smithn05

Glad you got back safely Dean, hope it gives you as much pleasure as it has me :-) Was sorry to see it drive off round the corner Still the Avensis Diesel is a sight to behold ----- god shoot me now Keep in touch and let me know how you ge ton with it Regards N

ditto

Oh and TT Jim, I must be stupid as my replacement car is a fecking Avensis diesel!!!! Utter bloody lunacy ;-) Did have to succumb to the T180 though, which I beleive can be chipped

Ive never had anyone think I might be part of a gang before, I quite like the idea Dont forget to bring your crash helmet Dean

Hi all Thanks for the post Peter P, I am fully in agreement with your thoughts. I hope the the buyer does take it on as a project, (and if I had more time available and could put up with the costs of running it daily I would be doing it!!). I personally wouldnt have sold it to someone I knowingly knew was going to strip it. Incidentally, it is now sold (unsurprisingly!!). Regards Nigel

Firstly I must say that I have used this car daily for the past 7 years, including commuting from Southampton to London and more recently daily to and from Bournemouth. The car is completely reliable and has never let me down. The only reason I am selling is the cost of the fuel Im putting through it Ok the Spec with as much genuine info as I can think of: 1994 J-Spec RZ 6 Speed in Red 155K miles mostly M-way(mine since 35k) - odo reads 166, but I have a BIMTA mileage cert for swap to MPH Mobil 1 thoughout my 7 years of ownership (although services done by me so no history) Everything Standard, even the Jap speed limiter (fuel cut at 120mph ish), apart from SVA requirements. Engine never red lined (6k max) during my ownership Clutch good Gearbox good - notchy when cold, smooth when hot in typical Supra fashion. Engine good - no unusual noises Turbos good - spools up quickly and smoothly Sympathetic ownership in my time - no turbos until engine warm, and off the turbos for last few miles with decent tickover at the end etc Recent rear wheel bearings Recent stock exhaust (2nd hand from a member but in excellent condition) Recent rear pads Thatcham 1 alarm/immobiliser. Now the not so good points, starting at the front: Front edge of bonnet stone chipped and aluminium starting to corrode. Easy respray job at this stage. Valve stem oil seals need doing - blue smoke on start up only - does not burn oil any faster than when I first got it (maybe 1/2l per 1000miles) Heater Matrix blocked, and also over this last summer the aircon ran out of refrigerant (1st time its ever had a problem with it) Heat shield on exhaust rattles at 1200 RPM Stone chips and paint microblisters on roof and rear RHD quarter. The micro blisters were caused by a re-spray of the rear quarters due to panel damage whilst on the boat coming over from Japan. When I bought the car they were non-existant (although I knew about the panel damage) but over time have become apparent. Cambelt due. I think £3750 is a fair price and I am sure I would get this after showing those uneducated in the way of Supra what they can do, but would prefer to sell to member who might know a bit more about them and how to treat them ;-) PM for more info, or to view. Cheers Nigel

Hi Guys, Posted this the other day, and people said pics would help, so see attached!!! If anyone wants to make an offer, then I would consider it, I know what Id like to see for it and I am hoping that you guys agree with me Would be interested in knowing what people think my Supra is worth. I realise its not the best example out there now, but after 7 years of ownership it has proved completely and utterly reliable and has never let me down. Looking at selling as I am spending about £60 a week in fuel and am looking at a diesel Ok the Spec with as much genuine info as I can think of: 1994 J-Spec GZ 6 Speed in Red 155K miles mostly M-way(mine since 35k) Mobil 1 thoughout my 7 years of ownership (although services done by me so no history) Everything Standard, even the Jap speed limiter (fuel cut at 120mph ish) Engine never red lined (6k max) during my ownership Clutch good Gearbox good - notchy when cold, smooth when hot in typical Supra fashion. Engine good - no unusual noises Turbos good - spools up quickly and smoothly Sympathetic ownership in my time - no turbos until engine warm, and off the turbos for last few miles with decent tickover at the end etc Now the not so good points, starting at the front: Front edge of bonnet stone chipped and aluminium starting to corrode. Easy respray job at this stage. Valve stem oil seals need doing - blue smoke on start up only Heater Matrix blocked, and also over this last summer the aircon ran out of refrigerant (1st time its ever had a problem with it) Heat shield on exhaust rattles at 1200 RPM Stone chips and paint microblisters on roof and rear RHD quarter. The micro blisters were caused by a re-spray of the rear quarters due to panel damage whilst on the boat coming over from Japan. When I bought the car they were non-existant (although I knew about the panel damage) but over time have become apparent. Cambelt due. Any help or advice you can give (or is someone wants to make an offer ;-) ) would be greatly appreciated. Regards Nigel

Shut the door?

