leelbuk

Gladly! Clicking sound has been doing my nut in!

Ah rite, cheers Nic. It looked like it held pressure but I didn't think about use of actuators off boost As I'm single then, I should be able to get rid of it and just block off the pipes? I haven't checked where the pipes go but as I don't have any of these actuators any more then I suspect I probably don't even need to plug them.

Anyone know what this VSV & Canister Below Intake Runners 5 and 6 does? I found it when removing fuel pulsation dampner today and I think it's the source of a clicking sound that I can hear in the engine bay ever since I had the AEM EMS installed. The clicking would occur if just turning the ignition on and would be contant unless you were giving the AEM something intensive to do such as upload a MAP or change a large amount of cells so the AEM definately controls it in some fasion. Can it be removed without affecting anything?

Cheers Ryan, sounds like I'll go for that combo then. Been reading supraforums and they seem to be giving the FIC the thumbs up! I think ID injectors come in 11mm or 14mm variety so should be able to match with the rail. Hopefully someone will spot this post who can advise if the 14mm variety are what I need so I can order both from the states. Was about to try with the 550's when I found the issue with the 850's actually! I needed to remove the rail to try and get the SARD injector collars out of it but decided whilst I had the rail separated from the runners but still pressurised to do some testing on the SARDs and they were seized completely apart from one which opened when briefly energised but then remained open! Every time I get them unstuck and put them back in again I can get all 6 cylinders firing briefly and then one by one they stick again so I think they need to go in the bin! Won't buy 2nd hand injectors again, it's just not worth it

Wondering if anyone can advise on whether the Fuel Injector Clinic (FIC) fuel rails are any good in respect to quality and fitting? I notice a few of you have them so I'd assume they are generally ok but I don't know how much work you had to do to fit them compared with a more expensive rails such as the PHR, Titan, HKS items? On the same subject, what injectors are compatible with these? I've been reading that US/Euro spec means the 14mm diameter type and J-spec types are 11mm? I was thinking of going for the FIC rail and the 720cc Siemens injectors from PHR? Or possibly ID725's if they'll fit the FIC rail? I think I'll need pigtails too? Seems a good price for the lot but I'd pay more if something was markedly better or there was something wrong with this combination

Thanks Chris, I think it's safe to say that these are beyond repair and will never give me confidence to run them in the engine. It's certainly a mechanical issue with them as the pintle will not move when energised by a 9v battery like they normally would and give you the audible click. Also when I put them in the rail, pressurise it with fuel and then apply the 9v, not a drop flows. I have since tried this again after the 'oven treatment' and they will then squirt fuel when energised and completely seal the rail (and maintain residual pressure) when not. I could put the whole lot together now after the oven treatment but there's a good chance of them seizing again so I think it's time to bin them. For the sake of a hundred quid or so it might be good for me to go with a new fuel rail and some top feeds. Do these top feed rails fit where the stock rail fits or is modification required? I also assume it fits without fouling the intake plenum?

Right, I think I already know what I have to do here but I thought it best to get a second opinion on this. I have been having issues with fueling on my new single build and it turns out that my side feed SARD 850cc injectors are sticking (1 open, 5 closed). The weird part: these were cleaned by a local company. The injectors started sticking again once fitted so then they were both cleaned and flow tested by Chris Wilson. CW reported that one of them had an iffy flow pattern which was solved after cleaning for a while however the rest were ok. He recommended changing the iffy one for new which is wise but the injectors seem to not be sticking. The problem now is that I have fitted these again, yet after running the car for 5 to 10 minutes they start to stick again and I eventually cannot start the car and they will no longer click when energised briefly with a 9v battery. It seems after warming up a little they stick is my only guess. Also, I've found that if I remove the injectors and heat them in a warm oven they will free and then continue to stay free even when cold. They will then seal perfectly and open perfectly as though brand new and will no doubt run the car again. I have no idea what is going on in the injector but I suspect as soon as I run fuel through them they will stick again! So there's the problem. Right now all I want to do is throw them in the bin and buy new and that's all I think I can do but as they are expensive (and in case I am being stupid) I thought I'd ask. 1. Should I replace the injectors? 2. If so, am I safe buying SARD's again, even 2nd hand? Was I just unlucky with this set or is this common? (only reason I ask is that I recently saw that another member has a set for sale at a decent price but I don't no what the risks are) 3. If not another set of these, what injectors would anyone recommend to fit and should I keep the stock rail or go for top feeds? My goal is 530-550BHP with the 6262 and may go to a slightly larger later however I don't think I'll want any more that approx 600BHP in future so perhaps changing the fuel rail is overkill? Sorry for the long read and I appreciate any help anyone can give, even if it's just to tell me to stop clutching straws and cough up another grand for injectors!

