ttsupra97

I would imagine doing this work, as well as getting a proper 2 into 1 downpipe directly off the turbos, along with ignition adjustments across the rpm range would go a fair way to eliminating at least some of the lag of plain ttc, anyone know somebody (aside from Ray Hall of course) that has tried it? I called Ray up a while back to chat about it and he said when he hits the accelerator at 2500rpm it reacts nicely and pulls real hard Gotta love the midrange of parallel. Cheers, Tony.

Hi all, What is the general consensus on a mod like this: http://www.turbofast.com.au/lexusturbo.html For those who like TTC it seems to be the logical next step with benefits being accurate boost control and perhaps more reliability (well, less to go wrong anyway). I would guess that with that setup and a decent 2-1 downpipe directly bolted to the turbo exhausts it would go some way towards reducing the lag that's normally associated with TTC. The reason I'm thinking of it over a single is cost and also the fact that I want the car to still look close to stock. Throw in some more advanced timing down low and maybe it would work pretty well? What's you all reckon? Cheers, Tony.

Hi all, Need some help making a decision on what fuel controller to go with (i have the 550cc injectors and us turbos now on my jap spec and am running 10:1 a/f). Choices are: a) Greddy emanage (piggyback, around $900 AUS including tuning software etc), or b) Haltech ECU (piggybacked with main ECU, but taking complete control of fuel and ignition timing, around $1700 AUS). I don't fully trust a piggyback fuel controller, but I DO trust the main ECU to retard timing etc in case anything goes wobbly. Installing the Haltech will of course be a lot more hassle though (plus I need to pay $$$ for a tuner to tune it). What are people's experiences with piggyback interceptors? Anyone had one on the street with a WB O2 sensor to see what the real deal is with those things?? Cheers, Tony.

Hi guys, Just wondering if anyone knows for sure whether this is available? I heard some talk of it before, but nothing concrete. I've posted this Q on AEM's forum, but thought I'd check here as well. If not, I still might try to adapt the US model using my Fields harness to move the appropriate wires around. Surely there couldn't be too many changes necessary. After all, the Jap spec doesn't have things like EGR for example. Anyone have a ECU pinout diagram from the Jap spec model? I had a look at mkiv.co.nz's ECU pinout diagram, but since that lists the air-flow meter pin I figure that's a US spec diagram (correct me if I'm wrong though). As for the base maps that come with the AEM, I currently have the US 550cc injectors, inlet cam, and turbo's in my Jap spec now, so I figure it will be enough to get me up and running to the tuning shop. Cheers, Tony.

Hi Pete, That's an interesting point about the knock sensor lines. I wonder if having a Fields harness has any affect on the knock sensor signal, as the knock lines on the Fields the harness certainly does not appear to be shielded at all... weird. Cheers, Tony.

I've sorted things out, but there is something inexplicable going on... If I disconnect the AFR from the RPM line, the racelogic works perfectly. So, it looks like they won't coexist, from the racelogic's point of view anyway, the AFR has no probs at all and happily displays the correct RPM. With the AFR connected, the Racelogic mesures a constant RPM of around 1900. Anyone have any ideas??

Hi all, I've been running with a Racelogic TC system for a few months now, and it's been running really well. Last weekend I installed a HKS EVC EZ and HKS Super AFR, and now when I am driving hard enough for the TC to kick in, the engine just cuts off. When I have the Racelogic dial in the 'off' position and do the same, everything is then fine. Can anyone suggest anything I should check? Currently, I have done the following: - I have used Graham Rudd's Win95 software to monitor the wheel sensors and RPM (all of which are registering correctly) - I am tapping into 12V at the trac ECU harness (I have removed the old trac ecu completely) - I have checked that my outputs (the striped wires) are going to the injectors, and the solid wires are coming from the ECU. - The RPM line is connected correctly. - I re-loaded my datafile (using Graham's software), and also went through the full calibration procedure (which was successful). I was thinking of next trying the launch control to see if the rev limit cut is working. Cheers, Tony.

Thanks for the replies guys. I just did some searches on the net comparing a walbro pump with the us fuel pump and it looks like a walbro is actually a better buy. They are cheaper new than most secondhand us pumps... Cheers, Tony.

Hi all, Just wondering if anyone has any evidence to support the case that the us/uk spec fuel pump is higher flowing than the jap spec pump (or at least the fact that they have different part numbers)? Thinking of getting a us pump to support my us injectors, just i want to make sure it's actually worthwhile. Cheers, Tony.

Hi all, I haven't worked on the car for a while now, but had to do some wiring over the weekend, so I unhooked the battery as per usual before doing the work. The only thing is, now when I push the car, the RLTC kicks in in a very severe fashion and I after that my ABS light stayed illuminated, along with the standard warning light on the dash (until I turn of the ignition of course, after I restart the car, both warning indicators are gone). When I turned the RL in the off position and push the car, no ill effects are experienced. I hadn't had chance yet to check whether RL has retained it's settings, but does anyone know what state the RL will be in after a loss of power? Would it be necessary for me to re-upload my settings file then recalibrate in this situation?? Thanks! Tony.

A big thanks to Phil for the copy of the DAT file (and for sharing the research that he put into it) and the copy of Graham's app, and a big thanks also to Graham for writing such a neat, tidy, error free app like that. Very useful. Well done! Cheers, Tony.

Phil just sent me the DAT file (thanks again Phil!). Would it be possible for someone to email me ([email protected]) Graham's app? I sent him an email asking if he would be able to send me a copy, but I think he's busy or something. Thanks, Tony.

Woah scary! Had any of your other settings reset/changed or was it just the wheel settings? I might make it a habbit of checking my values regularly, maybe every time I wash my car or something. I want to be able to build some kind of confidence in this unit. Cheers, Tony.

