Hermit

That sounds like the copying wasn't right, but it looks like you did it all right. I'm puzzled about that. I just tried 'Add' on my installation, and cancelled it. It deleted the data files from J1 etc. I then copied the J1 etc folders back into C:\TMCMSTW2, and they showed up in the list on CD Setup. On Initial Setup the selection at the top is all greyed, but Japanese is selected and the EPC works (I don't think that's right though). I'm going to grab the torrent and see what's what. Another way to do it would be to use PowerISO to mount an ISO as a drive, use the Add button, unmount the drive, and repeat for each ISO. I don't know how you do that with PowerISO, but you're looking for something like 'mount image as a virtual drive'.

Are all the folders still there? I think using the 'Add' button has messed it up. My bad, I should've said that if you see a list there with items like 'A1 HARD DISK 2000/01/01' then you wouldn't need to add. If there's anything still in that list, use Del to remove them. Then copy the data again (same as before) but don't do 'Add' just go straight into initial setup.

Ok don't worry about that bit - looks like you don't need to use the 'Add' button after all. Try setting the stuff in 'Initial Setup'.

Cool - that saves burning loads of discs then On your C drive, the installer should have created a folder called TMCMSTW2. For each iso... 1. open it in PowerISO 2. note the last two characters of the volume label (for Jap A1 these will be J1) 3. create a folder in TMCMSTW2, those two characters are what to call it 4. copy all the files in the iso to the folder you just created (If your car's a J-spec, you only really need the Jap data loaded). Then you go into the EPC... It's ages since I did this, I can't remember if doing it this way you have to do anything in the 'CD Setup' section - you may need to use the appropriate 'Add' button to get it to see the data files. Then go into 'Initial Setup' and select 'Japanese' under 'Current CD Area Selection'. And then it should work...........

What's PowerISO? Does it let you open an ISO and copy the files out of it? If so I'll tell you where to put them

Definately yes ... that is, if you'll allow a Soarer in to play...

http://www.maplesoft.com/applications/appviewer.aspx?AI=DoubleWishboneSuspension_3.jpg&ID=2046 Roughly speaking... change in height = change in length of shock * distance from E to F / distance from E to K (in case the image doesn't link right - E is the inner end of the lower arm, F is the outer end, and K is where the shock attaches).

I think you missed my point Oil is a finite resource, and we're well past the time when it was cheap and plentiful.

I agree that the gov makes too much money off fuel, but, as they say, duty is less of a percentage of what we pay than it was in 1999. If they changed duty to a percentage we wouldn't have these increases to moan about... and as the price of oil goes up, they'd get more money... so it could be worse. TBH though, the duty increases these days are really quite small compared to the increases in the price of oil. And oil is likely to get exponentially more expensive from here on. Better get used to it

Yeah ok don't rub it in ... but ... what I meant was if the serial output works ok without the terminator on the input, it shouldn't matter if it's connected to a gauge, a PC, or a gauge and then a PC Didn't know you needed to connect the PC up to calibrate it though - from my understanding of the XD16 docs, pressing the button on the gauge while it powers up starts the calibration.

There's still scope for us all to be wrong then Just that I can't see that there's any difference between hooking up to a PC vs a digital gauge - they both use the serial output. Ah, ok, sorry. I have an analogue gauge, and I haven't installed the WB yet. I was just going by the docs I have, which don't say anything about what shows on a digital gauge. Oh, and another thing I got wrong It says that the calibration wire (switch and led) aren't needed when using a XD-16 gauge.

I think when you're doing the calibration, it doesn't display anything on the gauge. Looks like you're supposed to wire up the switch and led (LC-1 quick start guide, step 3) and the led blinks etc to let you know what's happening. Ryan says it works without the terminator... I believe him

Worth a try It's purpose could be one of two things - 1) prevent noise, which could be mistaken for a signal, or 2) to indicate that no other device is connected. If #1 then it will probably work ok without it. If #2 then it may get confused It's highly unlikely to affect the core functions of the LC-1, I'd expect it to affect the serial output if anything. It would be easy to make one - it's just a 2.5mm stereo plug with the tip and the middle ring shorted together. I haven't got mine installed yet or I'd try it out for you.

Should be one included in the kit, it was in the box with the LC-1 when I got mine. I can't see where it says it's extra, which manual's that in? Maybe that's when you buy a gauge on it's own, not as a kit.

I did say True, not in the first post though. Not really bogged down, I've been doing other stuff on the car today, just about warmed myself up again now it was damn cold in the wind! If it doesn't matter which way up it goes then that's fine by me

EFCooler

Not like this then? http://www.bmtrans.ca/cooler.gif What pressure is transmission fluid at anyway? It's a plate and fin design like this one, so the oil could find it's way through without using all the pathways. http://www.bmracing.com/media/products/items/382_full.jpg

I guess with an airlock it would just not be as effective as it could be, nothing immediately noticable (in my case anyway). BTW It's a B&M transmission cooler in case that makes any difference. It came with some fitting instructions, they don't specify a preferred orientation for it, but they're very minimal instructions.

It's just that it would be easier to have the pipes at the bottom, because routing the pipes would be neater, and I'd have enough pipe already. But I think you're right, why risk an airlock. Thanks!

I don't know how to check that, but I'd doubt it would fire on all cylinders if that were the case. Is it an emanage ultimate? Do you have the injector adapter #2 fitted? I believe it's needed if you want to add and subtract fuel (i.e. wires cut and signal going into and back out of the emu). Scratch that, it's a Blue.

Random ideas... Any chance the AFR isn't a valid reading? Sensor could be fouled... ? Not firing on one or more cylinders? Injector stuck open? How does it sound at idle? Any clues there?

Is there a right way to mount it? Pipes to the top or bottom? I tried searching but couldn't find an answer...

PM sent

I'm interested - if it comes with the pressure sensor I'd definately take it

For those like me who missed it first time round, it's on again next Tuesday...