badtoy

thanks alex, it is realy funny, "everybody" runs a wis but nobody knows how to calculate the correct amount of water and the correct nozzle. I think there must be a standard value of a reference temp of charged air measured before the throttle body. everything above this temp must be cooling down. but there must be a formula to calculate that. if you have the correct ammount of water it should be possible to calculate the correct nozzle. markus

how do you calculate the ammount of water to spray into the ic pipe? is there any formula? and how do you calculate the size of a wis nozzle? thanks markus

@all many thanks for your support, I will try again to find out. I will let you know. thanks Markus

I installed 2 years ago the flex-a-lite Electric Fan Conversion from mvp. I was very happy until 2 months ago. the fans start to get weak. last year they soak like hell I tested that in front of the fmic with a piece of paper, the paper flows direct at the fmic and stick on it. today it is like a weak wind the paper drops at the ground. I already cleaned the radiator and the fmic without success, after that I disconnected the fans from the relay and reconnected them direct at the battery again without success. Is it possible that they get weak?

@all many thanks for your support, I think I will go and order this: pic 1 pic 2 I will take 2 unit one for the waterspray for the fmic and one for the wis markus

will an aquamist pump messed up when it pumps air instead of water? when the tank is empty the pump will move air instead of water........ how do you know when your watertank is empty, do you have to check frequently? thanks markus

pete, many thanks for your help, but I think you got the t6 manual from timo haehnle from switzerland. A friend of mine and me made this manual for him. my actual problem is that I have on the mt sld typ II 2 wires for the speed sensor 1. I don't know which one is for the incoming and outcoming signal for the sld. I will do now some test with this unit. I thought that somebody has already install such a hks sld typ II. thanks for your help markus

hey pete, thanks for your reply. I sold them because I have an at car and the japanese sent me the sld's for the mt car. that are 2 totaly diffrent product. now I sold this 3 units to some friends of me and they ask me now about the installation manual in english. my 3 unit had only japanese manuals. what I saw, there are 4 diffrent wires. 1 black, 1 red, 1 white and 1 yellow. the black is ground, the red is ign. and the white and yellow is to "cheat" the #1 speedsensor I believe. but I have to know if the yellow or the white one goes from the sld to the ecu. now I have to order the SLD Typ T6 for my at nato spec in japan together with some other stuff. hope you can tell me which wire goes to the ecu thanks markus

just sold my SLD's, the manual is in japanese LOL. I checked out the diffrent cables on the SLD. black = ground red = ignition white = speed sensor #1, input to SLD??????? yellow = speed sensor @1, output to ecu?????? any input is welcome. thanks markus

sounds expensive, have a look atmytires I know they have no s03 but you will have some market prices for tires in this dimension. hope it helps markus

did you install a greddy bcc and adjust it right? if yes, try a bleeder-t like descripted in the mkiv.com/tech articles good luck markus

where did you placed the tank for the water injection on your cars? how big are they? what is the best offer I can get for an aquamist water injection? some of the US guys told me I should buy a SMC Kit.SMC LINK I use the greddy fmic and I think I can't be wrong to add an aquamist water injection right? which set I should buy? markus

sounds like burned clutches.....and a bad line pressure solonoid. go to a toyota dealer and let them measure the line pressure of the tranny, thats a 10 minutes job. check the color of your tranny fluid, if its dark your clutches are 100% burned. mine was clear but the clutches and all pressure solonids was gone. :-((( after that you will know exactly what to do. markus

on the nato/uk specs the intake air temp sensor is in the maf. if you install a vpc instead of the maf there is a resistor which give the ecu one and same value every time. I think it is about 30 degrees. remember the more colder intake air value you give to the ecu, the ecu will raise the fuel the more hot air value you give to the ecu the ecu will reduce the fuel. but on a uk spec car you have to reduce fuel by an s-afc anyway. I think thats the point why hks give a standard value for the ecu of about 30 degrees. hope this helps. markus