Hi Bignum, happy to answer especially if it helps keep me on the right path! I'm only buying the check valve to rule out the possibility of residual pressure being the cause as I really have no idea what else to think. I agree that vapour lock is unlikely as I've read it is uncommon in cars like the Supra but it is the only problem I have read about with similar symptoms. I'm happy to explore other possibilities that have similar symptoms if anyone knows any 1. are the injectors new, - No. 2nd hand from a member but had very little mileage on them due to the car being written off. Chris Wilson checked them for me and found that 1 injector had a slightly poor spray pattern but an extra clean sorted this. I have pulled the rail from the head and pressurised the system with fuel and nothing leaks from the injector nozzles or the rail and if I clamp off the fuel feed pipe (near the J-pipe/pulsation dampener) the rail will hold static pressure for 10-20mins easy. 2.what make are the injectors SARD 850cc High Imp side feeds - same as Blitz 850 side feeds and require a collar to fit stock rail. When I checked rail for leaks first time I found the lower o-rings weren't quite large enough to seal very well (would leak under pressure if injector was disturbed) so replaced with larger o-rings and now it totally seals even if injector is twisted in the rail whilst rail is pressurised. 3. what ecu are you using AEM EMS v1 4.have you had a look at the map yet I had Ryan round to do my startup map when the problem became apparent and it is supposedly setup ready to start which it does, but after warming and revs drop it stops running so well so I suspect the warm running needs tweaking but to try and eliminate that I let the car cool down again completely and tried starting again from cold without altering anything and it refuses to fire. Not even a splutter. After cranking for a decent time I then removed the plugs, none of which seemed wet with fuel etc so assuming it's no longer getting any. An option I possibly haven't explored with the injectors is if they weep when warm, but then again once the car cools down it still won't start.

Just took mine apart and it seems it's not a check valve at all and the restriction in the pump is causing the residual pressure to drop slowly rather than instantly - just ordered a valve from Burton power so hopefully that should stop this and I can test again. If it's not this then I can only think of putting my 550cc injectors & resistor pack back on and testing againwhich would put the entire system back to how it was apart from the fuel pump itself.

Do the walbros have a check valve? Only reason I ask is that I didn't have the problem before and if the walbro has no check valve then I should be forgetting this check valve business and focusing elsewhere.

Thanks Chris, is this the one with the banjo fitting that comes out 90 degrees? My check valve definitely seems dodgy so could be worth changing. Anyone know where I can purchase another? This is what mine looks like at the moment:

Thanks for the reply Wez - seems like a wild goose chase then if you can run fine without however if my residual pressure drops within 5 or 6 seconds of priming then the injectors might not be able to fire much fuel into the engine? At this rate it might be easier to get a new rail and some tops feeds as I can't get my head around this problem. Since the car was running before all I have changed fuel wise i the pump and injectors so it will most likely be one of the two.

