THOR Racing

I gree. It sounds like a dodgy speedo converter. I do know my DSC v3.1 speedo converter did just this when it fails (faulty component) so if it has a TRL DSC inside then I will replace free of charge. Particularly if you just purchased this Supra from Brian from Cheltenham? I'm trying to track the 8 I sold which were faulty (I've got about 3/4 outstanding.) If it's not one of mine then why not buy one anyway and sort the problem out. http://www.trlperformance.com/dsc.html Regards Pete

Remove the Catalytic converters and replace with a straight through pipe. You can just remove one but better make it the downpipe section (CAT1, next to the exhaust manifold) first to get any benefit. Then the boost may be raised high enough to cause fuel cut, for that you'll need a fuel cut controller You have a choice of TRL VFCC, HKS FCD or Greddy BCC Obviously I'm biased and will recommend my VFCC http://www.trlperformance.com/vfcc.html Read the important information at the bottom of the page! So many people just do NOT understand what it means to remove the fuel cut and think it's free power! You don't get something for nothing. There is always a sacrifice. Luckily the Supra is built well and can cope with up to 18psi of boost in stock form, provided you heed the warnings. If you want to go to the nexty stage then you'll need to look into boost control. Either manual/mechanical (bleeder "T" mod) or automatic/electronic boost controllers. But that should be a subject of another email and AFTER you've researched the subject, there's a lot of info out there on places like www.mkiv.com (if it's come back yet), www.supras.co.uk and this site. Good luck Pete

Sorry, Just seen the discussion in the general discussion area. Ooops! Please ignore this post. Pete

I've asked this on the UK Surpas site without much success.... I've got a question on those Toyota Parts CDs. (original 1995 ones I think) I know I got them to work ages ago but I've just tried again to install them and cannot for the life of me remember what to do to set them up? Can anyone remember what they did with theirs? I've followed the instructions on the disk in the EPC directory, as follows..... " Toyota EPC Installation ======================= 1 - Copy the contents of disks 1-4 into a temporary directory on your hard disk. eg. C:\EPCTEMP EPC SETUP PROGRAM ================= 2 - Run SETUP.EXE 3 - INSTALLATION STEP 1/3 Install the PROGRAM and DATA files onto the same drive 4 - INSTALLATION STEP 2/3 From the drop-down menu, select your CD-ROM drive 5 - INSTALLATION STEP 3/3 Answer NO, to the question about Client/Server operation EPC PROGRAM SETUP 7 - Run the EPC program, the icon can be found on the START MENU 8 - From the MAIN MENU select CD SETUP 9 - From the CD SETUP MENU select CD SETUP 10 - Check the EUROPEAN VERSION tickbox 11 - Click ADD and select the two following items: A1 CD-ROM A2 CD-ROM 12 - Click F10 Exec button The software will now ask for both CD-ROMs and copy data onto your hard disk (about 12Mb per disk). The temporary directory you used to copy the files into in step 1 can be removed. " I get to point 12 and keep getting an error. I now there is something else I did before to get it to work but I and a few others are having trouble. I know the disks are fine as they are my originals which I dig have working a log time ago on my other PC. Any pointers? Regards Pete (Thanks to Chris for a reply but it doesn't appear relevant to my set of disks unless you're sure they will work.)

Not sure which part of the post you are referring to but... >If you're keen and want to know what happening to both turbos and >how much boost you drop say across the intercooler then yep fit a >gauge to each turbo. But this is well O.T.T I mean fit a sensor to the turbo manifolds and attach a gauge to the sensor obvioulsy! >The AVCR has a boost display on it (digits) and will measure a MAP >(manifold absolute pressure) sensor attached to the INLET Manifold. >(Actually in the throttle body.) I think that was clear but I mean the AVCR has a digital boost gauge and must be fed from a sensor. The sensor normally comes with the AVCR as a package. Regards Pete

For your information again. The TRL DSC (Digital Speed Converter) has +/-10% calibration in 1.25% steps (16steps in total) on the main outputs. The unit has 1:1, 5:8 and an SLD output and all are affected by the calibration adjustment. This is to calibrate speed after fitting different rolling radius wheel/tyre package or changing the ratio of your rear diff etc. I've done this for a couple of guys in NZ with exchanged diffs, they had -15% and -8% respectively so even specials are possible. http://www.trlperformance.com/dsc.html Regards Pete

