8secSupra

Sounds like the ECU is in limp mode then (CALPAK). Normally caused by detonation picked up by the knock sensors, a faulty primary sensor (TPS, MAP, or O2 sensor), or by hitting fuel cut-off. If the FCD is bad, it may not allow the MAP signal to pass, and can also cause this. In the US, the first thing we check is the IC pipes! Thanks,

I assume your still running on the stock SM intercooler, and this is a UK car with the MAF. Spark plugs wont cause this. You've most likely blown an intercooler pipe. The first one to go is usually down from the throttle body by the battery. I've seen it happen dozens of time, as soon as you turn up the boost those stock hoses can give way. Check all your IC hoses and find the split or separation. This will cause the MIL light to come on because the car will run super-rich with a leak after the MAF meter (blown IC pipe). You will use a ton of fuel and the car will hardly idle on its own. Thanks,

Actually our GT60 is a proprietary wheel design we've used since 2001, not available through ITS. ITS does our turbo assembly and balancing, and we use some of their compressor covers, hence the reason why his was stamped with ITS logo. The PHR Street Kit has always used the ITS ProGate wastegate. Its a nice kit, super quick spool-up and broad torque range! Thanks,

Email me directly and I'll get you a quote with delivery. I need your address also. Thanks,

No, its the type of dyno. Most rolling roads in the UK are twin roller type, like Clayton or Autosport. This is a completely different mass than a Dynojet, which we use here in the US. I've just ran into this problem tuning Leon's car, there only seems to be a couple of good Dynojet dynos in the UK currently...

There was no "payback" from the DBB thread intended there mate! Haha Bottom line is, we were the FIRST company in the USA to develop and market a single turbo kit for the Supra MKIV, aside from Greddy and HKS (which are not US companies BTW). So we've had a few years to get it straight. The rest just followed suit. Some people love BL kits, some love PHR kits. Its a debate that will follow for years to come, but in the end, its a very personal decision based on research and budget! Free knock amp coming to you lol.... Thanks,

Not to start anything Terry, but how many BL manifolds and HKS manifolds have you seen? Your correct, both may have a tendency to crack over time as they are tubular by their very design. But over my 12+ years doing this, I've seen many more "copied" manifolds have issues than the original HKS, which is why we stand by our HKS manifolds. The cause is pretty simple, most of the attempts to copy the HKS are done in lower grade stainless and most are made in China. This is a fact. Also, please post all the facts. We upgraded the turbos on Leons twin kit to massive hybrid T28 3040s with larger downpipes and air intake piping. More weight=more stress. He did not brace them and as a result had one crack under the weight. The fact that his EGT's were sky high on that last run also didn't help. The manifolds were glowing red. Greddy manifolds are the worst I've come across, I've seen more of those crack than even the cheapest Ebay copy. Cast steel manifolds are definitely the most reliable, hence the reason why the factory turbo cars are most always done in cast steel. But, they can also be restrictive because the nature of cast manifold construction dictates how many close radius bends you can have and how the collector can be done. Its all dependent on the mold. We've had nice results with the cast manifold in our PHR Street Kits, but only after we spend time hand-porting them to suit. Wrapping does seem to increase cracking at weld joints in the manifolds and downpipes. We believe its because of the enormous heat build up under the wrap, followed by the rapid cooling Nic. Thanks,

The NA auto box uses a mechanical "kick down" from the throttle body, whereas the TT uses an electronic "kick down" from the throttle pedal through the ECU. The NA auto box is missing 2 additional VSV's and the valve body is different. They are not compatible at all sorry to say.

The peak HP numbers will be exactly the same on a 6 speed if you dyno in 4th gear or 5th gear. But, we dyno in 4th gear because its a quicker pull and you dont reach almost 180 MPH as you can in 5th. Much safer on a dyno.

I agree 100% with the above posts. For a manual 6 speed car, the 67 is the way to go. For an auto car, I'd stay with a GT60 or 61 myself, its much more fun. 700 WHP on any car anywhere is almost impossible to put down. A quick-spooling smaller turbo that makes a wide torque band is much more fun to drive on the street IMO.

You wont hear of that, as its not generally made public. I've seen a bunch of them myself, one even on Dusty's personal car before he wised up. We use the HKS manifold, never cracked, never warped, perfect fitment, and lifetime warranty. Of course I'm pro-PHR, but hey, you get what you pay for!

I think we both have good, valid points to make about the DBB turbos. I also think we can debate this over and over again for years! As to BL, I have no comment. All of the normal, large turbo companies have quite a price discrepancy between standard bearing and ball bearing turbos.

