THOR Racing

Note my EDITed addition to the previous post. re more pictures.

I need the UK spec and Jap spec facelift dial layout to complete the set. But the person who supplies the template dials gets them at £65 a set and not £85 You can change the dash to be any colour LED you like. I've done red and blue conversions before. see here Red Dials Note. I did this about three years ago to my Supra and a mates car. (Before I made and heater dial surrounds obviously) Note even the odometer and clock can be changed. Pete

Take a look at these.... Dial 1 Dial 2 Dial 3 Dial 4 Dial 5 Dial 6 Dial 7 Pete

Essentially what I am saying is..... "a tool is only as good as the operator" Strikes me most of the problems are down to the experience of the operator. So I would advise (and I'm not selling myself or anyone here) the sensible thing to do is..... CHOOSE THE TUNER WHO YOU ARE CONFIDENT HAS THE EXPERIENCE TO OPERATE THE TOOL. Whatever the tool may be. I will not big myself up over and above other dealers. I will just let my work and cars tell the tale. As for which tools.... look at the specification of the different tools and decide upon the merits of functionality. Pete ps. I can tune anything .... ha ha.....

continued.... Rubbish. 2 days is our general rule. 1 day for power mapping and 1 day for road niceties They all end up running and idling well. Any problems you do get (are there are some) can be sorted out easily at any meet or event. Oh dear...... Sounds like this thread is just rubbishing things you know nothing about? It's a shame this forum has become such an area for in fighting. I am not anti Emanage or anti ANY electronics. This is my business. I personally will map anything I or you fit to the car and do my best with the tools available. The choice is yours. But NEVER say any product is rubbish until is properly setup. Pete

continued... Again. WRONG. I've mapped the Honda S2000 turbo charged "HyperSR" car from Banzai mag on the AEM. Runs like a dream. I've mapped a Mitsubishi 3000GTO which runs like a dream. I've mapped a STOCK MkIV TT on AEM, again runs fine. I've also mapped moderately tuned to highly tuned cars on AEM. After all I got a 779BHP car running on Optimax (which is still running!!!!!!) which you can drive smoothly to go shopping or just pull onto a drag strip and go racing. (WAIT AND SEE WHEN NEXT SEASON STARTS!) We don't just do AEM. I must map just about any ECU going! You name an ECU and we've probably mapped one or more cars. ALL we do all day is MAP cars. We at THOR NEVER profess to know anything about building angines internally. BUT we know a hell of a lot about mapping them SAFELY! After all I've worked in the electronics and automotive industry for years and I understand HOW such ECUs work. Also AEM is just a GEMS unit. Much like OMEX is GEMS. GEMS (General Engine Management Systems) make ECUs for loads of people in the world. You can actually use GEMS Software to communicate with the AEM. It's the same flipping icons etc. No fault of AEM is it? You can only sell things you have experience in. Bottom line. continued....

Well.... I've just about waded through this thread. Boy you guys have been busy! Obviously too much time typing and not much time mapping (That was a joke!) I think the statement "AT THEIR MERCY" is unjustified and actually rude. You all know me and hopefully you know I am a man of honour. The point about being an authorised dealer in my eyes is that you supply goods AND warranty them against failure (not mis-use) Clearly if we supply goods (be it Emange, AEM, Autronic, Blitz, HKS, MAP, Link, GEMS etc etc etc) they will be warranted against damage to engines IF we have mapped them. They will also be warranted if it is shown that there has been no neglect in the fitting of the unit. As for price. Well, I have a business premesis to pay for, wages to pay, bills bills and more bills and on top of that INSURANCE!!!!!! so that in the unlikely event anything happens I'm covered. THAT is what being an authorised dealer is all about. Ask yourself this... how many people have you purchased stuff from that just turns a blind eye and says "no warranty mate" you're on your own! continued.....

