b.weeks

The knocking/clonking is on tight slow forward turns. Sounds like it's a welded diff. I have some Castrol, but didn't receive in time, so had to put some slightly thicker stuff in the the meantime.

The knocking went away originally but has returned unfortunately. I think the 3 pictures actually show some of the components in there are knackered, need to open it up and have a full look.

Did some investigation work when I was back in the UK. Attached are some photos of the diff housing so you can see what size it is. We also replaced the oil. On draining the oil it was pretty thick, burnt and ionized so most likely contained filed bits of metal. We didn't have time to take the diff off and inspect, but we stuck a small camera into the housing and you can see the other attached pictures.

Hi all, what's the recommended torque setting for the wheel nuts on SSR MS1 18's? Cheers, Ben

Ta mate. Very useful! Previous work (services) was all done elsewhere. You know anywhere that sells GL-5 85W-90 online? How many litres does a diff take?

Oops, ta.

Hi all, Looking for the following: 33575B BUSH, NO.2 (FOR CONTROL SHIFT LEVER RETAINER) 33546‑22010 JZA80..MTM 2 $20.72 33575A BUSH, NO.1 (FOR CONTROL SHIFT LEVER RETAINER) 33546‑22020 JZA80..MTM 2 $19.10 V160 Oil http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_1993_TOYOTA_SUPRA_JZA80-ALFQZ_3312.html

Hi all, what's the best oil to use for this, and where can I source it from?

Hi all, Has been a while :-) I currently have a '96 Toyota Supra that was a 4-speed auto but was converted to a 6-speed Getrag and new diff etc.. I am not sure of the casing size (don't have VIN number to hand). However, I'm getting excessive crunching at low speed (as if it's welded) and the back-end is pretty twitchy (especially if you down shift on a corner god forbid). In addition, naturally the speed is reading high. To drive I would prefer the regular 6-speed ratio, as feel like I'm just chasing through the gears too quick on track and 2nd/3rd are too low. Between the drive shaft and the diff there is also a bit of play (when inspecting under the vehicle). Looking through my spec's I believe it currently has: # ATS Carbonetic carbon 1.5 way diff. # NA crown wheel & pinion I want to go back to a LSD regular 6-speed ratio. Is a new LSD and/or crown and pinion required? Cheers guys, Ben

If you mean for track days, I find Moris insurance cheapest (http://www.moris.co.uk/) - although they have just changed underwriters. Don't forget it's quite a large excess.

I think Tom ordered the kit from Japan, but the paint didn't take properly so they created a mould from it and created the new fibreglass panels. The guy who has the moulds no longer does anything with them, so is looking to sell them. They're tucked away in the back of his storage so wasn't sure what they were. I think it's quite likely to be that car as he said he had created the moulds for the "eyebrows" as well.

Could well be - not seen the kit ...

Hi all, Anybody know a Tom from Gravesend who had an upgraded Supra running 600bhp. Apparently he worked for the gas board. It was a black car with an extensive body kit (with purple seats). Also had a CF rear spoiler (at some point). NB This may be from a few years ago. Or more importantly - anybody got any pics of this car? I can get my hands on the moulds but the guy who has the moulds doesn't have any pics to hand or know what the kit is. Cheers, Ben.

Ryan, have been following this thread with a lot of interest - looks great!

Probably not easily no. I did it over a few evenings from memory. I just got my angle grinder out to get it out quicker :-)