tDR

pmsl - so.... true to life!

Congratulations!!!

Shame to see this broken up Rob - was looking brilliant in the pics really like the choice of wheels, kit and mechanical mods Is it too far off completing to sell complete and save hassle?

Emirates will be feeling rather smug with themselves today...

There have been noted failures across a few forums in the space of a few short months.... so what determines them as being 'real good quality'? If you have a complex about buying / owning an NA then do something about it People here only enjoy pulling legs on the subject!

I like NA's. They give scoobies and the like hope.

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=231445 Price shouldn't be the only consideration.

But you now have 3x women to clothe and feed and buy horses for I agree that your T76 setup is faster than your T67 was and a T6 frame turbo setup will no doubt be faster again, the point I'm trying to get across is that you really are into the land of diminishing returns for your £££ and with it reliability increasingly goes out the window, leading to frustration that you can't drive the car when you want to and in the end you just decide 'sack it'. Not sure why I'm being all sensible about it, I myself probably won't be when I get my next Supra! Although I'm increasingly getting a chubby for proper drifting - could be a welcome focus mod wise that will keep things semi sensible on the power front.

I hear ya... but is it worth it? Your T67 based stock engine setup was stupid quick, was it not? And it never let you down.... show me a built engine that ran for say 10k+ hard miles without something going majorly wrong... I don't believe for one minute that any tuner / engine builder here or in the US is going to openly advertise when their 'uprated' built engines fail. (/me feels like the nagging missus now!!!)

IMO (and I have made the point before), built engines are hassle full stop never mind the major engine surgery to get to 3.4L. Every built engine I've followed for a while (and had personal involvement in) has given up the ghost in one way or another. I remember Leon Green saying his HKS 3.4 failed and was working with HKS to build another... no idea how many he's been through in the end. For a durable street car with blistering performance I still think the best option is keep the engine as close to how Toyota intended with a moderate size turbo kit of decent quality, appropriate fuel system and Syvecs or similar ECU controlling it assuming a manual. Like you'd started out with the black car before going built engine, bigger turbo etc. It might not be pushing the boundaries but doing that always ends up pushing the limits of available funding and giving you a less reliable setup you get to use less of the time because it ends up off the road. My 2p Cheers, Brian.

pmsl - glad it done the trick! (though I'll pass on the offer of more mini-tDR's!!!)

Right next person that cries 'dyslexia' as an excuse for piss poor spelling / grammar gets some bonus points

Looks like wheelspin given the dips and climbs to me?

I think it depends on whether you wanna run a hi stall TC also - more heat being generated is what ends up killing the boxes. I ended up running 3x trans fluid coolers on mine with a BL box and PI 3,800 stall TC. If anyone's interested, I have a spare BoostLogic built Autobox sat in my Dad's Garage gathering dust. It's 2k miles old max. and the only thing wrong with it is I managed to break the 2nd gear sprag (these aren't uprated in them) - got no drive in 2nd and had to shift 1 -> D (3) when we took it out and replaced it with another BL box. BL reckoned it was because I'd been shifting manually. I intended getting the 2nd gear sprag replaced and selling it on but have never gotten around to finding a place to do it. Make me a sensible offer and I could ship it to Dude to fit an uprated 2nd gear sprag, for example Cheers, Brian.

Congrats mate! Did you keep all the stuff from the 1st to save buying again for this one? On the names front... how about Fisher? Cheers, Bri.

Thanks David, that's an interesting insight. What did you fashion the spacers from and is there an off the shelf alternative? What about Geo adjustment over stock - particularly necessary? I know camber adjustment isn't available via top mounts like with the SX's because of our double wishbone suspension design. Does this become limiting in this respect? I'm thinking a good starter formula would be: - Supra TT Manual - FIA approved Bucket Seat(s) / Harnesses - Rear Strut Brace to attach the Harnesses to - Dished Steering Wheel - Hyraulic Handbrake - BPU power mods - Walbro or Bosch Pump - FMIC - Uprated Radiator - Koyo, Fluidyne or similar - HSD Coilovers - Extra lock mod as described by you - Kaaz or similar 2-way LSD Optionally for smoother power delivery whilst drifting: - True Twin conversion (parallel Turbo operation) with Syvecs ECU to do it properly. You'd then be set up for going single turbo for more power as needed with a suitable fuel system (larger injectors, lines, fuel pulsation dampner bypass) along with a single kit. To compete in BDC you'd then be looking at the safety related stuff, I'm not sure on this bit so please add / amend: - FIA approved Roll Cage - Battery cut-off switch and bonnet pull mounted accessible to Marshalls - Tow Eye accessible to Marshalls (spec?) - FIA approved Race Suit - FIA approved Helmet - FIA approved Gloves - FIA approved Boots I think I'm getting to I'd like to create a 'how-to' list for drifting a Supra in this respect.

