tDR

Glad this guide is still proving useful Those Toyota drop-links really are the stuff of nightmares!!

Amen to that - mine are 5yrs and 2yrs now and all my time outside work is spent doing stuff with them. Good fun though!

Depends how you drive it. I killed a stock autobox around 400bhp.

Man the fcuk up

I've always been of the opinion hybrids are a waste of money - a false economy compared with going small single for that bit extra by eliminating the most restrictive item in the chain which is the stock mani, giving you a safer setup in the process which is typically far less laggy with the right turbo choice. Both hybrids and a small single need the same supporting mods and with the single - being a brand new rather than remanufactured stock core - you avoid the high probability of the hybrids failing not long after install - the hybrids have a worryingly high failure rate. If you need proof of hybrids pretty much being a waste of time over stock turbos, have a look at the drag racing hall of fame thread.

How do you manage to bin it at Crail??

Very nice build - congratulations!

Yes for the same reasons.

Better selling the NA and buy a TT or go down the TT conversion route - still IMO. NOS is like premature ejaculation.

Nice!

Hi and welcome The way to get best stand may be to include the different generations in a timeline type display if we can get a mint MKIII (ideally my old JZA70 as it looked the best I've seen with the Bomex kit on it + Coilovers, JDM rims, FMIC etc as well as the base car being super rare), as well as the MKII and original Celica Supras. Just an idea! Cheers, Brian.

Nice curve - good choice of spec!

I broke my TRD in with fig.8's + circles both ways in a dis-used car par park, about 20 of each at slow speed. I then dropped the oil and refilled with fresh Silkolene BOA mineral diff oil as recommended by Opie. There's also recommendation not to exceed 85mph for the first 1,000 miles or so in case of bearings overheating but I didn't bother with that. My TRD then went on to normal service with no unwanted vibrations or noises I've seen from many aftermarket diffs. It was fitted with new seals and carrier bearings and never leaked. Cheers, Brian.

Where the R35 GTR has the Supra beat is in 15yrs newer tech which gets the power to the ground in a pretty untouchable way seeing it disappear out sight of many cars with more power than it, both in a straight line and in the twisties. That doesn't strictly mean it's better - the Supra is the more pure driving experience without all the computers controlling everything. It's a real quandry for me as I appreciate the technological masterpiece the R35 GTR is but also have a deep rooted need to feel like I need to bring my A game every time I get behind the wheel or I'll be in a field before I can say "shit the backend is loose". I think of the Supra as a true Japanese Musclecar - an out and out thrill to drive. It's replacement should follow a similar formula of timeless curves with a long bonnet, RWD + updated Turbocharged Straight 6 tough-as-old-boots engine and should offer a manual transmission along with minimal driver aids to achieve a similar thrill in the Driving experience with the same DNA. The GTR seems to Driving what Condoms are to Sex.

The latter - tappy tap tap

Scruffy lap too!

Congrats D

You were gone?

The 1JZ is a very similar engine.

That the MSB (Monkey Shit Brown) colour Toyota did?

Congrats Richie - hope she serves you well. Still capable of warp factor 9 off the lights then?

Is your TRAC ECU in place in the passenger footwell beside the main ECU? Did you have the TRAC fuse pulled under the bonnet? My car had a similar inability to get a dyno readout, last time was with Ryan and as usual it kept kicking down and trying to climb out the dyno on a power run - wouldn't lock into 3rd. My TRAC system was completely disabled with no TRAC ECU present, I was on a BL built box with a PI 3,800 RPM stall TC also. I didn't really care though as my butt dyno said the car was quick and the drag times proved it so it was ~380ish bhp fly when anyone asked as it was just a BPU On my previous 2x TT Autos, I got dyno read-outs just fine - I always pulled the TRAC fuse and they would stay in 3rd for a power run. Cheers, Brian.

Careful - detonation sounds kinda like what you describe. Could also be what sounds like a knackered Turbo going by the boost problems even in TTC. Cheers, Brian.

You used to be indecisive. Now you're not so sure.

Agreed, diagnostic tests are the best way forward. RE: being on topic: The OP also asked about uprated Radiators, amongst other things, to which you offered the view that the standard Radiator was fine with his spec. I noticed the 'Autobahn 88 Intercooler' listed in his spec list and offered the opposing view that a standard ~15yr+ old Radiator (in most cases) is somewhat marginal in that configuration, as evidenced by my own experiences. IMO, if you're replacing the Radiator and are running increased boost over stock, you are as well going with an uprated item with a larger coolant capacity, increased fin count and metal rather than plastic end tanks which in the case of many Toyotas of the era tend to go green and brittle before failing with age. Running a FMIC tends to show weaknesses with aged Radiators. Yes, a stock new replacement may keep the temp gauge in the right place but it's the same argument RE: stock or uprated when doing anything with these cars and in this case there's not much of a cost differential. I think the very act of replacing the rad - done properly - sees a cooling performance increase as it should include a Coolant flush / replace, new thermostat and new rad cap. All on topic and useful information for other members now and for future searches.