redline Rooster

Cool, cheers for the informantion guys!! - i'll definitly give it a look then!!!!!! cheers rooster :flame Dev

Terminator, yeah i was actually gonna fit a boost guage in the next few weeks - whats a EGT guage?!?!?! not sure what that stands for? haha yeah i still have my cats fitted. Thats another mod i'd like to do is remove them, but then theres the risk of blowing the Turbo oil seals isn't there!?!?!? rooster :flame Dev

Well so far I have done no engine mods at all yet! Thats my next phase!! hahaha So 1.2 bar is the safety limit for winding the stock boost then eh!?!? thats about 18PSI, whats the stock boost then? - i thought it was around 9 PSI or 0.7 BAR ??!!? i'd be looking for around 15 PSI boost i reckon then to start off with, then i'll go higher as the modding goes on!! cheers rooster :flame Dev

Robo, hahah no probs mate! - well if its the outer arches you can have the offset rediced on the alloys by having the hub mounts milled down, my mate with a Honda CRX had this done to his wheels as the offset would have been 6mm to large, now they fit like a dream!!! Rooster :flame Dev

Hi all, I know this may have been asked before, i did a search first but could really find the answer i was after - so here goes Basically i'm looking to increase the boost level of my stock turbos. Also mainly to increase the boost of the 1st turbo mainly as it could do with having more punch, also i wouldn't mind more boost in general. so what i'm asking is, is it quite straight forward to increase the overall boost, not by rediculous amounts just enough, or will i need to fit things like fuel cut defencers and higher fuel regualtors for this. I assumed if i was just going to wind the boost by a smallish amount i could get away with it!?!??! cheers for any info on this!!!! Rooster :flame Dev

hi robo, Yeah that sheet is cool!! - it look over complicated but gives a few examples for you - you just need to enter your tyre/wheel info in to the area marked "input your info here" I assumed your wheels would be 10.5" so basically the smallest offset you can have with 285/30 tyres is 48 - any smaller it'll scrub - really you want 50-52mm offsets to be in the clear - 55mm is as large as you can go or else you'll hit your outer arches!! well unless you trim them *yukky* normally the offset is on the inside of your alloys or near the rim as on the stock alloys!??!! L8R rooster :flame Dev

Hi roboldham, well seeing as your tyres are 18 285/30 then i guess your rims width is around 10.5 - 11" correct?!?! if so then you need an offset of at least 48 mm wo miss the inner arches - and smaller and you will grind the top most part of the inner arch as the suspension cambers more under load. I have an Excel spread sheet *see attached zip file* i was emailed a while ago when i was looking for my wheels - its very accurate too, try playing with a few values, you may just need to add spacers of like a few mm or so?!?! Hope this helps!!?!?!? L8r rooster :flame Dev supra wheels fitment.zip

yeah thats right - This morning i got my Bro to press the throttle to the floor *engine was off * and then i looked in the engine bay and tried to see if i could turn the throttle control any further by hand, but it wouldn't go any further, so it seems my cable even with the dead band is adjusted perfectly. Rooster :flame Dev

well seeing as the Supra box is computer controlled it should have a bit of saftey code in the software to realise that if it engages Reverse at more then 10MPH its gonna do damage!! so i would assume it'll default to neutral - still wouldn't wanna give it ago! ahhaha Also when shifting manually from neutral to Drive or d1, d2 you DONT need to press the button in, just push the lever - you only need to push the button when selecting reverse, as its a kind of mechanical saftey switch to stop you acidently selecting R when going forwards!! roost :flame Dev

Hi, Yeah i also have the same thing!! - when you look at the cables on the throttle body, both the throttle pedal cable and the cruise control cable have a bit of slack in them?!?! I thought this odd at first and was gonna play round with tightenijng them up!?!? - but if everyone seems to have the same thing then i guess its OK! - well as long as your getting full throttle which i think i am! hmmmm might have a play round with it!! the thing is with the Autos inparticular, if you remove this dead gap then when you floor it the throttle will be more open when the kick down is activated!! could be interesting if anyone has a play round telll us what its like!?! L8R Rooster :flame Dev

Yeah I believe the auto box ECU uses speed, rev and throttle position to determine when it should change - i guess a dodgy speed conversion would put this out a bit. roost :flame Dev

Matt, good point actually the Supras boxes are electronically controlled! - the old style full mechanical oil governed ones you dont want to do it in! - e.g F reg ford Granada!! :D still i wouldn't want to try it on a supra box!! haha roost :flame Dev

yeah you can leave it in 1st if you want, or just leave it in auto mode but put it in drive 2 - so the gear box is free to shift between 1st and 2nd depending on how much your giving it! the 1st gear is relativly short so usually, especially on grass i leave it in auto but in drive 2 - get a better spin that way! Power braking is the best way to start a good spin off, but like the other guys say dont do keep the brakes on with high revs for too long as the ATF gets hot quick! - I read somewhere that the manufactures rating for the max oil pressure in the auto torque converter can get to some 2000PSI!!!!!!! mad!! Power braking is definaly the best way to get a mint 0-60 too cheers rooster :flame Dev

