mwilkinson

I've now finished running the fuel and brake lines under the car. I have a twin brake line setup as although the car is a facelift body, it has the non-VVTi engine, so still retains the earlier brake setup. At the front of the car there is a connector block for the brake lines to connect to and a bracket that holds the fuel lines. I do have a new brake pipe connector, but I chose to reuse my old zinc plated one. Once the pipes and brackets were all secure I refitted the pipe covers. I found out that my front one is broken at the tip, so I will need to replace this. I then installed the new bulkhead brackets so that I can start reinstalling the pipework along the bulkhead. This also allowed me to secure the fuel tank breather hose that was still flapping around in the engine bay. I reused the original zinc plated bolts here instead of the new ones I bought. I then desided to install the anti-roll brackets. These were torqued to 18Nm as per the manual. The brackets are original and have been powdercoated. Bolts are new. I have Titan anti-roll bars, so that is why the lower brackets look different. These are new lower brackets and bushings from Titan. I then installed the front heat shield. This is original and powdercoated and the bolts and nuts are all original and zinc plated.

Thanks for the tip I had to drop the whole fuel tank and start again as I forgot to install the fuel pump loom - doh! I can't believe I didn't do it on first install, but there we go. For anyone else's reference this is how the pipes and loom go.

Might be worth speaking with an ECU repair service to see if they can help. Quick internet search shows these: https://bluehawkelectronics.co.uk/services/ https://www.autotronics.co.uk/repair/services/ecu-repair https://www.ecutesting.com/about-us/

Thanks Ric. Once I've got the new brake lines in I can fit the pipe covers and finally start putting the subframes back in and get it back on 4 wheels. That will feel like an epic milestone. I need to pull my finger out and get the Alcon brakes refurbished too.

I'm back at it again. I've fitted the bonnet stoppers. The four bolts got lost during the respray, but James at Retro Road Sports came to my rescue and gave me the 4 bolts. Even better they had been zinc plated. For reference these bolts are now discontinued by Toyota. Got the fuel lines, fuel tank and ancillaries all fitted now. The three fuel lines are all brand new as are all the clips and fasteners. I replaced the rubber fuel hoses with SAE J30 R9 hoses. The OEM rubber fuel hoses aren't ethenol resistant, but R9 hoses are and are as used on modern cars. I replaced the breather hose on the fuel tank a few years ago as this was discontinued and my original was rusted badly. I installed a new clip for the fuel lines, the old one had become quite brittle. This was surprisingly difficult to fit as the bolts is made from plastic and I was terrified it would sheer as I tightened it up. I think the bolts cuts a thread in the clips as it is wound in, which is why there is quite a bit of resistance. I used my gearbox jack to position the fuel tank up into position and to fit it. I bought new tank straps and bolts. I had the fuel tank straps powdercoated because the factory finish was far too thin. Had to make sure the new flexi primary fuel line was routed under the plastic ducting on the fuel tank. This needs to be done before the fuel tanknis fitted as its next to impossible to fit this once the fuel tank is installed - I found this out the hard way! Fuel tank in and straps attached. The straps bolts need to be torqued to 49 Nm. I then ensured all the fuel pipe brackets and fixings were tightened. Next was the fuel tank guard, which had also been bought new and then powedercoated. I also had new bolts (there are 6)and the two protective strips. I retained the rubber grommet from my original fuel tank guard to reuse. This rubber grommet stops the plastic wheel arch liner rubbing on the the fuel tank guard. Not sure what the two protective strips do, but Mr T put them there for a reason. Once fitted I installed a new trim piece to hold the rear bumper to the tank guard. All finished.

A few people are still loitering on the forum, but it is very quiet. Most daily chat is on WhatsApp these days.

First Chris and now Ed, what's going on!? Perfect post, just as we would all expect.

Great to hear from you Chris. I still need to get my suspension back from you - especially before you start selling stuff off!

Doing a great job on the car. Kudos for doing it all yourself. Enjoying the updates.

Bloody he'll Scott, scary stuff! I'm very glad to hear you're OK after the heart attack and still checking in on the club. No niggle to get a Supra again?

Sorry Darryl, I've checked for the SMIC duct and it's gone. I only have my new one. I have a memory now of giving this to Mike Thompson whilst Chris W was working on his car a few years back. Sorry for the false hope.

I've got a Wurth plastic welder so I may be able to effect a repair myself - assuming I still have it.

I think I have a spare SMIC duct. It has a small notch cut out of it from memory. I've got a brand new one, so it is surplus to requirement. I'll look in my garage this evening and confirm I still have it and I'll send you some images to see if you want it.

OEM bolts have a marking system on the top of the fixing that denotes it's tensile strength. Toyota do this in a series of classes. 4T through to 11T. One of the manuals has a page explaining all the markings. But it's essentially something like this: (this isn't from the Supra manuals, just something I found on a quick search on the web).

Absolutely you can do this for non-tensile specific fixings. Plenty of M6 × 1mm pitch bolts throughout the car.

Not to worry. It was worth asking

Did you use the OEM intercooler lower pipe bracket in the second image? Do you need it? If not would you sell it?

What I'm noticing is that as original bolts, screws and nuts discontinue, Toyota themselves update the fixing number / part to a similar fixing as a replacement. The fixing itself is often a different, colour, length and sometimes design. What is consistent is the strength rating of the fixing.

I've already had a few moments of either not being able to find a bit or finding bits I have no idea where they came from. Endless hours scouring images and the internet have been done. No plans for any promo of the car, that isn't really my thing. I'll just admire and use it knowing the level of detail that has gone into the restoration.

Thanks Matt. Yes, seeing the car start to look like a Supra again does help keep me motivated. I'm just struggling to get time to work on the car at the minute, which means progress is slower - and that's not a good thing as it is slow enough in general!

A 3 year thread revival, and a cracking one at that. Nicely done!

I then installed the lights themselves.

Today I sepnt time properly installing the rear bumper and lights. Bumper bar first. Six bolts torqued to 42Nm. I then set up the brackets on the rear bumper. There are two retaining clips on the body. Ignore the fact I have 4. These are just spares I've ordered. To affix the bumper there are 6 nuts and 2 bolts. There are then 9 plastic clips along the top. Finally there is a single clip where the exhaust sits. There is another row of clips on the bottom, which will need to wait until the fuel tank and guard are installed. I then installed the number plate lighting. In order to install the rear lights I needed to put the rear lock back in first. Then to the rear lights themselves. I first had to install the clips and associated grommets, there are three of each. The side with the lock only has a single clip / grommet, the other side has 2.

It's been a fair few months since I've updated the thread and that's because I've not progressed the build much due to work and other commitment. However, I've progressed a few bits recently. I had a load of parts powder coated. I had to get my front subframe re-coated. I'd previously had this galvanised and powder coated, but it wasn't done properly and the galvanising sweated which affected the adhesion of the powder coating. I also had a number of new parts done as the factory paint is a bit thin. Ive now installed the tow hooks, front and rear. I had plated the bolts myself some years back. I've installed the rear mount supports. I also installed the charcoal cannister bracket. A few plastics clips got put in too.