FilS004

Hi all, can anyone explain to me (looking at the wiring diagram), how fan relay 2 is accuated? Is it accuated once the ign is turned on (which comes from page 56), so going through the 30 A fuse? My problem is that I am not getting any power from fan (R2) relay 1 pin 1. I have power to (E5) engine coolant switch pin 2, (R3) fan relay 2 pin 1&2 and (R2) fan relay 1 pin 4. radfan diag.pdf

No, I have tried bleeding, but as you cannot turn the steering wheel to the right, it will not bleed correctly. I cannot see a way to put the pipes on incorrectly Wile e coyote, as each direction has a different fitting, but it has been standing for 6 yrs (on jack stands). I am now either going to drop it off at the local Toyota garage for them to have a look at it, or get a new steering rack. As it is an import, Toyota are saying the my steering rack has been superseded by a new rack with an ECU. Anyone have any ideas why a PS unit would require an ECU? Obviously at £1500 this is a ridiculous price, so does anyone know of any steering racks that are available for me to purchase, so I could have that option open if I wanted. It is a '93 JZ80 GTE automatic

ok thanks for the info

Hi all, I cannot turn my steering wheel past the centre to the right. I have installed a full intercooler, which meant replacing the power steering cooling pipes, so I guess it has something to do with that. I cannot turn the steering to the right with the engine on or off, as I tried to bleed it, which you have to do w ith the engine off initially. Can anyone point me in the right direction as to what the problem may be please.

Ok, sounds like I need to drain it and sort it with some fresh stuff.

Well it has been on the drive since Oct 13 and it was starting last year, so not sure about that

Thanks for your information TRD-1, I removed the IAC and using the manual to test it, it clearly does not work at all (it is fully retracted), so it looks like you were right! I got onto Toyota as I didn't fancy putting a Chinese cheap one in, and they wanted £836!, so I will be scouring the net for a decent one at a decent price. The best I have found so far is an AISAN £320 (including the body part as well as the IAC)

Thanks TRD-1, I will look at that in the morning

Has anyone heard of fuel going off after 5 years?

Non vvti (It's a 93 Supra) - - - Updated - - - Yes, throttle flaps works properly and was not stuck open when the engine raced

Hi Swampy442 The biggest issue I have is that the engine went full throttle and won't start again. Once I had turned it off, I took the intercooler pipe off and looked down the throttle body and found that the throttle was shut, so I don't think that it was the throttle cable. Also, it will not start again, so I am thinking that there must be some other issue that is causing this.

Hi Swampy442 The biggest issue I have is that the engine went full throttle and won't start again. Once I had turned it off, I took the intercooler pipe off and looked down the throttle body and found that the throttle was shut, so I don't think that it was the throttle cable. Also, it will not start again, so I am thinking that there must be some other issue that is causing this.

Hi all Long story, my turbo broke, threw oil into my cylinder and melted a piston, so took the whole engine apart and rebuilt it. Bought some nice forged pistons and rods, some lovely aircraft quality valves, and had them fitted very professionally. They gave me the block and head back, and I put it all back together with the occasional help of a professional mechanic. Started first time, as it always has and no problems. Oil pressure good, fuel pressure good, air/fuel as expected. Still on the drive when I put it all back together, but I had an airbag fault. Took me a year to find what the fault was, but finally fixed that too. So, went for an MOT and that is where my problems start, that I am hoping some of you may be able to help me with, or at least point me in the right direction. First of all I found it wouldn't turn right, so I had to reverse it back round three corners back to my drive, but as it had sat on the drive for around four years, that wasn't that surprising. I had also added a blitz intercooler, so had to change alot of pipework, including the PS pipework, so it probably just needs bleeding (I hope). But the biggest problem was that when I was parked I touched the accellerator and it went full throttle, so I immediatley shut it off and it hasn't started since. I have measured the crank and cam sensors to the manual, I did find that I had been sold the incorrect o-rings for the injectors, which made them leak, so I thought that might be the problem, but I have fixed that with the correct o-rings (so no leaks) and still nothing. I am looking for ideas of a: why it went full throttle (throttle not sticking in any way) and b: if anyone has any ideas of what to look at and in what order. Is there a way of resetting the ECU, could that have gone screwy? (The battery is contantly disconnected when I am not working on it, so if it is just a case of diconnecting the battery for 10mins or so, then that isn't it). I have ordered a coil on plug tester, but that will be here in the week. I would be most grateful of any help or ideas.

I think that would be found if I tested using TE1 and E1 for engine codes (which makes the engine light blink), where I tested E1 and TC for airbag codes (which makes the airbag light blink) and got 22.

Hi all, does anyone have a list of ODB codes for the SRS (Airbag). Actually, I have found one, but the code my SRS light is showing is not on it. Mine is pulsing the code 22. Does anyone know what that is? Looks like it is the Air Bag Warning Light System Malfunction. Does anyone have any better ideas for this?