mwilkinson

Have you tried Keron at Extreme Performance, Lee at SRD, Paul at Whifbitz or Paul at TCB Parts?

We now need to remove the barrel from the main body and this is where it gets fiddly and could go a bit awry! The pins in the barrel are sprung, again these springs are weak, but there is enough bounce to catch you out and for pins, in particular the split pins, to fall out and cause you some inconvenience. The simple answer, if available to you, is to use the original key and insert it into the barrel and use this to retain the pins as you slide the assembly out of the body. You can then slowly withdraw the key whilst placing the barrel horizontally to the keys. I’d grip the outer part of the barrel and slowly release the pressure on the springs as you withdraw the key. Useful to note that despite it being possible to reinsert the barrel either way round into the body, it will actually only work properly in one orientation. You need to match the pin side of the barrel with the hole at the front to the part of the barrel which is open. You can see this in the image above one, the next step is to replace the pins themselves. For me this was a case of working my way through both sides of the barrel making sure the PIN number at any given position on the barrel matched that of the original barrel. The pins themselves are numbered, so this isn’t particularly difficult, just fiddly. I used some fine needle nose pliers to extract the pins and I did this one at a time. I bought two pin kits for this task. I could have rescued the original pins, but I was concerned they would be worn. I had also considered replacing the split pins with single piece pins, as they are a point of failure in the these locks. I ultimately decided to retain the split pins but replaced them with new where required. A single pin only has a single spring, whilst each half of the split pins has a spring. Once you are satisfied that you made the appropriate changes, insert the relevant key into the barrel to retain the pins and then insert this into the housing and check to see if it turns. Remember to check the barrel orientation, as detailed earlier, otherwise this could be the reason why the key still won’t turn. If your original lock is damaged or missing and you can’t get access to the boot one or the other door, or imply don’t fancy pulling the car apart to get to them, you can work out the relevant pins for the lock using the key itself. I found a few places online that detailed this. It is useful to look for TR47 info as this is the lock / key designation. Alternatively, you can buy tools that allow you to determine this sequence from one of your working locks. There are some videos on YouTube covering this. Assuming you’ve got it working, it is them just a case of reassembling the lock in the reverse order. When putting the circlip back on, remember to put it in this orientation. At the end you should have a working lock which works with your original key.

I’ve finally got round to sorting the replacement door lock for the Supra. Here is a step by step guide for anyone wanting to do the same. The important thing here is that you can replace a single lock to your original key and don’t need to replace the set. Replacement ignition, boot and door locks are still made by Auto Security Products (ASP) in the US and are available RHD specific. I’ve had to order all my door lock parts from the US. These will need to be re-pinned as I’ve done if you want to retain your original key. Door locks are code D-30-140 Ignition barrels are code C-30-138 Boot lock code B-30-159. I bought the lock from National Auto Lock Services (michaelhyde.com) and the pin kits from CLK Supplies (clksupplies.com) Here is an image of the replacement lock and the original. I’d previously removed the power door sensor from the old lock. Of note these are basically identical, even the stamped numbering on the cylinder bodies are the same. I suspect these are made by the original OEM supplier. First you need to remove the power motor sensor. This is relatively easy and you will fist need to gently pry the plastic tabs over the metal retainers. On the newer one this is easier as the plastic is relatively new. On an original part these can be brittle and could break. So if re-pinning an original lock and not a new one, take your time with this. There is then no need to get medieval on the cable tie, this will just slide up and over the lock and can be reused later. Next you need to remove the plastic face plate and metal surround from the front of the lock. There are two securing points for these two parts. The plastic part will come off easily with some gentle force. The metal part will require some mechanical leverage from a screwdriver or similar tool to push the indented metal back out slightly. The metal is thin and will easily deform, so take your time with it. Next step is on the back of the lock. You need to remove the circlip which holds the lever that connects to the main door latch motor assembly in the door itself. This can be done with a small screwdriver. You can then remove the lever itself which will just lift off. This can only be refitted in one orientation, so no need to bake your noodle remembering which way it went round. Then it’s time to remove the spring. This spring wasn’t coiled by a Titan, so it comes off relatively easily and shouldn’t take a limb or your eye at the same time. I’ve taken the liberty of adding some annotations as to where the spring lugs seat when attached to the lock. The green arrow illustrates that upon reattaching later, it is the top lug that will need to moved.

I found these: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/passive-components/capacitors/aluminium-capacitors/?applied-dimensions=4292049516,4294965481,4294466590,4294885425

Ditto. I won't sell my current setup until I've sourced a replacement set, as I may well have to reuse these.

You are spot on. I want new. I've currently got a pretty decent set of Chris Wilson Bilsteins with the gixxer drew height adjustable mod.

I've approached nearly every company that sells these, even those that say they have stock and they don't. Even Chris Wilson is unable to get them atm.

How long have you been waiting Matt?

I post this not expecting much, but does anyone have a pair of new front Bilstein B6 dampers they would sell? If anyone is in the market for Bilstein B6 dampers they will know the fronts are currently on a long back order with anticipated stock in October. I'm impatient, so let me know if you can assist.

So satisfying replacing a crusty bolt with a new one. Your update prompted me to order some of the Mikalor clamps from earlier in the thread.

Looked in good condition.

Red stock bodied Supra. Reg C19 NGO. Was in my A90 Supra on the way home through Sidcup heading for the A20/M25. Followed for a bit.

That has come up a treat. I suspect from factory it was a light sheen or matt plastic and certainly not glossy. I'd personally get some Eastwood Plastic Resurfacer and use that to bring back the deep black colour.

As others have said, great bit of work and kudos to Homer for the assist.

Don't do it. Are you sure you won't regret it?

To me this forum has been as much part of ownership as having the car itself. I tried moving away from the Supra in 2013, but got pulled straight back in, in under a year, in good part from seeing everyone's cars on here. I've definately got an addiction to this site. I check on it more frequently than any other website. Gone are the days of crazy body kits and outrageous bolt on mods without a care in the world. The members who are left, however few, are true fanatics of the car and willing to put some serious time, effort and increasingly eye watering amounts of money, into their cars to keep them on the road. I love the restoration builds being done these days. I've said it before, but I prefer these builds to egregious HP builds of old. The attention to detail is a pleasure to behold and I share in the pleasure of the owners at just how nice their cars look after all the time and effort they put in.

These do sporadically pop up for sale globally. It's a pain in the bottom having to hunt and wait, but don't give up hope of finding one.

Love the casual placement of the Porsche Carrera in the background

Those wheels are so awful. When I first looked at the images my mind was subconsciously trying to protect me and blocked them from my view.

What a collection. Mind blowing the number and quality!

I genuinely gasped when I read you could get this for under £5K. I bet this launched a host of people looking to see if they could locate the car and strike their own deal with the owner. I’d get that snapped up in a heart beat. Even if it’s a bit of a plum, it’s priced so low as to probably be worth it’s value in parts alone.

I’m with those where practicality overrules style. No point having a car with an aggressive stance that can’t go over a speed bump. Do any of those with the above stance or lower stance cars suffer from trip anxiety? I remember buying my first supra in 2006 and on the way home being unable to get into some motorway services because the car was too low. I had to reverse back up the slip road.

Looking really good

Not putting the OEM optional knee pads on?