leelbuk

Sounds like enough people here might have one to have a competition! We could have a list like the ECU register to see who has the limpest wrist and who may be treating their wrist to extra-curicular activities! I'll see if I can dig mine out later!

Excellent! Sound like Paul might be the answer to my prayers! Thanks a million everyone

I noticed Paul sells the 800's but not the 850's but it's still worth asking I suppose I've got to have a chat with him later anyway!

Bump! I might go ahead and order the collars from RHDJapan as they seem to do them for about £100 posted. I'm gonna hazard a guess that my injectors with 2045 stamped on them are the same as SARD part 63507 seeing as they appear identical in looks, flow the same cc and are made by denso. If anyone reading this has had experience putting these 850's into stock rail please let me know how you got on, whether you needed these collars etc and where you got them from! I would go for the 800cc SARDs or something similar that drops in but that would cost £500-£600 and I don't know who i could sell these 850's too if they don't fit stock rail as is.

Has anyone done this and can advise? I have a set of side feed SARD 850's from another member who I'm sure had a stock rail but as I've received them, they look like they will not fit the stock rail. Looking on the SARD website it says that you need collars to fit their 850's (part 63507) but mine have the numbers 2045 punched in the top of them so don't know if SARD used to make a different model (however they look identical). I think the collars look like this: If they are required then I have found them on nengun for $180 but perhaps traders on here might sell these? I'd go to Nic but I don't know if he is still trading. On a side note, others have gone with Blitz 850cc injectors saying they are a straight fit but these seem to be just SARD 850's with the collar kit so would seem like they may be overpriced re-brands.

It's an app specifically for viewing, searching and posting on forums such as this one Much more efficient than using a smartphone web browser to do the same thing!

1. Hackin'n'bashin (Adam) - Dash Panels and switches 2. hp006 - Dash Panel and driver door card top of switches 3. gazzi123 - dash panels/centre console (arm rest) + door panels - can you PM me price for this please 4. leelbuk - Dash Panels (£70)

+1 here on Galaxy S - I only use it to read though but is great when you need a bit of info whilst out working on the car! I followed the entire stem seal guide using it!

I'd be interested in the dash panels being done

Looks awesome dude and definitely an interesting line of work! Probably very interesting to watch that milling machine on the go! Do you have a 'bring your friends to work day'? Would be like an episode of 'How do they do that?'

I take it that this only happens when the stereo is switched on? Could be a bad earth? Maybe near the light clusters themselves or perhaps dirty contact on relay/a bad relay?

On this subject, does anyone know if the shims are solid hardened throughout or just case hardened? If the latter I would be worried that grinding/sanding these would result in accellerated wear or deformation later on if the hardened material was grinded off. I've read posts from Chris Wilson saying that you can grind them on the bucket side of the shim so I'd hazard a guess that they are hardened all the way through? Starting to look at this more seriously as I need 19 shims and this is nearly £200 from the stealers and might take a while if they have to be ordered. EDIT: Had reply from Paul - his 264 cams use standard lash in case anyone digs up this thread in future

I did think of something like that but was worried that I might not get it completely flat and risk spitting one of these shims out. Mate, I should have thought that you might have something suitable where you work! If you can do it then it'll mean some notes your way! Just checked parts catalog and you are right, they are the same! If you do have some smaller I'd definitely pay for you to post them and I'd vow to keep whatever I shims I swap out and offer them to anyone else on the forum who needed them for them same deal!

Is that using that "Di Noc" (sp) stuff? Looks like a great finish so well done! How long did it take you and how much did it cost?

Thanks Phil - I've checked these cold, just wandered if the clearance would change after the engine was turned over a couple of times, to make sure everything is bedded in.

Just fitted some Whifbitz 264 cams and have measured the clearance as recommended and I'm glad I did! I'm not sure on what the tolerances are for Whifbitz cams (I've PM'd Paul for these) but either way they are all pretty tight. (I did not measure them before so they could have already been this tight on standard cams) My measurements. My questions are: 1. Has anyone had experience with Whifbitz cams and still knows what the lash tolerances are? 2. The engine obviously hasn't been run with these cams yet and I have just changed the stem seals etc however the cams have been turned a couple of times (I checked and double checked clearances). Is this enough or does the engine need to be started and then the clearance checked to make sure everything is bedded in? 3. Most of the values that are in spec (assuming standard Toyota tolerances apply) are borderline on being too tight. i.e. a lot of the intake clearances are 0.15mm and seeing as there is an amount of error involved with feeler gauges (the human factor) they could easily be very slightly under 0.15mm. Should I have all these changed/surface ground by 0.05mm so that they are all mid spec? I believe I've read that wider clearances are noisier but carry less risk of burning valves? 4. Does anyone do/know anyone that would be able to surface grind shims for me? At the moment it looks like I'll have to change most of the shims and at nearly £10 each it's a lot of money if surface grinding was a cheaper alternative for the same thing. Any help is greatly appreciated as I've been trawling the internet and piecing together all sorts of information to try and help me here but feel I need something definitive for my specific situation. Thanks for taking the time to read this!