I could've driven that sooo much better Awesome performing car though!

I have done already with a JZA80 and a heavier JZA70 - OK I'm not any pro drifter but I could link turns in both and keep it going for a length of time. That's interesting on the JZX's Matt - you mean Chasers and MarkII's with the 1JZ-GTE in? Those cars are heavier again than a JZA80 and won't have as much low down torque, rare single turbo VVTi 1JZ not withstanding. Is there anything that makes those a better platform than a JZA80?

That's very much where I'm coming from - I know both these cars well and for the no hassle factor the Supra is streets ahead IMO. Can you comment on the essential changes that need to be made to a Supra TT for it to drift well - steering rack? (as per Polo's observation on current drift Supras), suspension arms, that kind of thing?

Have split this conversation out from Polo's project thread to keep it on topic. Input welcome!

Thanks Polo - I was taking this off topic with my ramblings so have copied your above post and moved my reply to a new thread here to get a seperate discussion going. Appreciate if you could share your knowledge and experience as it's something a number of our members could be interested in. Cheers, Brian.

Thanks for the info! So wrong way round on the back and correct way on the front? What about which tyres to use in general - is it still a case of anything will do up to serious competition level? Have seen ads for Maxxis drift tyres etc. now. Not enough power in the E36's for me and I don't know 'em - I know Supras and SX's. If using a Supra I'd look for as cheap as possible a TT manual that had lowish miles but bodywork condition unimportant with drifting in mind and potential damage. Any further info on what the Supra is lacking to make it drift at competition level? Why Nissan racks, for more steering lock or for another reason? I just want to get an idea of what needs changing other than the usual stuff (Coilovers, 2-way diff etc.). Both cars were BPU kinda level - I just found the S14 much more natural in terms of balance and that it had more steering lock which helped loads. Also the higher torque lower down over my CA18DET was noticeably useful to keep drifts going as speeds slowed. Not sure I agree - I was part of the SX scene up here a few years back and recall many S14/a / SR20DET owners with spray bar related issues, head damage as a result of that and the economy cam lobe design, really tappety heads from the hydraulic tappets needing replaced, head gaskets going, VVT rattles and oil leaks etc. Also builds for power needed cylinder liners, different head gaskets, lash killer kits for the heads as well as the usual different turbo, fuelling, ECU tuning. That's before we talk about gearboxes - they're all too easy to kill in my experience especially with drift type abuse. Contrast that to the 2JZ-GTE / v160 Getrag combo which is pretty bulletproof on the reliability front and £ for £, factoring in reliability and level of power / torque I'd say you're much better off with the Toyota parts. Which brings me to... know of any off the shelf kits to put a 2JZ-GTE / v160 into an S14a? I know a while back there were kits on the go to fit the gearboxes attached to RB25DET's in RWD Skylines and VG30DETTs in 300ZX's to the SR20DET's in the S14/a's to address the weak standard gearboxes - thinking maybe an S14a with a transplanted engine / box is a good way to go for a reliable drift setup if it's not too much hassle to do. Cheers, Brian.

Cool project - really like the look of these kitted up What reason do you run them backwards? I put a set on backwards on my S13 by mistake a few years back on a spare set of rims for drifting - just had cheap crap ditchfinder tyres on, seemed to really chew them up like that. Was an airfield type surface (Crail up here). Back then there wasn't a UK championship when I had my S13 and also when I drifted my JZA70 so I was just arsing about. Would really like to get into drifting properly now but I've got no suitable car at the moment so contemplating using a Supra TT manual. Any opinions on using a MKIV Supra? For example, I drifted a friends S14a and found it was a much more natural drift car than my S13 so came to the conclusion that was the one to use back then - I'm still tempted to go that way but now most of the S14/a's seem to be riddled with rust and I can't be arsed with that along with the less reliable nature (compared with 2JZ's) of the SR20DET's. There's also power and torque vs. weight to consider - the Supra being heavier but with the higher output engine with lots of scope for more power whilst maintaining reliability. Cost wise a Supra TT manual is more to buy in the 1st place vs. an S14a by a good chunk but I'd say worth it to get a rust free shell with a reliable high output base setup. Re-shelling, should the worst happen, isn't too big an issue with NA's available from around £2k now. What's the best route into drifting now assuming I have a car to start with? BDC license day at Knockhill then I can compete if I can obtain a license? Cheers, Brian.