There are loads of heat shields around the front part of the exhaust, so not easy to tell you much ... you need to get under there and find out which one it is!!! Mine does it at 1200rpm and I will be buggered if I can find out which one it is!!!

Sounds like block matrix to me, loads of threads on here for it. If its only just started doing it, its possible you might be able to clean it through with some of the drain cleaning acid stuff you get a B&Q but be careful its nasty stuff. As for the lights on the temp control, Im assuming you mean the backlighting at night, as the temp control doesnt have any leds. Thats a simple replacement bulb issue (although Toyota want to charge a fortune for the lil blighters), there is a thread on here somewhere with a link to a web site that sells them although I cant find the it, maybe someone else knows it.

Yep agree with one of the other posts, Christchurch Tyres have the laser 4 wheel alignment stuff, and know how to use it. They are in the process of relocating from Bargates, Christchurch to Wilverley Road, Christchurch. They have always done my stock setup and now I dont have to replace rear tyres at 8000miles!!!

Yeah I realised that when I posted, will do some pics at the w/end, after Ive washed it ;-)

Hi Guys, Would be interested in knowing what people think my Supra is worth. I realise its not the best example out there now, but after 7 years of ownership it has proved completely and utterly reliable and has never let me down. Looking at selling as I am spending about £60 a week in fuel and am looking at a diesel Ok the Spec with as much genuine info as I can think of: 1994 J-Spec GZ 6 Speed in Red 155K miles mostly M-way(mine since 35k) Mobil 1 thoughout my 7 years of ownership (although services done by me so no history) Everything Standard, even the Jap speed limiter (fuel cut at 120mph ish) Engine never red lined (6k max) during my ownership Clutch good Gearbox good - notchy when cold, smooth when hot in typical Supra fashion. Engine good - no unusual noises Turbos good - spools up quickly and smoothly Sympathetic ownership in my time - no turbos until engine warm, and off the turbos for last few miles with decent tickover at the end etc Now the not so good points, starting at the front: Front edge of bonnet stone chipped and aluminium starting to corrode. Easy respray job at this stage. Valve stem oil seals need doing - blue smoke on start up only Heater Matrix blocked, and also over this last summer the aircon ran out of refrigerant (1st time its ever had a problem with it) Heat shield on exhaust rattles at 1200 RPM Stone chips and paint microblisters on roof and rear RHD quarter. The micro blisters were caused by a re-spray of the rear quarters due to panel damage whilst on the boat coming over from Japan. When I bought the car they were non-existant (although I knew about the panel damage) but over time have become apparent. Cambelt due. Any help or advice you can give (or is someone wants to make an offer ;-) ) would be greatly appreciated. Regards Nigel

Seriously get a garage to do it. It is an easy job except removing the crank pulley bolt which is done up stupidly tight. I had a 6ft scaffold pole on my socket, and all it was doing was slipping the clutch. I gave it to my mechanic friend who also had the same problem. Gave it to Toyota they did it in 1.5 hours and charged me £150. As a bare minimum if your friend wants to have a go, you need to be able to lock the engine up completely, just using the car in gear wont work!!!

Im upto 150k on standard J-spec, which Ive had since 30k. Turbos still sweet, perfomance still spot on, bit of blue smoke on start from the stem seals, but other than that Ive got no worries with it going on for another 150k

Sorry I missed the last bit of your post, you say its a single turbo? Do you mean a mkiv with aftermarket single upgrade or the old mk3 with pop up lights and a single turbo. The reason I ask is that the mk3 engines are renowned for blown head gaskets!! Mine went about 120k miles when I had it, and Toyota frightened me with over £1500 to fix (about 9 years ago). Got the head set from them for £150 and it was the easiest head gasket swap I have ever done!!

