pistonbroke

Copperslip mate, thats what I've used in the past. I only use it because I've seen others do it, so I followed suit.

It'll cost you an arm and a leg to do any pearl colour properly.

Lol, your car really stole that show haha It stands out so much, it's like it's photoshopped.

I'll have a look for you later when I'm messing with mine.

Back on topic - Carbon diffusers both front and rear seem to be gaining quite a bit of attention on the supra scene at the moment. I'm sure if you made something tasteful and well priced, you'd do well.

I see you're talking about genuine carbon products, but something I'm looking into is water transfer process carbon fibre for the dash panels. I reckon if you bought one of the dip machines along with the raw materials for doing it, it would pay for itself from the buyers on this site alone within a few months.

It's either the thermo stat as previously stated, or you have an airlock.

Looks a bit shoddy mate, Is your hi power one in worse nick?

The 6sp you tried must have some issues with it, probably knackered old selector fork bushes. My 6sp is silky smooth, like new in fact.

Is the UK spec pump brand new? Put your old pump back in and see what happens.

The signal it's recieving from the main ECU must be a variable signal though, it has to be able to tell the fuel pump what the current situation is with fuel demand. I highly doubt you have two faulty FP ECU's.

Hope you get it sorted bud

I used to have an auto TT. Absolutely brilliant car, wafted around town effortlessly, no stress, no bother, totally relaxed and well behaved. Brilliant fun when you planted your foot too. If you spend a lot of time in traffic, I would recommend and auto over a manual. You don't have to worry about clutches either. The only time I wished I had a manual was on country lane hooning, when you want more than 3 gears to play with. I now have a 6sp BPU TT, but this is not my everyday car. (I've only driven it twice in 3 months of ownership ) This car, (when it's finished) will only be coming out on sunny show off tastic weekends and for meets/shows, so it's not likely to stress me out on congested journeys into work. When I do bring her out though, I want the full bore caffine loaded caboodle driving experience, so the 6 sp was the way to go. If you're using the car on a regular basis, I strongly suggest you try an auto.

Can't see any reason why not. The only reason for the fuel pump ECU is to supply a lower voltage when a signal is recieved from the main ECU that max pressure is not needed. the only thing you'll get is longer pump life, but saying that, from what I've read, no one has found premature pump wear by giving it a constant 12v feed. Having done a little research with google, it seems that people changing NA cars (sc300 lexus) to turbocharged varients regularly bypass the FP ECU with a constant 12v with no side effects. Regarding the actual problem you are having, I don't think your FP ECU is the problem, I think the signal it's getting from the main ECU may be the underlying problem. Have you tried swapping the main ECU from a donor car to test it.?

he must mean 18 psi

it might be worth pm'ing keron, i believe he does manual conversions on a regular basis.

I'm not going to be able to help massively mate, I can only shed light on my past experience with tip boxes. You are converting to manual so would assume that one of the sensors is redundant. On the tip box you'll have two sensors, one input one output. As far as I'm aware, the manual will just have one (output).

It may be that where the battery has been disconnected for a while, the alarm system has reset, and the remote locking needs to be re activated. Check the manual that came with the alarm. This would certainly be the case for the anti hijack system, as it is off by default and has to be activated by the user.

There has always been a massive amount of confusion when it comes to displacement of wankel engines. The key for comparing the displacement between the 4-cycle engine and the rotary engine is in studying the degrees of rotation for a thermodynamic cycle to occur. For a 4-cycle engine to complete every thermodynamic cycle, the engine must rotate 720° or two complete revolutions of the crankshaft. The rotary engine is different. The engine rotor rotates at 1/3 the speed of the crankshaft. On two rotor engines, front and rear rotors are 180° offset from each other. Each rotation of the engine (360°) will bring two faces through the combustion cycle (the torque input to the eccentric shaft). This said, it takes 1080° or three complete revolutions of the crankshaft to complete the entire thermodynamic cycle. Obviously, we have a disparity. How can we get a relatable number to compare to a 4-stroke engine? The best way is to study 720° of rotation of the two-rotor engine. Every 360° of rotation, two faces of the engine complete a combustion cycle. 720° will have a total of four faces completing their cycle. 40ci(654cc) per face times four faces equals 160ci or 2.6L. That’s a well-reasoned number and now gives us something to be able to compare to other engines. In addition, since four faces passed by in the comparison, it’s like a four cylinder engine. Now we know, the 13B compare well to a 2.6L 4-cylinder 4-cycle engine.

I part ex-d an s2000 for my current supra. The bit about there being a problem with the early models suspension is BS. They toned it down in later models to make the car more user friendly, but there was certainly nothing wrong with it. If you check the S2KUK forums, you'll see that pretty much all the members agree that the earlier setup is better for enthusiastic driving. As for the S2000, they are brilliant cars. I know it's frowned upon, but changing the stock airbox (or even just taking the lid off the stock one) gives you one of the loudest induction roars I've ever heard. The handling is very, very involved. You really need to pay attention and be on your toes. Some people will call it twitchy, I say it's more exciting. It's the best compromise car for being brilliant on the track, and excellent on the road. It really is a jekyll (sp) and Hyde car. Under 6000rpm, the car is sedate and quiet, one you hit that magic mark though, the car transforms instantly into a manic track machine. The gearbox is brilliant, bit notchy when cold, but once warmed up, it's slick, smooth, and perfectly geared. Sure the car could do with a bit more oomph, but I would imagine that if honda had gone with anymore power out the factory, there would be salvage yards all over the country full of totalled S2000's. If you feel you need more power though, there are plenty of tried and tested supercharger kits available for them, one member of the club has over 600 HP with his Vortech kit. CONS - The car is not as indestrucitble as many owners will make out, engine failures are not uncommon, and they tend to come to the end of their lives at around the 100k mark. The suspension bushes seize, and are very very expensive to sort out. The geometry on them needs to be checked and adjusted every couple of years (or more depending on driving conditions), ignoring the geo will see you smashing armcos on a regular basis. Seized bushes will prevent you from adjusting the geo, and then you're in for a major payout to get it sorted, ask any sellers if they have had the bushes copperlipped, if not walk away. For some reason, the S2000 can suffer from rust quite badly. It seems better to go for an import where the car has come from a country where salt on the roads is not an issue, and will not have any rust at all. I bought a late 2001 UK car with 60k on the clock, and the rear arches under the plastic strip that covers the lip of the wheel arch were hiding a load of rust patches that I had to sort. They suffer with a leak into the boot which is not visable on initial inspection, the carpets won't even be wet. under the tool kit, the car has a plastic liner which stops the carpet getting wet, lifting this will potentially reveal a sea of rust where the boot floor is slowly rotting away from the inside. Mine started leaking when I bought the car so I caught it early and sorted it. There is a vent behind the rear bumper that has a rubber seal that perishes, sealing this with sealent sorts the problem. If you need any specific help with s2000 shopping, I'd be more than happy to help. Edit - got a bit carried away there, to answer your question about comparison to a supra. A stock Supra is much easier to drive than an s2000. The s2000 is group 20 insurance for a reason. It may seem like a nippier mx5 on the test drive, but they are comparitively light cars with 240bhp, they will punish the inexperienced just when you least expect it.

i think the vtec afterwards is brilliant. He even does the wheelspin chirp when he shifts to second, then moments later he does it again but he does the worn synchro ring crunch hahahaha

I don't like the front, it's got to much going on. The bottom lip also sticks out further than the top, which makes it look like a bit....................special needs.

I think it's the one that jamiep had on his red one. He'll know.

That last picture of the civic looks horrible.