I made some test with my gtech a year ago, seq vs ttc mod. there was no diffrence in top end power at all. I was on the dyno and tried the ettc (mkiv.com tech articles) mod vs seq no power gain. You will gain some power when you remove your exhaus gas control valve. thats the most restrictions in the system. if you remove this egcv you have to assimilate the egcv pipe to the dimension of the exhaust pipe from turbo #1. try the ettc mod it costs only the switch and about 20 min work. you will find it at mkiv.com tech articles. markus p.s.: nobody with hybrid spec here? I would like to compare them with the factory specs......

hope this helps. does anyone figure out the specs of a hybrid stage 3 ct12b?????? that would be very very interessting...... Sequential Turbo's CT12B(Japanese) Turbine Size 60mm/48mm (big/small end of same blade) Compressor Size 62mm/39mm (big/small end of same blade) Turbine material Ceramic Scroll area (mm^2) 600 A/R ratio 0.42 CT12B(export) Turbine Size 52mm/44mm (big/small end of same blade) Compressor Size 58mm/39mm (big/small end of same blade) Turbine material Steel Scroll area (mm^2) 740 A/R ratio 0.53 P.S.: Source go to Specs on top of the page

sorry friends, perhaps I'm wrong, could it be possible in a st185? I know I was reading GTFOUR and I thougt it was the st205. sorry. Do you think its possible to add a ct26 as a 2nd big turbo in the sequential mod? Perhaps I'm wrong again, but did a ct26 hybrid not bring much more power than a hybrid ct12? I think the ct26 is bigger, isn't it?

f.e. ST205 (GT Four) markus

does anyone already replaced the 2nd stock ct12b turbo with a ct20b turbo????

@randy, I have a nato spec, thats the same as a uk spec. there are already 550cc in place from stock. the injectors works on impulses open close open close and so on. if you have more fuelpressure you will have more fuel in the chambers, but there is a restriction with the brake specific fuel consumption. as I said check the http://www.rceng.com/technical.htm#WORKSHEET and calculate your own values. the sard fpr is conected at the same vacuum line than the stock fpr and yes of course the fp is related on manifold pressure. but the sard is adjustable up to 90 psi. as today I run at the last 40t km at 20-22 psi always like a sick without any problem. gss341 = walbro fuelpump

no on stage 3 they have garrett racing internals, good enough for "save" 26 psi with a good tuning. If I will do that, I will go and rebuild my head too and increase the compression ratio to 8,9:1. :-)

I have a sard fpr with a gss341 and set the fuel pressure to 66 psi at the top. In combination with 550cc is this good enough for about 540 hp. after that we have 2 diffrent possibilities. 1. we upgrade the injectors with 720cc with a greddy fuel line and install a 2nd fuelline and a 2nd gss341 (I prefere that) 2. you buy the hks aic kit and work with one ore 2 additional injectors. advantage: you will pass the emission test with a catalyst without problems. with the bigger injectors there is no possibility to do that. if you would like to do your own calculation go and visite www.rceng.com and check out the worksheet. markus (Edited by badtoy at 2:51 pm on Mar. 21, 2002) (Edited by badtoy at 2:52 pm on Mar. 21, 2002)

just got the latest information of Leon Green and his hyprid turbos. --------------------------------------------------------------------------Stage 1 10% more power over stock. Stage 2 20 % more power over stock. Stage 3 30% more power over stock. Turn around time usually one week. Turbo's are very good units, they run on Garrett internals. I have MKiv Supras running 500+ h/p also running 1.7 bar with no problems. I take it you have your fuelling sorted?.. I would recommend the Stage 3 as many have upgraded later to the stage 3 anyway. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- (Edited by badtoy at 7:41 am on Mar. 21, 2002)

I just called up mr giles rose from turbotechnics Tel: +44 (0) 1604 705050. He quoted me on 2 hybrid turbos in exchange £650.--/each. they make only one stage, he told me that they max out the ct12b's. cheers

Pete, do you have a jap spec supra? or an uk spec supra?