Monkeymark, Any competent auto electrician should be able to install the unit for you. How comfident are you with working within cramped recesses of your car on looms of wire that have no slack in them at all? It frustrated the hell out of me, but then again in hindsight, I'm glad I was the one that did it, because I learnt one or two more things about my car and have the piece of mind of knowing exactly what was done to my car. Cheers, Tony.

Thanks Martin, I never actually thought of using the iron to melt the insulation off, even though I'd done it in the past occassionally by accident! My impressions of the unit are very positive. I love being able to punch the throttle around a corner knowing that I'm not going to lose it. Of course, I know physics still plays a role here and I'm very mindful of the fact that Racelogic weren't able to change any of Newtons laws, but they've come close! My unit came with a bunch of default values (4 cylinder, no specified soft/hard etc cuts, 40 pulses per wheel sensor), so I haven't really tried doing anything silly with the higher slip values. Apparently, there has been a lot of research conducted here on how to tweak the TC for the Supra. Phil said he'll be sending me a dat file soon with optimum settings for my stock sized wheels/tyres, so I'm expecting things to be amazing after I get to feed that into the unit. I'm going to be trying to convince as many fellow Aussie owners to get one of these units in their cars, as the Supra is seriously underrated down here (everyone seems to put down anything that isn't AWD, and seem particularly frightened of high powered RWD), so the sooner we gets these RLTC's in aussie supras, the sooner we'll be able to show everyone what kind of potential these cars really have. Cheers, Tony

Ok, well first off I tried those crimping clips you can get, but they weren't really for that gauge of wire, so 3 out of 4 clips hadn't even stripped the wire at all. Then I decided to solder, but cut too much of one of the wires with my sidecutters before I got change to solder (I'm not stranger at all to a soldering iron or sidecutters, but I just couldn't feel comfortable poking around in a contorted position with a loom that had little to no slack at all), so I simply snipped the wires (last resort, didn't really want to do that, but hey) and reconnected with little devices called Posi-Locks which hold damn well (have been using them in an arcade machine I built at home for years and they have proven themselves).

Bingo! I checked over my ABS wiring and sure enough 3 of my connections weren't connected properly (take about poor success rate!). At least I got the right wires. So, now I can confirm that the 1997 US and jap-spec Supras have the same wiring where the ABS sensors are concerned, namely: FR+ A21-3 (red) FL+ A21-8 (white) RR+ A20-10 (blue) RL+ A20-22 (purple) Cheers, Tony. (Edited by ttsupra97 at 8:54 pm on Feb. 13, 2002)

Oh, and also, should the DOS software to monitor wheelspeeds and rpm be able to do this before calibration succeeds?? Thanks! Tony.

Guys, When you were calibrating, would the RL start misfiring the car if you stepped on the throttle at all (even slightly, just a bit more than coasting)? Cheers, Tony.

Yes, my problem is that the calibration never succeeds, when i have the unit in calibration mode. no matter how many 180 degree left-hand turns i do, the light keeps blinking on and off once every second, and the car starts to miss in calibration mode. I think it's a safe bet that I have at least one ABS wire tapped in incorrectly, but I like the idea of jacking the wheels up and looking at the LED. I'll try that tonight. Another idea that was presented to me, is to tap the ABS lines at the trac ECU. I like that Idea a LOT more that tapping at the ABS ECU. I think I'll move my wiring there anyway...

oops, i mean white, red, blue and purple wire spliced! but i have to have another look at the "blue" one. it might be wrong (it was getting dark when i did that one).

Looks like I'll have to have another go next weekend trying ti splice those abs wires was so tedious i felt physically ill afterwards. i currently have a white, red, blue and green wire sliced off the abs plugs, but when i attempt to calibrate the car (but shutting down, then plugging that plug onto the end of the diagnostic lead, then selecting one of the wheelspeed sensors, then starting back up, then taking the long lefthand turn), the car starts misfiring and never starts flashing in synch with rpm. it's worth noting that the car runs fine with the unit in the off position, and the diagnostic led flashes in sync with rpm. Anyone have any suggestions? it's probable my abs wiring i guess...

Actually, I think I've worked this out, it's: FR+ (A21-3), FL+ (A21-8), RR+ (A20-10) and RL+ (A20-22), but it would be great if someone could confirm. Thanks, Tony.

Hi all, Hopefully, someone is up who can help me out. My abs connectors don't match the jap-spec info supplied by racelogic. i have a 97 jap spec which i believe matches the us spec connectos (a 12 connector socket + a 26 connector socket). does anyone know which lines to tap? from looking at my 97 us repair manual i looks like the pulsing lines A20-6, A20-7, A20-19 and A20-29, but i need to confirm this with someone first!! Thanks! Tony.

Yes, like Rich, I can offer nothing but praise for checkerflag. They were very quick in responding to emails which is always comforting when dealing with an overseas company. They never wasted any time at all in getting my gear out the door when the money had cleared as well and also took note of any specific delivery/invoicing requirements (so I could minimise GST & customs taxes). So far I have bought a Fields Harness from them, and a HKS Type S FMIC. Below was the pricing for the Fields Harness. Don't worry if something isn't listed on their site, because they seem to be able to get just about anything. 1) Field harness for JZA80; 10,000 yen 2) handling fee; 3,000 yen 3) Shipping charge to Sydney, Australia; 4,000 yen (EMS Postage) Total Amount; 17,000 YEN You will find the price is quite competitive (particularly for you lucky brits with your exchange rate, damn you ). If anyone wants the pricing of the HKS Type S, just email me and I'll send you the figures on Monday (I used my work email account, so I don't have the info here). Cheers, Tony. 97 TT RSP 6 speed, Sydney Australia