Does anyone here use a 044 with the standard check valve fitted and know roughly how long you sustain residual fuel pressure for? How important is it that this is retained? (May have bearing on my predicament) I have just finished putting together my single and have an issue with starting it and running it. If I fit the injectors and start the car the engine fires instantly and runs, but after it warms up a little and I stop the engine it won't start again at all and doesn't seem to ever want to start again (have left overnight to cool in case it was related to warm start on the map etc). It has only then started again once I have removed and refitted the injectors whilst I have been troubleshooting. As I wasn't confident in the injectors CW kindly flow tested the injectors for me but they are fine (one needed cleaning). I have re-fitted them and the engine fired up but yet again after warming up the car would run progressively worse and not start again. I then wasn't confident about the injectors sealing in the rail properly so I partially removed the rail and pressurised the system and could spot no leaks but noticed my residual fuel pressure would still drop to 0psi after only 5 or 6 seconds. I then started to clamp off various parts of the system and narrowed it down to the check valve on the fuel pump - If I prime the system and then clamp off the pipe between the check valve and the pipe at the top of the hanger then I retain my static fuel pressure (43psi) for 10/20 mins no problem so the rail, injectors, regulator and all connections should be leak free. How likely is this to cause problems? Could this be a symptom of vapour lock? Only reason I ask is that I'm a complete novice at this and rely on reading up on this. After doing some reading I have read about problems such as vapour lock being caused by lack of residual fuel pressure and wondering if this could be affecting me. So far it is the only thing that can explain to me why my engine will run for 5-10 mins and then refuse to start again after this when I haven't changed anything. Only thing I can think about doing now is replacing the check valve and putting everything back together. If this doesn't work I am completely stumped as to what is causing this. If anyone can advise me I'd appreciate it. I'm absolutely itching to drive this!

An incorrectly wired or faulty speed delimiter (and possibly converter) can cause a code 42. Check the pink wire that goes to into the connector on the back of the odometer too as mine broke off there and caused an error 42.

Double post, no idea how that happened

Are you talking about the ones that are on the upper rad pipe elbow? I got some rubber caps from Whifbitz that do the trick for them and the one below the water pump but for ultimate tidiness the ones from the upper rad pipe can be welded over.

How much you think a kit with some drop in injectors would be worth? Only reason I ask is I've just taken a similar kit off mine to fit the 6262 and have no idea how to price it. Mine has the smaller exhaust housing though so is quicker spool but makes slightly less top end power. I'm sure pairing the kit I have with some drop in injectors and an aem fic won't cost 10k but as Matt says, his is over engineered and could handle a larger turbo in future.

Nice result Matt - was worth the wait in the end!! Looking forward to the dyno to see how that GT30 spools Stay safe on way home!

Without meaning to sound cocky I must be a lucky guy then! I got my renewal notice through yesterday and it's dropped £20. I'm still going to ring around again as I've always managed to knock a fair chunk off simply by doing this but I think I'm pushing my luck this time.

I reckon the above too. When the getrag is cold it's hard enough to select reverse even when the clutch is fully disengadged.

Right then, I got mine back end of last week and finally took some photos today. I must say I'm pleased with the look of it and very happy wih the work done by Ash! I think some metal dash rings should finish it off and break up the black a little

I really don't understand how these insurer's calculate these 'one off' quotes for singles. I am paying £697 with Adrian Flux for the same sized (GT30) single as you at 27 with 7yrs NCB. Could have been lucky I suppose, but also the area I live in is regarded as very safe and that will have a marked effect on the price. I'd stop worrying about insurance prices though and start enjoying the car!

Here's mine that I recently put together Now if only I could get her started

I can see why some would like alcantara more than flocking. The thing that puts me off alcantara is that it marks where you touch it. If I went with alcantara interior I think I'd develop OCD and have to clean the dash by brushing it all in the same direction!!

Unfortunately the camera is lying to you when it comes to these flocking photos as the flash catches on the fibres and makes everything look shiny and speckley when it actually isn't in ambient light. I've just got my dash panels back after being flocked and will take some pictures with my SLR this weekend without the use of a flash - should show you what flocking looks like to a human eye.