pistonbroke

Stock is very nice.......when it's lowered with nice alloys. Saying that though, get a bodykit/wheel combo right on a car and you also have yourself a winner. It's all about balance and taste, get a bodykit wrong and you can really mess it up. Mine was stock bodied, and dropped on coilovers when I got it. It looks a gajillion times better now it's had its makeover.

Oh my, I bet it's nice and quiet with that boost activated exhaust valve

Hybrids are where the stock ceramic internals are replaced with steel blades, uprated shafts and other gubbins I don't understand. You also get new actuators with the refurb. As for power difference at 1.2, it feels pretty savage. But I've not had it rolling roaded since the change. Before, it made 397bhp on the stock ceramics, it feels a bit quicker, and people I've had in the passenger seat have commented on it's rapidness in comparison to other BPU'd supes.

Does your car have a boost controller fitted.? The second actuator mentioned is controlled by the controller, so it may be why your pipe setup doesn't match. The whole dash doesn't have to come out. Remove the facia sections where the heater controls are along with the durrounding panels, along with the strip across the top and you'll be able to remove the dash cluster. It's not complicated, but I understand you not wanting to do it if you've not done it before. I don't mind helping out dude, but like I said, I live miles away, there must be other members closer.

Start a dispute thread dude.

Supraturbochris is on Holiday at the moment, but I know he'll definitely be up for this.

I think you should send this whole thread to Toyota. It's a perfect representation of how the MKV Supra should be.

About £900. You obviously have to pay for removing and refitting on top of that. You also need new gaskets for the turbos.

Yup, that's if they ever arrive. Check my garage for the 38/43 offset look.

Ok, found the thread, so I'll contribute. My turbos were smoking a fair bit so I was presented with what to do about it. Going single was never an option, I can't afford to do it properly, so I'll settle for the best I can get. New turbos from toyota are 2k last time I checked, (without fitting costs). For that money, I could have my old Jspecs reconditioned twice over I searched around at all the options. I even started a thread about all the companies that recondition turbos, and got prices from each. I then researched issues that people have had with hybrids to find out the low down on them. Two very important things to factor when going hybrid. 1) If your casings are cracked, its not worth reconditioning them, they won't last any time at all. 2) who's doing the work. So, First thing is to get them inspected to see if they're in good enough nick to go down the hybrid route. Supraturbochris bought a second hand set of hybrids from a member and they ate themselves within a day or two, he stripped them and found a bodge weld repair from a crack in the casing, proving my point. (the hybrids were built by turbo technics). Chris has now had his original turbos from the car hybridised by CRturbos, and they are back on, and running beautifully. When it comes to getting the work done. CRturbos have been the best recommended that I've found. Sure, Jamie is right, I've only had the hybrids on a few months, but Blackwatch666 has had them on a few years now running 1.2bar on an almost daily basis I believe, without fault. I made a point of asking CRtubos to thoroughly inspect the casings on both sides for cracks before commencing any work, they confirmed that my turbos were in excellent condition apart from a leaking exhaust side seal. Getting this done alone would have been considerably cheaper, but I wanted the steel internals so I can run 1.2 bar without being on the threashold for the turbos limit. As for lagginess of the steel turbines, yes, they boost about 300-500rpm later (seems to depend on outside temperature), but it's a compromise I'm willing to pay for stronger turbos. Hope this helps, if you have any specific questions, feel free to ask

, what do I win ?

Bad times, RIP Lionel..... Px0k4KHo6bQ

This thread needs to be in the NWS section. The dangerous thing about it is you're making all this awesomeness look easy. No doubt some members on here are reading through the 101 pages of brilliance thinking "I can do that", then they go out and ruin their car

Haha, not only is it my car, but it's me too

Amazing Nell.

I can't wait to hear them

Say hello to Dave for me, his car is awesome

Here you go mate. http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/articles/andy.htm The IACV VSV mentioned on the above is the one that is bypassed when TTC'ing. It's that simple. Just get another one of them, and plumb in as shown at the start of the instructions. Temp gauge should sit at halfway mate, it's even more likely to be the dial face catching on the dials now you've mentioned that. It there not a local member to Mr Plethora here who can lend a hand. The dash cluster is a real easy job, I'd be more than happy to do it for you matey, but I'm a bit far away. Edit to add, my bad, there are two VSV's in question to TTC, read the intraucyions posted above and you'll see them both.

Don't worry about it being my idea dude. If people want it, I'm not fussed.

I think she's broken down

Viper stripes for FTW!! Is chris actually getting the white one? Or are you doing it knowing full well he'll buy it when he sees it

Come on nell. Show us your wankel. . . !

01. Lui (Have Reg & confirmed) 02. Sharpe (Jamie) 03. Heckler 04. JamieP 05. mitchell9006 06. Jimojameso 07. Fitz 08. JamieP Orange beast. 09. Branners 10. P111ddy 11. MisterSheen 12. Supra-T (T04z only) 13. BOB B. 14. SimonT 15. DanGX (Have Reg & confirmed) 16. TJP 17. Abz 18. Pistonbroke

TTC mode eliminates one of the VSV's IIRC, so it'll be the one on the top at the rear above turbo 2. I'll link a picture for you once I get home this evening providing no one else has already. I'd get one from Keron on the cheap and swap them over. Your squeak could just be a worn belt, change the belt first as it's the cheapest option, then go from there. Have you got aftermarket dials fitted?, if so, this could be the root of both the next problems. The speedo needle may have been removed and put back in the wrong position giving the wrong reading. Incorrectly fitted dials may also be the cause of your gauge sticking. The speedo issue was apparent on another car I owned, so I put a tom tom sat nav in the car with the speedo needle removed, then got the sat nav to 30mph and pushed the needle back on in the right position, job done. If aftermarket dials are fitted, then refitting the dial for the temp and fuel gauge may sort that problem.

The normal one, so it fits with the rest of my games.