Only few things to go now! Get new cams this week, fit them, check shims, put back together, install injectors, then it'll be time to fit manifold, turbo, wastegate, fuel pump etc. Should have it ready by christmas easily but maybe won't map until new year depending on how much snow we get!

looking good! Wish you the best of luck on the dyno

Unbelievable but I did it! Started at 10:30am, finished fitting the last seal at about 6:00pm and the only casualty is my back & hands! I managed to do the job and leave the head ding/scratch free which I'm pretty proud of seeing as I've never ever opened up an engine, even if I did only take the very top off and considering I did this on my driveway in these stupid temperatures!! Credit goes to Tony! Thanks for the guide as I wouldn't have had the confidence to do this job otherwise! Just need to get some cams and do the shims before I can put everything fully back together. Some notes: If doing this on a driveway like I did, make sure your neighbours windows are closed or that they are at least not offended easily - profanities were being chucked as often as tools! My cam pulley bolts were INCREDIBLY tight - almost a showstopper for me. It took a breaker bar on the pulley end and using another spanner to link with my adjustable to get the leverage I needed and even then I was practically giving myself a hernia trying to undo them! The seals are VERY tough to remove, especially on the inlet side which made job harder as you are trying to remove them with brute strength but still wary of damaging anything. Gripping the seal and turning it about the valve stem broke the seal and made it easier. I had to remove the heater matrix coolant hose to the rear to allow me to reach the final valves and getting purchase on the valve keeper tool was especially difficult there I only had to use the rubber mallet a couple of times to remove the keepers when my own body strength wasn't enough Me pushing with my whole body weight was barely enough to refit the keepers - bare this in mind if doing this yourself. A heavier person should have an easier job as I'm only little! The GA317A tool was smaller and had no knurling and is cheaper so I would say its the more suited tool however I had to put a few layers of insulation tape and fold it over the end to make 1st time keeper seating much more reliable (see pics) but other than that it fits within the bore with a few mm to spare. Insulation tape around the outside of the tool helped further in preventing and damage to the head. Whether it made a difference or not I used 3m of 6mm soft polyester rope instead of 2 - I never had to re-adjust the crank part way through a cylinder and it compressed very easily but remained very firm against the valves even with the tool compressing them. Be prepared to do nothing after - I'm feeling pretty knocked out now!

Thanks for the kind offer Jay! Snap-on are delivering the GA317 tool tomorrow so I should know by then if I can get by with it or not so I may yet take you up on that offer! That tool you made is a bit of genius and I don't think I'd have bothered with the snap-on one if I'd had thought about asking you to borrow yours!

Done! Thanks for the heads up! I'm awaiting a reply from Steve now but if anyone see's this thread and also has a set let me know!

About to do my stem seals and cam cover seals so will be on the hunt for some cams very soon. 264 in and ex please. Let me know if you are thinking of selling yours, ideally I need these in the next week or two as otherwise I will just buy a new set Cheers.

Driving without an MOT is a non-endorsable offence i.e. no points. I have been caught for it once before - I was 20 and I completely forgot that it had been a year since the last time and the Police did a spot check on me. I was shocked and pretty worried about the consequnces at the time until the officer told me there and then it was non-endorsable, just a fine to pay. That said, I'd be more worried about the insurance - wouldn't want to drive anywhere in the car if it is not insured. Just not worth the risk!

That's what I think I'll do, was just asking in case you had come across it on your search for the tool and chose not to order it for a particular reason. I'll order it and let you know what I find.

Cheers dude, I appreciate that the better thing to do would be remove the head and do this however most people just put up with the smoke at start up and repeatedly say this is ok/without serious consequence. I have a leaky cam cover seal so I thought I'd replace them which then led we to think about changing the cams for some 264/264's whilst I'm in there which then again led me to think that it would be a good opportunity to change the stem seals too. As far as I know I didn't have a problem with abnormal det before (when recently mapped by Matt he didn't mention any) and I've not even seen 1000 miles on fresh oil since that day plus my seals aren't majorly bad compared to some so I think that I should be ok here and changing the seals should at least prevent any further build up as you say. With this in mind, shouldn't the general advice on the forum be that as soon as there is sign of leaky stem seals that they are changed immediately rather than the laid back attitude towards leaky stem seals, especially with pushing the stock twins further and further where det is more likely? Oh, and the original question still stands is the cheaper, non knarled version suitable for the job? I'm going to be taking my precious time to ensure I don't mark the head/bucket bores etc as time is not an issue as much as it would be in the trade.