.

Yeah i've been speaking with paul, email is best, they are moving so things are delayed.

Jay has this installed: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?312625-Jays-VVTi-Single-Turbo-Paddleshift-build-thread&highlight=whifbitz+drive+wire i think he complained about some mapping issues but i dont know if its sorted.

It will be fine. You can test the bov by applying a pressure on one of the large hoses then using a vacuum on the smaller one. If the pressure goes to the other big hose it’s working

These were like hens teeth when i was looking

mine is manual so you can't be accused of flipping it up whilst going past a camera. People who i drive with will notice me stopping after a few minutes leaving a show because ive forgotton to flip it down! Although i think im going to remove mine and just use a static plate - https://www.staticplates.com/

I suppose time will tell but the specialist i've used says my pump is OK and the seal was worn. Mine was only weeping it's not been pushed out at all.

I wouldn’t get to hung up on that. You’re asking a 20 year old engine to perform over it’s designed limit. Items which were aged or old will start to fail the more you ask from it. My Car had full service history and developed and oil leak. Although I thought it was in great condition it would appear most of the seals need replacing It’s just had the front and rear main seals done along with the stem seals and cam seals

can you tell him they dont use tax discs anymore.

take off the rocker cover etc to try and see where it's coming from. Could be Cam cover seals, Cam Seals, of main crank seal in that area. If they hit the cambelt it will be distributed around the front of the engine. If it's quite a lot of oil id say main crankshaft seal or the cam seals. (although i'd expect the cam seals were replaced when you had the valve stem seals done?)

im sure somebody on here had an LPG supra. cant remember the username

no, just the seals

Love the engineering whats gone into it but sounds a bit rubbish IMO

They never made a Aerotop In manual, only usdm cars had that which are lhd Which means it will have to be converted and you’d never see that for 10k you’d need to double your budget or more.

We have a nightmare finding tradesmen all time. We wanted 14 new doors fitting inside our place. A few people come, some didn't turn up or didn't even send us the quote. The guy who actually came did 2 doors then buggered off never to be seen again, even left his George hoover here.