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It will run it no problems, what resolution will you run at? Crysis runs fine on my Radeon 4890 OC in high settings and that card is better so as long as the rest of your rig can keep up! Your i5 should do the trick however Crysis I think is one game that does benefit from quad core CPU's - it should be fine though.

Looks real good even in pics What colour is your car? Just wondering why you went for red? Certainly looking forward to getting mine now! Thanks for the pics!

Windows 7 has something like this built in but it's results should be taken with a pinch of salt as mine nearly maxes out except for my hard drives which it moans about, even though my hard drives fast by todays standards. It's simply saying that my bottleneck is my hard drive at the moment. more info here Back on topic though, that build looks tidy and you probably saved a penny or two over a pre-built PC of similar spec?

BTW forgot to say that you should really use the correct benchmark that closely represents the tasks you would mostly use the PC for. For instance, there is no use in running 3D Mark when benchmarking a PC designed for performing well in photoshop or video editing as it will most likely have poor 3D graphics capability but it would usually excel in the CPU, memory and hard drive access benchamarks. Your benchmarks on 3Dmark are comparably low due to the budget GFX cards you are using

It's just a benchmark CJ, for geeky willy waving contests! Not much different to a Dyno figure in that if I get a higher score then my PC should be more powerful than yours and thus run games in higher settings and smoother frame rates. Unfortunately the results cannot always be relied upon as a certain pieces of hardware might be particularly efficient at a certain operation that the benchmark uses to measure performance and thus bloats the values somewhat.

Most cars are 17 or 19mm though on one of my runarounds I found that someone had put an odd 21mm nut on it

I think places like Machine Mart sell a tool for removing these however I've not looked into how they work so they may/may not be applicable here however it wasn't expensive. Other than this I think all you can do is find a socket that it just too small to fit and bash it over the locking nut and remove the nut (you'll probably have to chuck the socket out along with it. Last option, perhaps a bolt can be welded to the locking nut which could then be turned? Im no welder though but someone one here should be able to advise if you could weld to hardened steel ok.

Ash phoned me last night to say mine are being delievered this week. I'm looking forward to the results!!!

Only one I could get a good price from with any agreement on the value of the car was Adrian Flux. I'm paying just shy of £700 @ 27 years old, max NC bonus. I'm hoping it will drop this year They were good on the phone and knew what I was talking about when I told them it was a single turbo etc. I'd shop around though! Good luck tomorrow

Couple of inches might be an exageration but it is definately more than 5mm. My manifold is wrapped so that will definately helps - the silicone coupler that goes onto the turbo outlet is about as close as the oil drain and that hasn't been affected by the heat so I'd say heat wrapping it and routing the oil drain for as much clearance as possible will be adequate. I can't say how much heat insulation coating the manifiold provides as mine is only wrapped but I would have thought wrapping provides more insulation Wrapping the drain will help if it's still too close for comfort but first route the drain the best you can for the most clearance while still keeping the drain vertical enough for gravity to drain the oil.

I would think it needs to be as far away as possible but defo not in contact with the manifold due to conduction transferring much more heat than emmission. As it bolts to the central turbo housing then there is only so much clearance you can get but I have at least a couple of inches on mine from memory.

Is there a 6 Speed version on there Matt? Hope I'm not just being dumn but I can only find a 5 Spd one. Will be a shame if they don't do a 6 Speed one as you're right, it does look nice

Yeah you're right, I'd have to get desperate! I've got a stock one already but all the leather has come off. I just checked ToyoDIY and they were less than this from Mr T himself at some point so I'll see if my local Toyota dealer can do any better! Still interested in buying one from a member though if they have one!

As per title, I'd like to source a genuine 6 speed gearknob - must be in mint condition Sometimes people seem to have a spare one they don't want so just seeing if they have before I see how much Mr T wants for one.

LOL @ the turbo simulator!! Why on earth are we spending all this money on Single turbos etc when we could have one of these!!! 2x41tFQKl7U

Does look cool although I must admit I'm a sucker for gauges with needles. I've got boost, AFR and will soon buy an EGT. Only gauge I have without needles is the AEM wideband but it kind of still has a needle! Don't forget you need to plug that HKS gadget into and aftermarket monitor so budget for that too.

lol! Belongs on Failblog that

Sounds very nice and alters it's speed with such ease! That would have been a great passenger ride.

I bought a head rebuild kit last month to do my valve stem seals but still have the genuine OEM metal head gasket, unopened in a box. These are roughly £90 from toyota but if you want the one I've got I'd sell it for £60 poseted? After that spec list, I figure you could use a discount!

A new one will need to be soldered/crimped on but where one can get one of these I don't know. I'd be checking Maplins & CPC catalogue for it but I have no idea what the connector type is called in order to help you find it Matt. Perhaps there are other connectors like it on your loom which you are not & will never use again? if so you could remove one of them and use it to replace the broken coil pack connector?

Speed awareness courses are only offered if speeding in a 30 zone between 31 and 39mph. Does here in Bristol anyway.

Yep, did the same here It's that last 10 you add!

After getting the first one wrong I knew what was going on so was getting them all right until that Maths one and had to work it out on a calculator to believe it and work out where I was going wrong! Very clever

If comparing all aftermarket exhausts on a TT I'd place the Nur Spec R + double de-cat in the middle of the scale (maybe slightly louder) but on the TT setup I loved the sound of it. Here's my TT with double de-cat at idle, part throttle and WOT just to give you a taste of what's coming your way Josh g0I_Cgrjkm4

Yeah FIPG, I used Hylomar Blue as Chris Wilson recommended. There is a washer that sits under each of the nuts/bolts that hold the cam covers on. These have rubber seals on the bottom which will have harderned into plastic if they are originals which means they probably won't seal again if re-used. Order separately with the following part number but they came with the head rebuild kit I bought for doing valve stem oil seals. Part no. 11201B WASHER, SEAL (FOR CYLINDER HEAD COVER) http://www.internetwork.org.uk/part_num/eng_fuel/1104.htm