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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

redline Rooster

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Everything posted by redline Rooster

  1. Justin/Druid, cheers for the info, so they have there own sensors, well thats not too bad, especially as they simply plumb in to existing hoses!! thats a good point too about the fuel cut defencers - i didn't think of that right time to start looking in to getting one i believe! - just need to find some that fit tightly in to that air vent hole in the dash!! L8R rooster! :flame Dev
  2. Hi, well there seems to be a lot of "boost" related issues flying around at the mo, so i thought i'd ask another one I've got the pin out for my ECU and noticed theres a Turbo boost pin on there, now this obviously informs the ECU of the boost pressure so it can use the reading do its stuff. Anyway if i were to get a boost gauge, I take it there are electronic ones out there, and would it tap this signal, in which case thats great as installation will be very nice - or does it require a new sender to be installed on the engine?!?!?! Also does anyone know of a source/sites of gauges that will fit snugly in to the centre console air vent, as i've seen it on pictures and it look excellent! Right i'll turn my interrogation lamp off now cheers for any info Rooster :flame Dev soon to see the boost as well as feel it!
  3. Cheers mate! - thats excellent - its got all the info i need and more!!! nice one! L8R Rooster :flame Dev
  4. Hardhead42, any chance of passing us a copy of that ECU pinout spread sheet?!?!!? that'll be really handy!! cheers mate! rooster :flame Dev
  5. OK Cheers mate - yeah i'll give this info a go!! If its wrong it wont do any harm, but like you say, the looms are more then likely gonna be the same , its just certain functions will be different between UK and US cars, speed and revs should be in the same place!!! *hopefully* L8R rooster :flame Dev
  6. Ibrar : Yeah i thought that would be the case! James : Well you can choose any colour LED for your dash replace ment! - Red does look good, blue is cool, too, but blue LEDs are very expensive!! I'm doing my mate car at the moment in with a variable colour system!! - using LEDs that can make anycolour you want by controlling the intensity of the red/green/blue leds inside the package! - it should look excellent when its done! as he'll be able to choose what ever shade/colour he wants! Roost :flame Dev
  7. Hi peeps! does anyone out there know or have a wiring diagram for a UK 94/5 TT auto, mainly connections to the ECU. Basically i need to get access to the wires which supply the ECU with the speedo and rev pulses. from the respective sender, and i'm doing a project for my car which needs these signals to work properly! Its basically the same thing you'll find in the Nissan GT-R - its a G force logging system, which also logs revs, speed - and can do things like 0-60 1/4 mile times and good stuff like that! Well if you can help then that would be mint! Cheers Rooster *nearly there, but missing two wires* :flame Dev
  8. Are they LEDs behind the Rev gauge or are the just small light bulbs like the rest of the ones in the display pods!??!!??! I guess either way it doesn't matter - if they're and arse to get to then your still shagged!! On one of my first cars, it seemed to have a habit of going thru dash lights like there was no tomorrow! - so i replaced all the bulbs with cool hi-brightness green LEDs!! cheap simple mod, and the main thing was that i knew i'd never have to replace a damn dash light again!!! ahhhhhhh! L8R rooster :flame Dev
  9. roboldham, well its work checking - but seeing as yours is a '98 car i'd be supprised if the joints had gone already! - it will most likely be the bulb as they can just pop just like that even if they're not used much! as for getting behind the dash you just need to take the top cover off, above the clocks, this then exposes the light display units for diagostics and TC OFF light - its about 5 screws thats all, just be carful of the wiring - AND DO NOT TURN THE IGNITION ON WITH WIRES UNPLUGGED!!!! other wise you WILL trip you airbag warning system and you'll have to take it to Toyota for them to reset it!! cool hope that helps mate! good luck!! L8R rooster :flame Dev
  10. Terminator, Well the soldering was the original!!! - basically the Printed Circuit Boards that hold the lights are "wave Soldered" by machines, this is automatic very cheap and very fast!!!!! - the only thing is if its done too fast the joints dont get thier fair share of solder - then over the years the extreme heat and cold that a dash board encounters in a car eventually weakens and cracks the joints, as it did in my car!! coz on hot days the TC worked fine but cooler days it was totally temporamental! as the jointed expanded and shrunk with temperature!! So i just re soldered them by hand giving each joint a good emount! job done! - toyota wanted £160 for the new light unit!! OUCH!! good job i fixed it myself!! L8R Roost :flame Dev