Quote dmad "and im presuming the best option would be to rev in N and then wack it down to either D or L on full lock?" OUCH!!!! - i've seen the results of this first hand!!! - a few years back in College there was this old Fud Ganada auto *rusty old pig of a car* :p - anyway we thought it'd be funny to find out what happens when you rev and auto an pop it in drive! hmmm 1, Lots of oil every where 2, cracked gearbox casing 3, almight shreeking of slipping gear teeth!!! Although highly funny on the Granada you dont wanna do this to a Sup nooo way!!!! haha I have used the manu to manually shift the gears *its alot of effort though LOL!* - but it is good for doing donuts - lock it in 1st and control the revs :devil: I hate to admit doing things like that but what can i say Abeast of a RWD drive car one very wet field and a mate with a camcorder!! haha Rooster :flame Dev

WOW 36000 miles since 93 ! thats amazing!! i wish my car only had 36K on the clock!! haha Mind you it still drives like its only done 36K no rattles or anything feeling loose, the only niggle is the little puff at start up!! - luckily its still only very very faint, but still annoying!! I'm not sure why your car should be doing, as 36K is not very far, especially for a 3.0 engine hmmmm might be worth getting it looked at. roost :flame Dev

yeah Eyefi thats right! you may as well give the head a good over haul while your working on it, i think the other things to check are oil jets for the Cams and clearances etc. I mean i'm suprised my engine is showing signs of worn seals as OK its done 90K miles, but most of the time under normal driving conditions it only revs at 1500 - 3000, obviously when you floor it or go for a right hoon, then it goes right the way to the top of the range, but in general its a fairly low revving engine?!?! oh well sh*t happens i guess rooster :flame Dev

yep thats right! and the answer to #4 is anything from £400 to £1200 - depending on the engine! unfortunatly the Supra engine is a big one with 24 Valves so its gonna be pricey! my bro had is car done for £500 and that was a 4 cylinder 2.0 16v - only his valve seals on the exhaust valves had gone, but they did them all anyway as the had it apart! rooster :flame Dev

Adi, yeah i only get light smoke on start up, it lasts about 5 seconds max then stops! I reckon it must be the valve seals then - geeeeez I'm gonna look in to prices for getting them done, but i will wait until it gets worse before i do it as its not too bad at the mo!! rooster :flame Dev

Eyefi, Yeah i've still got my cats in, but thats one of the mods i wanted to do eventually is have them removed when i have a new system made up for the car! Yeah as for the smoke like you and Neil say its not worth doing right now, coz its very slight and not too noticable! - but if it does get worse then its gonna ahave to be done! - mainly coz i know it does it and it bugs me!! haha probably being to fussy but hey! Still I might get a few quotes to just see what the wallet damage is likely to be when the time comes!! Cheers guys! L8R roost :flame Dev

So you reckon it could be Valve stems then!!! ARSE!! hmmm that aint gonna be cheap! - it doesn't do it much *at the moment* and you have to be looking to notice it! - but i know it does it and blue smoke just looks sh*t!!! bugger! better prepare the wallet for a dent then!!! I think a trip to the garage is required! cheers guys rooster :flame Dev

Alright Alex, yeah i thought i may have been that, infact i was hoping it was that rather than Valve seals, as i'm sure it would be more costly to do that Do you know how much it is roughly to get them fixed?!?! - and how would they diagnose if it were the turbo bearings!?! - hmmm yup i'll look into this then nice one! Like you say it's probably caused my turbo neglect or just age possibly??! - I always make sure i give more then ample time for spin/cool down of the turbos Well cheers for the help mate! L8R roost :flame Dev

Hi Guys, I've noticed recently when i start my Sup you get a small puff of light blue smoke for about 5 seconds out the tail pipe, its not thick, but very slight! Sometimes its thicker but it seems after a good run when its been idling for a while for the turbos to spin/cool down thats when it happens, or if the car hasn't been used for a while. I've sniffed the smoke dont laugh!!! - and it doesn't smell like the usual smell of burning oil, as my mates Ford does!! My car has done 91000 miles now, and has a full service history etc. At first i though it might be the turbo oil seals as i hear these start to give up after this emount of time! - the other thing could be the valve stem oil seals!! Any one have any ideas/experiance of this - also cost to put it right, i'd really appreicate any info or ideas!! cheers worried rooster :flame Dev

Hi, This might be a long shot, but does anyone have the technical data on the Speed and Tachometer pulse signals from the senders. Basically what i mean is data that tells you how many pulses relate to MPH or RPM depending on what sender your reading from. If someone has this it'll save having to get the old measuring equippy on the car, and doing all that stuff! Its basically for a nice little performance monitoring gadget i'm building for the car!!! anyway if anyone has this data it would be cool! nice one! L8R rooster :flame Dev

Justin, thats quite mint idea actually! - i like the digital readout too, looks good!!. I see now where the T-peice an tubing needs to go, yeah that'll be nice an easy to install, excellent!! hmmmmm time to get the old card out i believe and do some early christmas shoppping for my car!!! cheers mate! Rooster :flame Dev

Justin,