Ian, I was not trying to start any animosity between any US trader such as myself and ANYONE on this forum. I simply posed a question and was trying to make a point about OEM turbo makers and aftermarket ones. Never ONCE did I accuse you of lying or say that your data is "bullshit". Let me get some things straight here, since it seems a few folks have the wrong idea about my previous post. I sell BOTH versions of our single turbo kits, DBB AND Standard Bearing. I sell the DBB version for $700 more on average. Some folks have insinuated that I was trying to push what I had in stock or on the shelf at the time. Unlike most run-of-the-mill UK and US tuner shops, we carry on average about $500,000 to $1 Million in inventory at a given time. I currently have DBB and Standard Bearing versions of our Stage 1 and 2+ turbos ON THE SHELF. I'll be happy to spend someone's $700 if they truly want me to. However, over here in the US, we dont drive our single turbo Supra's around the street at 2000 RPM, nor do we floor it at 2500 RPM unless we are racing a tortise. I NEVER said that DBB turbos make NO difference. I've always said that the difference was almost un-noticeable for (KEY WORD HERE) *most* people. And thats EXACTLY what I tell people who call me to inquire on the DBB turbos. On your very own chart, which I studied with great interest, the most difference in RPM I was able to notice at a given PSI was about 250 RPM. At a given RPM point, the difference in boost was about 1 PSI. But thats in the 2500-3500 RPM range. When we are wanting to be on boost fast, I downshift to 4500 RPM and have boost instantly, without a DBB turbo. I do believe your results are wonderful, and I for one appreciate your doing the back to back testing. It just proves exactly what I've been saying all along, that for MOST people, the difference is almost NIL. You probably do feel the difference, having driven and tested both back to back. But most folks wont get that chance. Now do you see what I mean? Is the DBB option worth the extra $700 cost? Thats up to the customer to decide, not me. I give them my honest opinion after hearing what they are trying to do, period. I've been installing standard bearing and DBB turbos on Supras only for 10 years now. I've driven both back to back on 100's of occassions. To me, I personally feel the differences dont warrant the extra cost for *MOST* customers. For some, it maybe perfect for them. Everyone is different and allowed to decide for themselves, I just give my opinions when someone asks. But most customers who call me up drive their Supra's around town and will never have a chance to put a DBB to the test at 2.2 BAR on racing fuel or dyno both DBB and Standard Bearing units back to back. If you talk to the engineers at Garrett aftermarket or ITS as I do, you'll understand that the entire reason DBB turbo's were created was to improve longevity at higher boost and thrust levels. Standard bearing turbos dont hold up nearly as well to high thrust loads created by high boost as do DBB units, you are very correct there. This is the reason that DBB versions of our GT74, 76, and 80mm turbos are standard in Stage 4 and 5 kits. These kits were designed for High HP and/or race car applications running high boost often. To make claims that I have nothing to back up my statements is garbage. When we dyno test these units back to back, we do so on a $150,000 Superflow Eddie Current Dyno, which can *accurately* simulate real-world load conditions for a 3500# car. Doing back to back testing, we can replicate and hold 10% Throttle Position or 100% Throttle Position to get an idea of real-world driving conditions around town. We found similar results to yours in the speed vs time graph, although our results showed even less gains than yours did. However, we were testing identical versions of our PHR GT67 turbo, one with standard bearing one with DBB, otherwise exact turbos with same A/R and same exhaust trim (P trim). One thing I have also found is the increased heat load caused by a DBB turbo. Maybe you dont have to deal with heating issues in the UK, but here, none of our professional road-racers will consider a DBB turbo. Those were tried about 4 years ago when we introduced them in our kits as options. Now everyone runs standard bearing turbos and the water temps constantly stay 20-30 degrees cooler running around the track. No data to back my statement up? Are you joking? And it seems a few folks missed the entire point of what I said about "comparing apples to oranges". DBB turbos are NOT manufactured by the same companies that make OEM turbos that do last 200,000 miles. Garrett Aftermarket and Innovative Turbo DO NOT supply ANY OEM manufacturer. These are private label DBB turbos folks, not made by Garrett or KKK for OEM car companies. The reliability of these has been questioned repeatedly for years since they were released and I am just continuing that process. Whenever a turbo comes back for repair or failure, 90% of the time its a DBB unit. In race applications this is to be expected, but for a street driven Supra, its a big headache. Again, I sell both DBB and standard bearing versions of ALL our turbos. Maybe next time I'll keep my mouth shut and take $700 more of your hard earned monies, but thats not like me. Again, I NEVER said your data was "bullshit" anywhere in my post. I simply posed the question "is it worthwhile to pay $700 more for DBB" that was it. Funny how things get mis-interpreted over the forums. Thanks,

They finally stepped up! I must admit its a good copy. :-)

Joe, you can always email me directly on this for faster service. I've installed one onto a Jspec engine in a US body before, electrical connector was fine. If your connector wont fit the oval connector supplied, then just wire it directly into the round to oval harness supplied. Its only 3 wires, most shops can figure that out! Send me a pic of your electrical connector, I'm curious what you've got there. Thanks,