White smoke is usally a sign of blown head gasket with water getting into the cylinders. Blue smoke would indicate oil being burnt, and would indicate on start up valve stem oil seals or out on the road turbo seals or other engine problem like rings gone. My TT has 150k on the clock and starts with a puff of blue smoke on start up from the stem seals, but white would be a worry for me personally. I will bow down to the experience of the more knowledgeable members but I think thats where I would start to look

Hi all Ive got to the point where I need to do something with the heater. For a couple of winters now it has been totally rubbish and I know in my heart of hearts its the dreaded blocked matrix. The questions I have for you are: 1) Has anyone successfully cleaned out one of these matrixes after this much time with pressure washer / drain cleaner or other method? 2) Is there any cheaper options than buying a new Toyota part (Im thinking OEM or maybe re-core, if thats possible?) 3) Any sneaky ways to get it out without the whole dash coming out? To add insult to injury the aircon side of the system has also packed up!!! I realised it was running low on gas when the mag clutch started to not lock up, and confirmed this with the onboard diagnostics. Had it regassed (probably after 3 months of non-use) and it worked fine although the compressor seemed quite noisy. Now it has stopped working again, with no sign at all of cooling (about 2 months after the regas) although interestingly enough the mag clutch is still cycling in and out (so I assume the low gas pressure switch hasnt activated yet). My questions on this are: 1) Im assuming a small gas leak, is this likely to be an internal in the compressor (ie past the compressor seals), or any other obvious places to check? 2) What is the cheapest way of sorting a leaking compressor? Any help any of you guys/gals can give is greatly appreciated :-) Cheers all Nigel

Sounds like a dirty connection somewhere. As soon as the starter kicks in and trys to pull large amps, theres a big volts drop over the dirty connection knocking out all your electrics. Check battery terminals, ground leads etc. Mine did exactly the same thing a couple of weeks ago, I cleaned the battery terminal and it seemed fine. I must admit that I had already ordered the starter refurb kit by that time so replaced that too, but no problems in between cleaning terminals and replacing starter kit. One thing to watch for on the starter refurbs though is making sure the copper contacts stay square inside the solenoid as you tighten the nuts (both the securing nuts and the cable clamp nuts. The contacts can turn a bit as you tighten the nuts up so that they dont make a good contact on the circular solenoid mounted contact. Still even this shouldnt knock out the rest of the electrics - just wont let the starter work.

Hi Nic On the EPC its 16571 - and your schematic shows the thick wrap around the long side of the hose too. The one Toyota supplied (from that same schematic) is just the hose (no supporting wrap) and looks identical to the one I already have fitted. Cheers for looking Nigel

Hi All Trying to locate a partnumber for the top radiator hose on a 94 TT Jspec manual. I think there is a modified part - to stop the hose flattening, drooping and rubbing on the fanbelt (its this partnumber I am after). Mine is now perilously close to the fanbelt (when cold) and my local Toyota dealer showed me the schematic which shows a thick cylindrical wrap about 3 inches long attached to the long part of the hose (I assume this was the modification??). However when he got the part in it looked identical to my original so I said I would ask the experts!!! Any help would be appreciated. Cheers Nigel

There was a posting a while ago regarding equivilent numbers for rear wheel bearings. I have just bought one (from a club member) and fitted it and I can confirm that there is an equivilent to the KOYO DAC????? bearing (as fitted originally). It is an NSK 43BWD03, I have enquired with my local bearing supplier and they are fairly readily available and he wanted £54 for one. Obviously this price doesnt include the 2 seals and circlip but its another avenue to explore if anyone is having problems getting cheap bearings.

Hi there, I am assuming this has been sold? If not could do with it ASAP, stereo is now no longer loud enough!! LOL !! Please let me know. Cheers Nigel

Im sure its just overfilling. If I try and fill mine up to the top marks on the expansion tank it chucks loads of it out, and thats following all the rules about filling with the engine warm (thermostat open) etc etc. The normal running level for mine ever since Ive had it has been a tiny amount of water in the expansion tank and nothing more, in fact when its cold its usually dry in there!! The cars on 136k miles now and has never had a problem.

Following your threads sounds like you should first change the belt, the noises you heard were the belt slipping, worse when cold because the alternator is charging the battery hard and is harder to turn (hence more slip) and also on full lock because the ps pump is working harder. Now the belt is so worn its slipping more and causing overheating and more ps slippage. Once you have changed the belt check the tensioner (its on the lhd side from memory and is the only 'spring loaded' pulley. Make sure this is tensioning the belt properly, try and twist the belt through 90degrees on the longest edge thats usually a good rule of thumb (should be able to twist through 90degrees but quite stiff). If the new belt squeals, or slips the tensioner will need to be looked at.