  11. Well I had the SAME PROBLEM on my car!!! - its not as new as yours but what it turned out to be was the "TRC OFF" warning light has a nice little safety feature built in that if the light is not working, it wont let you turn the TC off "for safety reasons" as there is no way to tell you TRC is off until you spin out and hit that nice oak tree over thar!! Basically on my car if i hit the dash board sometimes the TRC would work properly, so i lead me to believe a dry joint was lurking!! - i took the display unit apart ans low and behold there it was the most sh*tty soldering i've even seen! - i ran some new decent solder joints over it put it back in and the TC now works fine and i've had not a bit of trouble in over 3 months! You may just have a blown bulb as you car is so new - but if the soldering is still as crap then it could be a dry joint! P.S - does your red warning light come on too sometimes when you try to switch the TC off?!?! L8R Rooster :flame Dev
  12. Steve W, oh right i see what you mean!! - yeah the power delivery is very smooth, but yet you do get pinned back to the seat!!! :D I like it when i have a passenger too, as they dont expect you to plant it, and its soooooo funny watching them suddernly get pinned back as you go launching off down a dual carrage way or something!!! excellent stuff! I've added a relay in circuit to my TC now so i can now have TC in 3 modes - "on", "dumb mode off" or use the relay to switch it "really off" - soooo much better!!!! L8R Roost :flame Dev
  13. hmmmm does sound like a blown turbo/oil seal - My mate has a scooby, and he had his turbos wound up quite alot, and was running about 17PSi boost, this was great until one day POP! we were up our "test strip" doing 0-60's when he lost all boost and the biggest ploom of blue smoke ever came from his car!!! When it was all stripped down he had blown the oils seals in his turbo and a bearing had ciezed!! not good! dont want to sound gloomy, but you may just have blown oil seals and not bearings as well. he had his reconned, and it wasn't too bad either!! cant rememeber exactly how much but he was up and running again in about 2 weeks! Rooster :flame Dev
  14. I dont think any of the Sup's came with a launch control, thats what you mean by smooth pull away device i take it!?!? I have a UK TT and if you stamp the throttle firmly to the metal your pinned back from 0 all the way until the top, theres no gentle pull away, infact it quite a punch?! - may be you have a LC system fitted!?! have you looked?! Like you say though i was a bit concerned that it wouldn't spin on dry tarmac in a straight line, but when you think about it the traction from 2, 255 width tyres is immense! how ever it does still slide like a gooden on a corner!! *i've pulled the fuse out on the stock TC!* :D Yepp good fun!!! need new rubber now!! b*#cks L8R rooster - with less tread than before :flame Dev
  15. haha so all in favour of ripping out the fuse say aiiiii!!!! OK cheers guys, I just wanted to know!! i mean i dont want to do mad things like just do donuts etc *well only sometimes! * its just since i've had the supra my TC system has been a bit funny, but know its fixed i'm just seeing what it should behave like!!! cool, well i think i'll try the fuse out method, we've got an old airfeild near us, and planty of large carpark with nothing to hit! *always usful* I do know what you mean about the kick down in the wet though!! i'm always careful with the throttle in the wet, but I have had an experiance where the back end wanted to go one way and the front the other!! luckily though i caught it and after cleaning the leather off it was a face full of :D :D I've been on a skid pan course as well so that helps LOL!!! Cheers again! Rooster :flame Dev
  16. Hi, I've been having some trouble with my stock TC. Basically the TRC OFF light used to sometimes not come on, or glow half brightness with the ! warning light, and sometimes glow full brightness!! I sorted this how ever by taking the assmebly apart, and finding a load of dry solder joints around the cable socket. Now it comes on full brightness everytime i press the switch! However i was driving it around to see if the TC was working properly, and then the TRC OFF light is off the TC definatly works, as i tried it on gravel and you could feel it holding the power back plus the TRC light on the dash was flashing like mad! I thing turned the TC off, and it seemed to be off, but it didn't wheel spin as much as i expected it to. I then tried it on tarmac but it felt like the TC was still active, becuase you could here the tyre beginning to screech, but not quite! I have a UK TT Auto, and i know this may sound mad or daft but how easy should it be to get it to wheels spin on tarmac?!?! coz it seems reluctant too! - i dont want to be doing burnouts or anything, i just want to know how the car should behave with the stock TC off and what to look out for?! anyway if you have any advice that would be cool Cheers Rooster :flame Dev
