THOR Racing

No problem. I'm more than happy to send a replacement for you to try. I want a reputation for quality goods and service so will help all I can. Regards Pete

Just a quick note to offer my services.... We have a chassis dynamometer and have fully mapped cars before. Admittedly not on the AEM but various non-the-less. We have all the equipment to measure correct fueling. Please see http://www.thor-racing.co.uk BIG advert at the top of every screen! Regards Pete

Might be worth asking me? The designer of them. What version is it? Does it have a software version number on it? The very early ones had this type of problem. Since then I rarely get any problems. If you can find out any details of when you purchased it or who you purchased the car off that would help. I'm willing to help out with a replacement unit. The others will vouch that my converters are good. Certainly a lot better than most out there. Do you know who installed it? [email protected] [email protected] 01676 535888 Regards Pete

By all means 4 or five of you turn up but I wouldn't have the support (of more boddies) for anything more than that. I have to hire extra help for BIG dyno days. If you want a BIG dyno day, 16 cars, then Sat 7th Feb (Need to know a.s.a.p) Sat 14th Feb Sat 28th Feb Sat 6th March Sat 13th March Cheers all. Pete

Hi guys, I certainly am not aware of any dyno day. These need to be pre-booked. I've just done 20 Nissan 300Zx's last weekend but this was bloody hard work and 16 is more feasible. I've got dyno days on 21st Feb (Honda Civic), 20th March (200Plus) and 27th March (Skyline GTRs). Plus this Sat I'm doing some work on a couple of FIA touring cars, plus Daniels Supra and Whele's Delimiter so I'd be pushed to do any more. By all means pop along but you must really book first. So please, if you want to sort out a dyno day then I must have prior notice and arrange a suitable date. HOWEVER.... A BIG thanks for all the support. Regards Pete

short pins 3 and 4 of the motor plug and deselect the auto down button. My Active Spolier Page The bottom of this picture shows the motor plug you need. A12 Regards Pete

I think you've sorted the FCD issue? Basically it's a simple get out of jail card that allows 80% of would be "modders" to get the power they want for the right price. It is in NO way harmful so long as you get the fueling checked out at the boost you run. This is because the Jap cars tend to overfuel anyway and we're just using that extra safety margin. You might cringe at that but that's life, you don't get something for nothing. The stock ECU does retard ignition if it detects knock. Gradually advancing the ignition back to stock setting over a period of time (a time of NO detected knocks) You are correct. You can treat fueling and ignition as seperate and not dependant on one another for most cases. I think you're over analysing this. The knock happens after the fuel delivery so what if it causes a drop in manifold pressure. That only serves to reduce the chance of knock happening again. O.K. the FPR would reduce fuel but it's a mechanical device and would probably not operate that fast. Not fast enough to notice one knock in a rotation of the crank. The retardation in ignition would have more of an effect. In the extreme case where there is a lot of knock then yes, it'll pretty much self destruct. But you've been a bit of a tw&t if you let it get that far. All these increases in fuel pump flow rate, increased fuel pressure, front mounted intercoolers, bigger injectors etc etc are just a whole line of things in the process of making your timebomb a little safer. The more you want to push the boundaries of the stock car and it's mechanicals the more you have to help it. Where has all this come from? Seems someone has suddenly paniced you into buying a new ECU? Ask yourself this....... "WHAT DO I WANT FROM MY CAR?" Then find the best cost effective answer to your question. I agree that with a replacement ECU you have a lot more choices but it costs a lot more in terms of time and setup to get there, and you really need to see a return for your money. Regards Pete

Always perform a service regularly on the supe, 5000miles or 3000miles if driven mad during the summer especially. Fit colder grade plugs, I recommend NGK BKR7EVX Fueling is fine for 15psi. At 18psi it becomes on the limit and "some" cars are O.K. above that but on your own head be it. I'd increase the fuel pressure using an adjustable pressure regulator, but only when you're at 18psi (1.2bar). No need before. My intercooler was shagged but lasted 80K miles before I could be bothered to replace it with a front mounted intercooler. BUT! I wish I had done it sooner, better performance (less heat problems) Of course my TRL VFCC is a great choice )) Regards Pete

