tDR

He's a very nice man...

Chris Wilson on this BBS sells an uprated Supra SMIC. May be worth a go. The standard unit is regarded as none too good. Brian.

Don't have a

nah Big S, just in case mine was 'different'

Done it today, worked a treat Just so people know it does indeed work.

Cheers. Will give it a go.

Just found this: How to turn off the airbag light Problem: Disconnecting the connector behind the upper dash piece where the odometer is located while the ignition key is turned on will result in the airbag light staying on. Here's how to turn it off : Go under the hood and open the diagnostic cap located on the passenger-side near the firewall (see photo). Look for AB & TC. Make two plugs with wire to fit into these connectors. With the ignition key turned to the ON position alternate the two wires to the negative terminal of the battery. They need to be done in a consistent rhythm, about one second apart. TC,AB,TC,AB,TC,AB... This needs to be done several times. If you can't get it to work, try adjusting the speed. It is helpful to have someone look at the airbag light while performing this to let you know when the light goes out/blink. ^^ Sound accurate? It's for the US spec, mine is J Spec GZ Auto.

quote: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Originally posted by redline Rooster other wise you WILL trip you airbag warning system and you'll have to take it to Toyota for them to reset it!! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ^^ As above, managed to trip the air bag warning light by turning the ignition on with the top part of the dash removed whilst wiring up chip / fog etc. Yes, I know I'm a donkey Question is, how do I extinguish it myself so I don't have to take it to Toyota? (Already done a search to find the above quotes)

Jon - you're not having much luck m8! Hope it gets sorted OK.

Toyota original pads are far superior from what I hear......

Sacrillage! They look like Ford Probe wheels!

45 not the normal offset?

Good going Matt, be great to get a deal with them.

Just to add some figures - I'm 22 with 0 yrs NCB (been driving under other people for the last 5 yrs), no claims / convictions and I have a '92 MR2 G-Limited Import, uprated suspension, mildly modified front bumper and a few interior changes. I live in the EH55 postcode area (rural Scotland). Here were my quotes: Dorset - £821 Fully Comp. with £120 Excess (Full 12 Month Policy, everything declared, no security requirements) Elephant - £1,020 Fully Comp. with £250 Compulsory Excess + £150 Voluntary Excess = £400 Total Excess (10 Month Bonus Accelerator Policy, mods not declared, Cat 2 Immobiliser required) Bell Direct - £949 Fully Comp. with £250 Compulsory Excess + £150 Voluntary Excess = £400 Total Excess (10 Month Bonus Accelerator Policy, mods not declared, Cat 2 Immobiliser required) Directline - £1,276 Fully Comp. with £150 Excess (Full 12 Month Policy, mods not declared, Cat 1 Alarm / Immobiliser required) Tesco - £1,247 Fully Comp. with £175 Excess (Full 12 Month Policy, mods not declared, Cat 1 Alarm / Immobiliser required) Herts Insurance Consultants - Don't Cover Imports because don't you know you can't get parts or bodypanels for them! (Wankers that I promptly hung up on) Insure Your Motor.com (Lords of London) - £3,200 (!!! I didn't hang around for the details!) So to summarise, I saved a lot of money going with Dorset - Lower Premium, lowest excess and got a far superior policy (free track day cover etc etc as mentioned before) with no enforced security requirements. I'm definitely a happy bunny with 'em.

NP Matt. Excellent policies like you say and it's worthwhile pointing out the following (as per the MR2DC insurance deal): 1. To get the Insurance deal you must be a member of the MR2DC. This stands at £30 / year. It's a very good way to increase membership numbers as this rule is strictly enforced. In this vain, I think people would be good for paying £30 a year here too if they knew it would save them on insurance. 2. Dorset make no discrimination towards imports. In fact a UK car (N/A) is the same money to insure as a Jap Import GT (Turbo) so long as they are both of the same year / similar value. 3. The policy includes free track day cover and european breakdown cover, a loan car in the event of an accident (A new MR2 roadster according to Sarah at Dorset for the MR2DC deal and she seems to be the one to speak to when buying), true value consideration (inc mods) and cover to drive any other car (to the usual rules of 'with the policyholders permission').

Sorry couldn't resist, at a sane guess it's something to do with the stereo system, factory amp perhaps?

TI SI A BOMB!$"%$"$" QUIK GET OUT OF TEH CAR!"%"%"

Variable Sequential Valve AFAIK, controls the sequential boost system of the turbo's.

Sorry to hear about your problems with the wheels / spacers / wheel mania Jon. I tried to warn you m8! As others have said, you are entitled to a full refund because the wheels are not suitable for their intended purpose. As CW mentioned, spacers are a bad idea on most cars and especially bad on a heavy performance car like the Supra. Ibrar (posted earlier in this thread) is clued up on the correct wheel specs for the Supra and from what I've seen will give you a good deal on a tasty wheel / tyre package.

Wot he said ^^ There is a device that take 2 brake lights away permanently but the TRL performance solution is best.

Yes I agree the condition / grade of the car is the main thing. If it all checks out, £8k is a steal regardless of how it's been converted! To convert a Supra properly is about £500 including the cost of the SVA test. If it's already been SVA'ed OK then you are just looking at parts and then someone / your own time to fit them.

Well the el cheapo conversion is to stick on a new speedo face and hang a halfords special rectangular brick fog light onto the rear bumper / cut a hole in the rear bumper and stick in another ugly rectangular fog light. The proper way to do it is to use an electronic chip that will alter the appropriate ECU signals to make the Speedo read in miles per hour, the odo count up in miles and also delimit the Jap 112MPH restrictor. You would then either cover the k of km/h up on the existing speedo face or fit a new appropriate face, then get the car through it's SVA with a temporary hanging fog light before finishing the job by incorporating the fog light into the rear light cluster and removing the temporary hanging fog. Also, a radio band expander should also be fitted or you'll be listening to radio 3 a lot! HTH, Brian.

Far, here is my translation of the grading system that the majority of Jap Auctions use: 5 : Immaculate Condition with mileage below 60,000km 4.5: Excellent Condition 4 : Good condition 3.5: Some repair work needed or slightly higher mileage than average 3 : Lots of repair work needed or high mileage 2 : Piss poor condition 1 : Modified, Debased or Affected Car (Submergence, damaged from salt, hailstorm etc.) R : Accident damaged and repaired car RA :.Higher graded Accident damaged and repaired car R1 : Complex grading (mixture) of the above "R" and "1" RA1 : Complex grading (mixture) of the above "RA" and "1" *** : Accident damaged and not repaired car, cars for parts recycle use, non-driveable car ^^ Bare in mind that their 4 graded car could be considered as 'A1' in this country. Hence why I say 4 or above but grade 4.5 and 5 cars are very rare and command a price premium. If this 8k car checks out OK and the auction sheet isn't dodgy, you've checked the car out to see that it's structuraly sound and are happy with it after a test drive then snap it up quick cos it's VERY cheap. I personally can't see how there's any profit in it, hence why I say it seems fishy. Also remember there is converting an import and then converting an import properly. The latter being more expensive and generally not done by most importers.

Nah, he does lower 25mm with his custom valved Koni damper / different springs setup.