Hermit

How can causing a cat that much distress not be cruel? petspa Although I'd want to subject them to a water cannon at point blank range myself. No they don't, but it is funny when they do that! Mine didn't run off, just got out and sat looking sorry for herself, slowly drip drying

Good show - Love the underground garage at the end

Bad news folks, it's gonna be June according to this... http://news.softpedia.com/news/Forza-Motorsport-2-Release-Date-Revealed-39894.shtml It's the one game that will tempt me to get a 360, assuming they don't feck it up........

Yes, they'll be new Bloody good price, bet you're glad you didn't impulse buy earlier!

That's what I thought you meant, I just borrowed your description because I was too lazy to describe it more accurately

Doesn't it interpolate between the cells? So if you have an input of, say, 1.8V it will use the settings from the 1.7V and 1.9V cells. (and the same for the revs axis). Dunno what you do about the 'off the scale' boost levels, but I guess that mappers put in a row or few of estimated values that would run rich.

The Nationwide adverts with the annoying manager. Not even effective adverts cos it took months before I noticed what it was for. Unlike clit bang, sheila's etc where at least you remember the name, even though you don't want to.

I know the Soarer's MAP sensor uses a +5V supply, maybe it's the same on a Supra? Try checking the voltage on pin 41 on the ECU (called Vcc, also powers the TPS).

I'm afraid I'm running out of ideas on this I asked about the resistances to see whether it might be a stepper motor, but I guess it's not. Like tems, it appears to have an actuator and a sensor, but from what I know of tems (which isn't much ) the actuator appears to be different. The risk is greater with the low resistance as it will draw more current and possibly burn out. A pot simply wouldn't be man enough to do the job - you can get power rheostats that handle the current but they're big and expensive compared to using a regulator. Anyway, don't you want to firm them up? So far they've only gone soft... maybe that's all that'll do

I think you might only get a reading with a probe on pin 1, and the other on pin 4. If it's 100V it's quite feasible it's isolated from the main vehicle supply and earth. My guess is that diagnostic mode would override all that, but...

Thanks Andra! Puzzling though.. I was sure you'd find a voltage there in diagnostic mode, most likely between pins 1 and 4 but maybe 2 and 3. Anything up to 100V... not sure if it would show up if you measured each wire against the chassis? http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid216/p12e6e8bcb10939882f8a432c612ba77f/eca8ed69.jpg

Given the high current draw, I'm now thinking that these probably aren't tems, the low resistance suggests that perhaps there's a motor in there. If so, you need more than just a fixed voltage to drive it. On the other hand, applying 12V made a difference, which isn't what I'd expect if it was a motor. Sorry, but I can't tell you how to drive it if we don't know what it is. Could you measure resistance across each pair of wires on a strut and post up the results? (6 readings, all the combinations of two wires out of the four). Maybe that will give us another clue.

That's way too high for tems! /vbb/images/smilies/bbcode_shock.gif The tems unit is fed from the 15A 'electronics' fuse which also powers the indicators, windows, sunroof etc etc. so no way is that enough to power 4 lots of 5A. I found an article that said tems used an 88 layer stacked piezo actuator, and looking around it seems like these things are driven by about 100V at fairly low current (mA). The load they present is mostly capacitative, so they're fed with a resistor inline to limit the current. As they charge up, they'll draw less current. http://www.physikinstrumente.com/en/products/prdetail.php?sortnr=400600.75 http://www.piezo.com/prodstacks1.html Gotta admit I'm confused as well, but if they're not tems, wtf are they?

Well that's progress How about reversing the polarity, should move the actuator in the other direction? Dunno how much current these actuators take to drive them, but it does seem a bit high

No, it doesn't have any info past the connector on the loom that would connect to the plug you have hanging off your shocks. I don't have tems on my Soarer to check against I'm afraid. This is what the loom connector is shown as: http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid216/p12e6e8bcb10939882f8a432c612ba77f/eca8ed69.jpg reckon your plug might match that?

Sorry I wasn't thinking straight - the colours on the schematic will be for the wires in the loom, not at the strut.

The Soarer's TEMS is controlled by a seperate control unit which reads from a steering sensor amongst other things (probably speed as well). So fitting the rest of the system wouldn't be practical. But... it might be possible to get it set into the diagnostic mode Andra mentions (also known as 'trackday mode'). Of the four wires, two are a sensor and the other two control the damping with a piezo actuator. If we could find out what signal to drive the actuator with, maybe it's as easy as feeding it some +12V through a resistor to get it into trackday mode. But is it TEMS? If you post the colours of the wires I can check em against the schematic for you. I think that would be pretty conclusive since there's sixteen wires altogether!

Same as mine... but I think maybe we should only be using the hardest 16 clicks. Could someone who knows confirm/deny that for us please?

Thanks, I hadn't found those. I had a look at the SS manual, since I think the SS replaced the HA (?). (I have the HA). It warns not to turn the damper adjustment more than 16 clicks away from hardest - my dampers appear to have 24 clicks of adjustment, but should I only be using the hardest 16? Did they ever make any with 24 steps? Yeah, their asses are well and truly covered aren't they!!! Super Street... 'can be used for weekend racing and/or daily driving'. (product page) 'is designed for off-road use only'. (manual)

This Tein HA manual is in Japanese, and that may not be the model you have, but it could be useful anyway. The damper adjustment can be done by hand - the nut clicks, so just count 'em. Depending on the model, you'll have 16, 24 or 32 clicks to play with. Just dive in and try it out To adjust the height you need a pair of 'C' spanners, there's a picture on page 12 of the manual. It's time-consuming to get it just right and even (I'm half way through doing mine... ). Also, do a search on here for 'corner weights'. Given all that, it's best to plan what you're going to do rather than diving straight in. Hope this helps

Could be my lucky day! Thanks for the offer I think you're right about the 16's being the same. (On my 17's the centre hole is roughly 15.4cm and the cap face is about 16.3cm dia). How much do you want for 'em?

Anyone got any spare centre caps for standard uk 17 inch wheels? Well, I can always hope...