Sat 13th Nov is now booked with the Renault 21 club. Regards Pete

Depending on what services you require we can often assist in diagnosing electrical problems and loss of power problems using the Dynapack chassis dynamometer and/or my trusty oscilloscope. Or just seeing is the car is performing to it's best ability. If it's servicing you're after this is something we don't offer. We're near Jn5 of M42 (or near Jn15 off M40) Pete email me on [email protected]

Exactly... So it's likely the VFCC is actually reintroducing the fuel cut at a higher boost meaning your car is boosting beyond 18.5->19psi. This is the O'boost setting of B (4.95V) HOWEVER!!!! I will stress that this MUST be associated with the same RED TRAINGLE warning light on the dash or it's NOT fuel cut. I've had many people say that the VFCC didn't work only to discover that in fact it's either plug mis-fire (like a RPM limiter) or Top Speed limiter related. Pete

We need to know what boost controller it is first. If it's say a Blitz SBCiD or similar then check the gain. Could be that the 1.2bar is just a spike and most of the time it runs at 1.0 bar. The gain determines how fast the boost rises and if set too high can lead to boost spiking. Pete

Your understanding of the ignition system is correct. Our understanding of the DLI is questionable! How it times things is unknow and I don't have the time to sit and work it out. The CDI works on stock coil packs and I've not have one fail yet. Pete

4 channel CDI is £206 incl 8 channel CDI is £311 incl I thought the DLI was just a piggy-back unit which... Senses when the ignitor is firing the coil and then discharges it's own capacitor. Then a short while later it fires another (based on the time it sees between cylinder firing) The discharging capacitor voltage is higher than 12V and boosts the coil charge. Hence when the coil discharges the multiplication inside causes a better spark. I do not know by how much the coil is boosted. I can see the dwell time having to increase for the DLI using the AEM EMS only because the AEM uses wasted spark and hence fires two coils at once. I guess the DLI on it's own doesn't have enough oomph to fire two plugs without increasing dwell (charge) time. The CDI on the other hand is wired in series and takes over control of the spark. It uses the ignitor as a reference and charges the coils with 540V (not 12V). The secondary to primary winding ratio then multiplies this voltage up to a very large value and wires the coil. It has a BIG sticker that warns of serious injury or death if you piss around with the CDI. Be warned it's a pokey ole fella! It is also able to multiple fire the coils at low revs. So you get good clean fuel burn on large injectors as it fires up to 8 times per cylinder. You can turn the multiple firing off to chedk timing etc or if you don't want it. Pete

Transmission of a signal shielded by a ground sheith works better when only ONE side is grounded. Otherwise you get ground loops (current loops) and more interference than without the shield. I'd recommend only grounding at one end. For ANY signal. It's odd the signal dissappears above 80km/h as poor ABS sensors usually have poor signal amplitude at low RPM which increases as rpm increases (i.e. road speed) Try swapping the rear sensors with the front (on the RLTC loom) and reconfigure the unit with the software. See if the bad sensors move with the wiring change or if the fronts now appear wrong which would suggest an install problem. Pete

Wez, Umm. Interesting about the dwell time. I did have a fiddle but didn't seem to do much, I'll have a look into it. Thanks. I did then change to CDI and swap the Coil packs at the same time. Still, you cannot ignore the oomph the CDI gives you Chris, The CDI can be fitted to ANYTHING! So long as there is a reference signal. So it'll work on say an MR2 with a distributor right up to an 8 cylinder V8 or something. One thing though. If you have the AEM EMS then you can get away with only using the 4 channel CDI as it uses a wasted spark system. If you want CDI on a Supra or Skyline running 6 cylinders on the stock ECU then you need to upgrade to the 8 channel CDI unit. Don't be fooled. If you fit an 8 channel CDI to a car with AEM EMS then it's wired up like a 4-channel anyway! So you just wasted your money. Also be careful as you MAY need to knock some ignition advance OFF at low rpm with CDI. Regards Pete

