mwilkinson

You do get wind buffeting, but it never bothers me as I never drive around with the windows open. If it's too hot i just put the aircon on, sit back and relax listening to the radio. No dust or road noise to bother me. Alternatively you can just buy the air deflector as mentioned above.

Take one for a test drive. It's a great car. Most people who don't like it have probably never seen one in real life or ever driven one. I've only ever seen 3 others on the road in my 2+ years of ownership. I live in the SE and commute around the M25 everyday. They get loads of attention, which can be a negative if I'm honest. Getting in and out is an art, especially in restricted areas. I can't imagine it's any worse than other similar sized sports cars. Cabin in comfortable, packed with tech. Sound system could be better and it doesn't have android auto - which is a pain. It's incredibly agile and responsive, especially in sport mode. You should be able to pick up a car with a good saving over new now. The 8 speed auto is amazing and I see no benefit to having the manual - it is slower. If you want to control the gears you can pop it into manual mode and use the paddles. Dealer network support is absolute garbage. Toyota UK really have done themselves a disservice with this car and after sales support.

I've got a GR Supra. It's my daily. I bought it new and have had it just over 2 years. In that time I've done about 32K miles. It's a 3ltr Pro auto. They are a great car.

With those power goals you'll need an FMIC. I desperately wanted to stick with a SMIC and run 600bhp, but it's not really achievable. You can run one, but from the experience of others it will quickly heat soak and you'll loose power.

Ditto. Interested in fitment.

Where did you get the carbon radiator surround?

Are you on the US Supra forum too? If there are any issues with MVP I suspect it will be on there. They may also have a traders page you can post a request for contact / update.

Thanks Rob.

Nicely done. That housing definately needed some TLC. What was the galv spray that you used Rob? I may use the same on my door brackets.

I do struggle with air pressure. I can't maintain a constant flow and have to prime and pull. You get into a rhythm after awhile. I'm running a 3HP 14cfm Wolf Dakota, with a 100l tank. Like you I think it more like 10cfm at around 8 to 9 bar. It gets worked quite hard whilst using the cabinet. I'm currently running it off 1/4 lines although I did buy a pedal assembly and bigger lines. You can see some of this in the image in the thread. I'm not using that at the minute as I don't thing the compressor can handle it, and I'm finding the smaller line and gun setup more effective. I generally use baking soda, but you get a lovely finish on Ali from using 250 micron glass beads. On bigger items with heavy rust I'll use iron silicate.

Amazing work Rob. Very impressive.

Sorted out the factory ariel today. The factory ariel I'd purchased some years back is in pretty good condition. It needed a good clean and I manged to get a new mast, and both parts of the outer ornament. I also bought a new bolt to mount it and cleaned up the drain grommet and cut a new bit of silicone hose to replace the lost drain hose. I had the lower bracket plated when I did the bulk order over Christmas. It had some light rust, so was worth sorting out. The top of the mast was very dirty and a bit corroded. So I spent some time cleaning this area up. I also cleaned the lower rubber grommet and applied some back to black type product on it to ensure it remained pliable. I did the same to the drain hole grommet. I then attached the drain hose to the bottom of the ariel and located and installed the grommet. I then fitted the ariel to the body and placed the drain hose into the grommet. The ariel is affixed by a single bolt. I then installed the two new outer parts. I had intended on installing the new mast, but I ran a test on the motor once installed, and having inspected the current mast I decided it was in pretty good condition and didnt need to be swapped out. I'm going to keep the new mast as a spare instead.

I also installed the front wiper motor. Paul Cheshire had refurbished this for me a few years back, so this was a simple bolt in job. I also tested and installed the third brakelight.

Next I needed to rebuild the electrical connector. I first inserted the pins. Next I inserted a small plastic section. I then installed the rubber seal. I wiped this is a silicone lubricant before inserting. There is then a final plastic insert. You then have to affix the plug bracket using a single phillips headed screw. I also used loctite thread lock as this secure a section of the upper wing mirror to the lower. You can then install the lower rubber seal. This will stretch over the various assembled parts. I then installed the new mirror glass. All I then needed to do was attach them to the doors. This is done with 2 x M10 nuts.