  17. Cheers Thorin!! Thats spread sheets excellent!!! - yup i definatly reckon that should be put back up on the forum cool! Rooster :flame Dev
  18. hmmmmm yeah a geometry check isn't a bad idea actually, its in for a service at the end of the week and the place has all that gear so i'll get to make sure all is OK. Archrolling - that did cross my mind that i might have to do that!!! ouch, I've seen too many examples of where this has gone wrong to go down that avenue!! ahaha, i'm sures its fine as long as its properly treated and sealed after its done! - well i'll have a look round and get some ideas together! cheers for the help guys!! Rooster! :flame Dev
  19. yeah thats right, it is the suspenstion thats causes the camber, because as you jack the car up, and the front wheels drop down, you can see the camber reducing. Its worse on mine because its lower then the factory levels. I cant really have a bigger offset as that means the tyres will hit the arches on servere bumps *as i found out with one of my other cars* I've got a UK spec so its got the bigger brakes on there I just really need to know if theres any problem with tyre scrubbing due to the camber they're at seeing as i do use the car alot, i dont want to be going thru front tyres every couple of months!! hahaha Cheers for the info!! Rooster :flame Dev
  20. Hi, I have a UK TT and i'm looking to change the stock 17's for something a bit more yummy!! I want to go to 18" coz i've seen supras on 18 and they just look the bizz! Now i got a few things i need to make sure on! first my car has been lowered, only a little, and there is 15-20mm arch gap now, so basically i have to get wheels with the same offset (50mm i think) because if they stick out anymore, then over big bumps i'm gonna be doing some "on the move" arch re-modelling!! so is this offset right for the car. I've seen 50 on the alloys and assumed this is the offset. Secondly, the front wheels have quite a inward camber on them, and i replaced the front tyres a while ago as the inside treads where reduced to nylon!! - seeing as on 18's i'll need a lower profile tyre, does anyone know of this camber causing significant problems?! E.G more wear or worsened handling!! - if i have to stay at 17" so as not to ruin the handling i will! Cheers for any help!!!!!!! L8R Redline Rooster :flame Dev
  21. Yeah i've heard that, so i'm currently working on a nice air ducting and aluminium cowl to keep that nasty heat away I had the same thing with my last car, if you simply installed the kit like they said in the booklet it would have draw boiling air from the back of the engine bay!!!!! not very good at all! you may as well stuff a sock in your in take and save £110 on an induction kit!!! this setup will bring cool air from the front of the car, but hopefully when its raining, no water should find its way up the due to the position on the intake!!....... i hope L8R rooster
  22. Hi, I'm thinking of ordering an APEXi induction kit for my Sup, seeing as I can get quite a bit off the normal price! I was just wondering if anyone else had fitted one of these kits to thier car, and what they thought!?!?!? I had an APEXi kit installed on my last car and was quite impressed by "freeness" of the engine when revving. That car how ever was not turbo'd! anyway, i'm gonna wait for Mr. Postman! L8R Rooster
  23. Dean, haha cheers for the encouragement!! well seeing as Martin has a blank one in case all goes wrong, i'm gonna take it in to 'surgery' later this week! - i've got hold of some super strong contact glue from a mate with a van so i'll be sorted there!! I've found a nice razor sharp scribing tool, which seems to cut nicely away at plastic like that and leaves a very clean edge!! so its looking good! Cheers Rooster
  24. Dean - yeah i'm not looking to put the standard LED strip in to my boot level light. I have made this LED driver that does something nice to the LED when you press the brake. Its not cheesy or some thing that flashes it just fades all the LEDs on smoothly starting in the center and fading outwards!!! - it looks very smart, and it my trade mark for all my cars i've hadd!!! hahaha I would really like to make the dead loom in the boot work, as that would save running extra wires about the place, but either way i'll do it some how!! The only thing i'm not looking forward to is crackin open the old brake light unit, asthe glued section needs to be strong enough to hold the unit in place and provide a good boot seal all good fun though eh??? Cheers Rooster
  25. Cheers Martin, well i guess thats what i'm gonna have to do. The thing is i hate taking the interior panels apart oh well, it'll be worth it in the end.....i hope!! ahhaha cheers I'll let you know how i get on! Rooster
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