In my experience I've taken off the DLI in favour of a proper CDI system. The supra we did yesterday misfired badly no matter what plugs, plug gap or ignition advance we had. Un plugged the CDI and it got 50% better. Removed the CDI and fitted the AEM C2DI which charges the coils at 540V and with the secondary to primary winding ratio this gives one hell of a kick! to the spark. Candle to Lightning comes to mind. It then ran 1.6 bar on Optimax (with an AEM EMS) at 769BHP at the wheels. Watch out for this one soon when we get 2.0 bar on race fuel! In my opinion I've always found the DLI caused more problems than it was meant to solve, often working better without it. Pete We fitted Richard Beaumonts super fast 200SX with the C2DI from AEM to cure his misfires. Be warned this kit will kill you if you touch it, it's that powerful. ALWAYS take the advice on the packaging and heed all warnings.

Tony, You were booked in to get the AEM looked at on 31st Aug but cancelled. The morning is still available? Not had a problem like this before on AEM for the 5 or 6 Supras, 1 3000GTO and the Honda S2000 we are doing now. I would make sure the TPS is setup so that it knows when it is and isn't in idle. Might be it thinks it's in idle when you're actually at low throttle opening. The AEM is a very capable unit but it has MANY MANY functions and menus that its easy to get lost inside the software. Regards Pete

I won't be drawn into your argument but I see it this way..... Uprated PUMP: .... allows better fuel flow. Or rather can supply the extra fuel required by the extra boost (say at 1.2bar) Uprated regulator (FSE) Simply allows you to make 440cc injectors look like 550cc by upping the pressure. Regards Pete

Hi all, I've had three people pay so I've opened the day up for other people now. I'm doing a speedo conversion for one Supra, tuning of Apexi stuff for one other plus Fog Lamp conversion for Marco. Please note that because I've not had any more than three payments that I haven't got any extra staff to help out if you all turn up. Also those that haven't paid already have to pay the normal £60 rate, sorry but I did state this at the beginning. If people do want to turn up and get tuning work done and there is not a mad rush of you then you'll still get your club discount of 10% off dyno and labour (not parts). This does not extend to the power run, this is still £60. Please note: BRING YOUR LOCKING WHEEL NUT KEYS!!!!! Print the MAP / DIRECTIONS If you follow the MultiMap directions then we are at the junction of the A4177 and the A4141 and NOT half way down the road like it says! Thanks Pete

I've had absolutely zero response from this. I need to know if anyone is coming up on the 5th June. I'm already taking bookings for other cars now. (Both Supes though) So who's coming on the 5th for a dyno day? Regards Pete

Always best to ask me first I am approachable and will offer FREE replacements if anything is suspected (even if it is your wiring in the end) I'd rather have a repuation for helping and be overly helpful. The DSC's don't go wrong as such it's just in a batch of 300 some of them may have manufacturing faults (shorts on wires etc) that is unavoidable. The design is 100% reliable. Regards Pete

I've NEVER found a failed speedo sensor. It's either been a converter problem on the JDM cars or else the odometer output drive has failed. (Either solder joint or just plain failed) If the odometer output has failed then my DSC can repair this. Regards Pete

Hi mate. Cost for the speedo converter is £100+VAT and £45 to fit. I know it's about the same cost but at least I understand how it should be wired. If I can re-use the current converter then it'll likely be one to two hours work so £45->£90. I won't know until I see it. Regards Pete

Anyone know of a VVTi Supra being broken or do you have some Parts for sale? I need a throttle pedal position sensor for the VVTi Supra. (It's to go on a Lexus V300 Vertex) (Also posted in WANTED section) It's the same part on the Altezza, Aristo, NA Supra and TT tiptronic Supra. NOTE this is NOT the throttle POSITION sensor it IS the PEDAL sensor. The one connected to the cable on the throttle body. So on the left of the throttle body (when viewed from the front of the engine) It's electronically linked via a magnetic clutch to the actual throttle control motor. Thanks Pete

Ian, Take a look at our facilities http://www.thor-racing.co.uk We're in South Coventry. I can install AND tune on the dyno. Fitting 1/2 hr and tune 1/2 ->1hr = about £125 all in. Regards Pete