All these problems are simple to rectify with a bit of patience and a soldering iron. I've lots of info on my sites. http://www.trlperformance.com http://www.thor-racing.co.uk/TRL/dsc.html Pete

You need to be measuring manifold inlet pressure, not say pre-intercooler or at the turbos for instance. At the end of the day the Toyota or Apexi or whatever MAP sensor should read the same as your mechanical boost gauge if it's any good. As 1 bar is 1 bar no matter where you are. It's all based upon sea level anyway. The answer you are looking for is here........ I would however note that electronic gauges are only accurate within there specified range of operation. (much like a mechanical needle gauge is only good for the range as show on the dial face) SO as the Stock Toyota MAP sensor ONLY goes up to a max of around 18.5psi it starts to get a little flakey and inaccurate, out of range. So while the mechanical dial gauge is good for 1.2 bar the AFC which uses the MAP sensor reading from the stock MAP sensor then it's at it's limit of operation and thus cannot be trusted to be accurate. This is why you can never fool the ECU into injecting more fuel at WOT with just an AFC (or similar) as it's limited partly by the inaccurate (or out of range) MAP sensor. So I bet at 1.0 bar they both probably read the same. However ...they "should" both read O.K. up to the limit of the stock MAP sensor which is about 1.2 bar but I guess in your case the MAP sensor is poor ********OR********* the setting on your AFC or set up incorrectly. Ahhh! Could be the AFC is plumbed in after the Fuel Cut controller or something and it's this that is clamping the max output of the MAP sensor to 1.0 bar ?? The AFC should be loom side and FCD (VFCC) ECU side. regards Pete

Remapping..... 1: FSE and Apexi AFCII (or similar fuel computer) Circa £400 Plus fitting and setting up... Circa £150->£200 2: Apexi Power FC (or similar replacement ECU) Circa £750->£800 Fitting is a 10 min job. Tuning at say 3->4 hours costing in the region 400+VAT Regards Pete

First of all tell us where the two gauges are physically plumbed in. If not at the same point they will be different. Regards Pete

Try reading the engine management fault codes and tell us what fault code it is. Details are on the http://www.MkIV.com site for reading fault codes. If this was a UK car I'd say it sounds like a hose off and the MAF was metering air to fuel incorrectly. As it's a Jap car it won't be this as it doesn't have one. When it runs (of sorts) does it stutter, back fire or sound like it's running on all six cylinders? With no power to the Apexi AVCR try looking for a fuse blown or something. Normally they are fed from the same ECU supply so I'd doubt it would have even tried to start???? Is this what you meant by nothing on the AVCR screen? Regards Pete

I can get anything like that made up in Steel, Stainless, or even Titanium. All polished welds and you'll be impressed at the welding. Not like a bird sh*t on it like some I've seen. All I need is your pipes to copy. I know you meant the plastic bits but with a better hard pipe you can eliminate that coupling and get away with just a small collar of SAMCO hose or similar. Pete

The VFCC comes preset for Supras. So you shouldn't have to touch anything. The boost controller obvioulsy needs tuning properly. Pete

I agree. Fuel Cut is violent and accompanied by the big RED warning triangle. High boost and poor or wrong temp grade plugs are often mistaken for fuel cut. I find NGK BKR7EVX work well (grade 7, normally 6 on a stock car). Never had to go to expensive plugs and I've run 1.2 bar for three years now. Cost of these plugs is about £8.5 each As for fuel cut controllers, see my VFCC Regards Pete

You can only go back to the mechanical minimum boost. i.e. your car will have a minimum boost that it will create and no boost controller can adjust below this (if this is what you mean by retarding boost?) So if you change your exhaust pipe and remove the CATs you may find you'll hit fuel cut. No boost controller will help you there! As for boost/fuel cut, it's simple. Boost >= threshold = Fuel Cut Boost No more complicated than that. The ideal is to be able to adjust the threshold..... which my VFCC does by the way Regards Pete

