Krister

Wow, really nice.

O365 has backups by itself so you really dont need to back it up. But if you want to make sure, and are using Outlook, import the e-mails to a PST file and backup on a USB hard drive. Encrypt with Bitlocker if you want. I'd do similar with Google drive, just copy it on an USB drive and encrypt if needed.

I have one as well, or maybe even two.

Could be, I was trying to order the breather hose that connects between the intake manifold and valve covers and it was estimated to deliver 6th of June.

I actually have an OEM three piece wing which I was going to install that has a Toyota badge. Yes very much so Thanks!

Also I didnt put this in the project section as it's not a Supra, but if a mod wants to move it there or another section, it's fine by me.

Been working with the Aristo and it's almost ready back for the road. Made a new downpipe, fuel lines and had the manifolds bead blasted and coated the exhaust side with VHT Flameproof. Also installed a new set of BC BR Coilovers. Need to get of rid of all this junk from the engine bay: Took off the Intake manifold: Shaved TB: Test fitting new BW S366SX-E turbo: Made a new downpipe: Coated exhaust side and bead plasted intake manifold with the AFPR relocated: New oil return line: New upper radiator pipe: Getting ready: Car up and running and washed all the grime off: Still some finishing touches left to do. Intake side intercooler piping and relocating some hoses and wiring. Should be ready within a week.

Stumbled across this thread and thought I'd post a test that my friend made with a 2JZ stock coil. You can see on the video when the HKS DLI is switched on and off, the spark on the plug is a lot stronger with the DLI on: [video=youtube;Rzr310-qFk0]

I think I remember this car way back, there was a project thread on it on Supraforums.

Great power for 97RON. I would suggest to change to a 3.5" full turbo back exhaust. 3" is too small for the power you are making.

Arent these £2100-2200 at JDMDistro. http://www.jdmdistro.com/shop/engines/toyota-aristo-supra-jza80-jzs161-2jzgte-vvti-engine-26/

They are noisier (without a controller) and what I've read, the failure rate of the big external pump is a lot higher for some reason. Most modern aftemarket ECU's have AFR lean limits so the ECU would cut fuel if you would start to run lean at wide open throttle in case of a fuel pump failure.

Stock cars run usually rich at wide open throttle. In a MAF meter car, having a boost leak will cause the AFR to go very rich, so I would check that first. Put a PVC plastic port on the top IC hose coming from the turbo with a tire valve with the inside thing in the valve removed and put some pressure in the system, you should hear hissing if there's a leak some where. http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r170-slk-class/1545447-diy-boost-leak-tester.html

I paid around $600-800 for shipping a set of 19" SSR's from Titan so $2200 sound really really expensive. Mine came via Fedex.

Well the idle is lumpy if it's too low. Have you read this and gone through the trouble shooting? http://www.2jzgarage.com/2013/07/etcs-i-dbw-system-troubleshooting/ Does your cruise control work?

Check a Gen 2 GS300 error codes. It has a 2JZ-GE VVTi engine, I think it should be the same for the most part and most OBD1 Toyotas have the same codes anyway so Im pretty sure the TPS is the right code.

If you have a TPS sensor error and the stock throttle body handles the idle, isnt it obvious where to look first?

Nope

I would try with a second hand throttlebody, your idle issue is because of the TPS error code most likely. Maybe try JDM Distro, they are selling second hand 2JZ's, so maybe they have an extra TB or may part with it. Most who change the VVTi engine on a Supra or other cars will use the stock non-VVTi mechanical TB, so there should be plenty laying around. I might source one for £100-150 if you need one.

Yes

100-200kph (around 60-120mph) result: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32139684/Musti/2016/Racelogic.jpg 4.7 seconds in the below video:

Take pictures before you have it done.

What bonnet? You shouldnt blast body panels with sand because it distorts the metal. Here they use water + sand for the under body so you dont get dust every where.

Take it to a specialist. You need to sand blast the rust out before you put any protection on it, then paint it and then rust protect it. Otherwise the rust will stay under the protection and eat away the metal and you will only make it look good and not correct the actual problem. Then after a couple of years, it will be a mess if you dont do it properly in the first place.

They are there because of a loop hole in the rules and ruin the aesthetics of the cars.