SUPRASUZUKI

Great. I drive into my garage and can't get out of the car.....

£2800 cheap? What planet are you from?

Remember to keep your legs closed on the way down, it'll stop you whistling... Seriously though, well done, I'll donate something as my grandad died of this a few yers ago.

Maybe you know this already, but best not to drive it with the fan out of balance. You'll only end up breaking something else....

I'm sure I used standard M8 bolts, not fine pitch, when I took mine off. The bolts will be tight due to the crap in the threads.

You get towed off the circuit into the paddock by the marshalls. Then you call the AA / RAC because you "were there to watch your mate, and your car broke down just as you were leaving for home". Not that I've done this before you understand, but it does work.

£7 is a good price, I'm sure I was quoted £20ish per ring (not by Whifbitz, just to be clear)

How old are the units? You may find that they'll never move..... Mine (Teins also) were rusted to fcuk and immoveable when I bought the car (I think they'd been on since day 1). When I tried to move them a peice of the ally locking ring came away under the load of the C spanner (+ a small tube for extension). The fracture surface was quite corroded so had obviously been open to a degree for some time. I just finished it off. New locking rings and spring platforms all round were going to work out expensive so I decided to go for new units.

My cooler's mounted with the ports at the top. I know others have mounted theirs with the ports at the bottom. Whether it makes a difference or not I don't know? Flow and return ports on the stock cooler can be seen here - http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=65231&highlight=tranny

What do you use the car for? If you're taking it to a track I'd deffinitely go for a cooler. Dumping heat from the transmission flluid via an extra cooler will aslo help keep coolant temps down.

Anybody got a cold air duct they don't need?

Bollox. I've just come in from welding mine up:d

My GSXR600 used to get about 130 before the light came on. I managed the best part of a 20 minute session on a trackday with the light on (on the GSXR1000), so 20 miles or so.

Some do, some just have a reserve capacity in the tank which you switch to as the bike splutters to a standstill.......

110's not too hot, but obviously could get out of hand in traffic after a spirited drive (specially in the summer). I'd go for a bigger cooler with a thermo controlled fan on the back personally. How big's your current cooler? Just out of interest, what size are the ports on the cooler (not really pertinent to temp, just interested.)

It is. Interesting to hear you've got high temps with it removed Simon. Either put it back on or, as you say, put a fan on the back of the oil cooler. How hot is the oil getting?

That's 1/2" to 3/8" hose tails mate, not hose. The 1/2" thread screws into the female port in the cooler whilst the 3/8" hose fits onto the other end.

Phone your local vets and check / leave your details. I did this when our cat went missing. He was at the vets after being hit by a car (the driver had the good grace to take him there) but he was DOA. Hope you have a better luck mate. RIP Henley:(

Don't know if it helps but I bought the following - T47730-14260 Disc Calliper FR T47750-14270 Disc Calliper FR T43512-14200 Brake Disc FR T43516-14030 Brake Disc FR T04945-14110 Shim Kit, Brake FR T04465-14150 Disc Pads, FR T04947-14010 Fitting Kit, FR T42431-14150 Brake Disc Rear X2 T47730-14270 Disc Calliper Rear T47750-14280 Disc Calliper Rear T04946-14030 Shim Kit, Brake Rear T04948-14010 Fitting Kit, Rear T04466-14040 Disc Pads, Rear £1025 (including delivery) from here - http://www.cheaptoyotaparts.co.uk [email protected] I also bought Goodridge hoses and Halfords 5.1 fluid separately. This included everything I needed. The only complaint I've got is the dust from the stock pads, but you're going a different route so not really applicable. I chose stock pads first, so if / when I go aftermarket I can gauge any difference.

Rob, did you check the run-out of the discs when you fitted them?

You'll need 10mm (3/8") ID oil and heat resistant (up to 125deg C should be ok) rubber hose and hose clips to match. Mount the cooler first, then measure the length required for each run. Looks like you'll need 1/2" NPT to 10mm (3/8") hose tails & thread sealant. Go for 90 degree elbows as these will make installation easier. Take the cooler to your local hydraulic parts supplier and explain what you need. He should be able to sort you out. Can't help with mounts, I made mine out of 50mm x 3mm ally strip. There are some usefull M8 holes in the side of the chassis leg for locating the mounts (presumably these are where the active spoiler mounts??). Use rubber bobbins to isolate the cooler from excessive vibrations. Wherever the hose runs close to bodywork protect it to stop it chaffing. 15mm lagging held with cable ties works well for this (domestic plumbing stuff). If you have to cut holes anywhere to run the hose, then use rubber grommets as the edge of the hole WILL cut through the hose over time. Hope this helps.

Sad memories of watching the events at Hilsborough. With the Bradford fire and general hooliganism, the 80's were a bad time for football.

Good call, although the engine could acutally be breaking (as in breaking up). I hope not, of course.

The guy firing the gun is less than 2 meters from the bullet as it leaves the barrel. He seems fine to me........

Sad news. RIP mate.