You seem to have diagnosed the problem yourself. You're the best person to go and look at the wiring. Hold the box and wiggle it. Does it do the same? Try wiggling different parts of the loom connected to it until you find the culprit. Bad wiring/connections sounds likely. Pete

Thanksfor all your emails and kind responses. Lets hope it works and I can get cracking on it. As for platforms , it'll be available first on PalmOS 4.0 then Pocket PC (WinCE) and general Win32 PC apps as well. The platforms depend on the take up of other plaforms, but the general philosophy is not to use the native routines on the particular processor but write generic ANSI C which we can port. So far we have the same stuff running on three platforms (including windows demos) without problem. Price wise, I suspect that for a function it'll be no more expensive than current Apexi and HKS stuff etc. BUT as you've seen you get vastly more benefits. Oh and yes an S-Video type output is also planned. Basically you choose which communications method you want to your device IrDA or Bluetooth (no wires for me Sir) and then which GUI medium; Palm, Pocket PC, Laptop etc then you can also buy a TV adaptor to give S-Video and we also have one that will speak to you to tell you whats going on. I've shed loads of stuff designed and under lock and key. Probably the first units would be simple O2 monitors, Wideband O2 and Knock Detectors. Later months will be boost controllers and fuel computers. The list goes on. Fingers crossed Regards Pete

I though they all were magnetic anyway? I know the diff one definitely is. Pete

A long time ago I developed my own range of boost controllers and fuel computers but never quite made it into production. I'm now trying to get Government DTi funding to help complete this, but I need your help. Can anyone who likes this idea of this product please email me at [email protected] and let me know that "Yes, I'd buy a DCX system if it was ever finsihed and retailed" The details are here..... TRL DCX-Infinity system It's a Palm PDA based boost controller etc etc and more here... Palm PDA DCX Demo to download... try it... Thanks Pete

The ratio is set up by measuring the engine RPM and matching this to the hub (wheel) RPM. This was done at 4000rpm. The ratio you quote is for the Auto gearboxed car I believe. The reason I think the ratio is less is the efficiency of the torque converter. On full load (WOT) and at 4000rpm the torque converter should be at or over it's stall speed and hence delivering maximum capable torque (it won't be locked up as it's always slipping under high load, thus you can never get a direct 1:1 drive.) The 3.9:4.1 ratio is showing a 95% efficiency of the torque converter. This can and does vary based on age, fluid condition and manufacturing tolerences. We are measuring each car on a car by car basis. We are seeing the ACTUAL drive ratio being applied between the engine and hubs. Regards Pete

AFC works by modifying the MAP or MAF signal (JDM or UK) Only ever anygood during open loop control. i.e. under boost. Closed loop control would be under the control of the O2 sensor mainly. The ECU will try it's best and self modify to correct for the excess fuel (when going up in pressure or injector size) but there is a limit. Added to colder plugs makes self cleaning more difficult for them and hence they foul up easier. That again doesn't help starting. During cranking the temperature must be know. No point starting the engine and then finding out "oops I need more fuel as it's dam cold out there" Rather like trying to start an old car in winter with no choke! It aint gonna work.If it starts then it never needed the choke anyway. So it could be a whole host of small problems related to the cold starting issue. Fitting a simple fuel controller or boost controller won't effect your starting or idle but fitting a larger pump an FSE valve plus colder grade plugs all will. With differing degrees of effect. I always say the easiest way to find this kind of fault is start disconnnecting or turning off gadgets until you find the culprit. Regards Pete

Can members please post one liner questions relating to the Dynapack and the Dyno plots produced. I aim to add an FAQ to the thor website and a little bit of help with reading and understanding your dyno plots. Also some stock comparisons with NA, NA VVTi, TT and TT VVTi plus what BPU upgrades can get you... plus what happens if the induction is breathing poorly etc.. Thanks guys and gals Pete

Yes I agree. I'll try to get some FAQ and examples on the website along with the hall of fame stuff so can people send me QUESTIONS relating to the dyno.... I'll start a new thread in Technical... Glad you've taken the experience so well Paul Regards Pete