A few updates. I've now rebuilt the wing mirrors and these are installed. I started of by refurbishing the aluminium brackets that are part of the lower section of the wing mirror. I media blasted them in my cabinet and then repainted them a colour as close to the OEM colour as I could get. This was a Range Rover metallic green colour. Next I needed to clean the motor up and reseal the motor cover and the area where the loom exists the motor housing. Both these seals were in need of refurbishment. Having cleaned up the parts I bought a butyl tape to replace the previous seal. I had to cut strips of the tape from the main role. I then sealed the cover and used a white silicone to seal up the loom exit from the motor housing. The next step was to reattach the studs to the aluminium painted base peice. I had the studs plated along with all the other screws and nuts needed for the wing mirrors. I then inserted the aluminium base peice into the painted section. This is then secured with 3 x phillips headed screws. Next I inserted the motor back into the main painted part of the wing mirror. This is then secured in place with 2 x phillips headed screws. There are 2 x further screws that need to be inserted at the base. I then needed to join the two halves together. The two parts are held together with 2 x phillips headed screws. These also needed to have thread lock applied to ensure they don't unwind with vibration - this is as per factory.

Yam6 is legit and possibly the cheapest place for parts anywhere. I've bought loads of parts through them.

Have you opened the module to see if it's a simple dry solder causing the issue?

I love it when people get sucked into the rabbit hole of refurbishment. It's an easy trap to fall into It's why my car is taking so long to rebuild. I've just spent 2 weeks just rebuilding the wing mirrors!

I think it clips into the front aluminium bumper bar. https://www.mkivsupra.net/topic/161006-fitting-clock-with-outside-temp/?do=findComment&comment=2260580

There does seem to be a bit of a resurgence in old Supra owners looking to come back into the fold. Maybe because prices have dropped from a few years back?

Good spot. It's not actually part of the magnetic shelf storage, but just lives there when not being used.

Welcome to the club Robert.

I then attached the backing plates. These were also cleaned and sprayed with Eastwood Plastic Resurfacer. I was able to just pop these back onto the rivets. I then reattached the clips for the door release. I've used some castrol LM grease to lubricate the handle slide area. I then found the two locks and placed these into the handle, making sure the two little plastic clips overlaped correctly. You can read up on the rebuilding of the locks on page 12. This included purchasing a new drivers lock and changing the keys / pins within the lock to match my car's original key. Installing into the door is relatively straightforward. Just 2 x M6 bolts with a 10mm head. You can see both the bolt hole locations in the next two images. Next was to affix the loom to the door. There are three clips on each side. Although not photographed, there are then two rods from the main door catch mechanism inside the door that must be connected to the handle. The larger of the two connects to the door pull mechanism. The smaller one connects to the barrel mechanism. These are easy to connect up. Finished product.

So I spent today reassembling the handles for the car. These are the main components. The black plastic parts of the handles needed to be cleaned of any overspray. I cleaned them and applied a few coats of Eastwoods Plastic Resurfacer. I then cleaned out the threads for the M6 x 1 threaded bolt holes with a tap. I also cleaned all the ancillary parts in my ultrasonic cleaner. I just used a solution of water and detergent. I then inserted both white plastic handle guides. I then had to install the latch mechanism and spring. This is a little bit challenging, especially if you don't want to scratch the hell out of the newley refurbished parts. I have a set of spare handles, so practiced this a few times on those before committing to these. All the main door handle parts are handed, and labelled as such. I bought some M6 x 3.5 cm clevis pins. I threaded these and cut them down to 3cm to act as replacement pins. I attached these and used loctite thread lock to prevent them from coming undone.

Sad news. A complete pain to now have to deal with. Fingers crossed it is just a fuel / ignition problem and easily fixed.