The AVCR has a boost display on it (digits) and will measure a MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor attached to the INLET Manifold. (Actually in the throttle body.) You do not control the turbo boost pressure by sensing the individual turbo boost pressure, you contol the pressure actually entering the engine through the inlet manifold. you don't need anything else really. If you do then one single gauge is all you need and only then if you want to look at a nice needle dial and not a digital version. If you're keen and want to know what happening to both turbos and how much boost you drop say across the intercooler then yep fit a gauge to each turbo. But this is well O.T.T. Pete

stock boost is about 0.7kg/cm2 on turbo 1 and 0.75->0.8kg/cm2 with both. With a modded car the boost on turbo one increases slightly but the biggest change is when both come on line. Also... >will the boost guage slowly climb when turbo 1 comes in and then >increase a lot when 2 kicks in, or is it a smooth climb as you push >the loud pedal ? Did you read my previous post on the subject? Pete

remember that the STOCK MkIV has a very smooth transistion between single turbo 1 and dual turbos 1 and 2 running together. If you look at a torque curve you see it's pretty much a straight line so there is no sudden lurch. With a slightly modded Supra (no CATs or boost controller) you will now see the torque curve have a break in gradient and increase more rapidly when the 2nd turbo kicks in. I think it's normal. The stock Supra is built so you cannot tell when you're on one or both turbos. That's what makes it such a nice smooth ride. If you get a DROP in power then yes the 2nd turbo may be not working. Check the tiny 4mm diameter pipe which goes to the exhaust bypass VSV to the right of the exhaust downpipe (you'll notice a flap valve and actuator arm, follow this along and you'll find a VSV with a single 4mm diameter pipe attached. Check this hasn't come off, or actually take it off and then you'll really see what it feels like when you loose turbo 2! Pete

>Can you build a revolving number plate ? Actually I know someone whos doing this, for real! He's asked me to provide him with an electrical trigger that operates at 50mph and switches a pop-up headlamp motor on to flip the plate! :-)

Keep your eye on the best of 10 in July. Not for speed but for my GADGET GEAR car :-)

>Ooops. No disrespect Pete Absolutely no disrespect taken. It was just that years ago I sold them as a bit of a hobby (hence the Pete Betts bit) but now I'm trying to build up the TRL Performance business so any mention of TRL is better and gives it more credability and safer for you as a customer as it's a Ltd company etc etc. Don't forget if you can't find something for sale doesn't mean it can't be built so TRL are here to help with bespoke electronic designs. Pete

just picking holes...but.. > could you bring along a Pete Betts and maybe a HKS FCD ? This should be referred to as the "TRL VFCC" http://www.trlperformance.com/vfcc.html Cheers guys for all the praise anyway :-) regards Pete

Graham, I can offer space on my web domain www.trlperformance.com There already is a page for contact info which they could fill in. I'd just make it downloadable to all if you could supply any instructions etc to install and getting started type help. Regards Pete

What boost controller are you using then? Rgds Pete

receiving you loud and clear.... Yep my pump went. I think due to me being silly and changing the engine coolant for just an antifreeze mix and distilled water and NOT using the approved coolant from Toyota that has a lubricant as well :-( Not sure but I was getting a loss of water in my rad which eventually lead to it pissing out of the back of the pump seals. Took it to Toyota who replaced the whole pump unit (you can't just get the seals or bearings etc it's a single unit now :-( Total cost was about £340 (I forget) and that was with Toyota Labour and parts and took about 4 days to get a pump in. Pump was expensive at £120+ and book time of 4Hours labour. That's all they could charge as that's what Toyota UK states in their repair manual. IT took them well over 5 to actually do it. I also got the cam belt changed at the same time as it has to come off to get at the pump. So in effect I got that labour free, just the cost of the belt. I thought this very reasonable as at the time I could only drive it about 2 miles before the water got dangerously low so I couldn't drive to someone like Leon or Chris it had to be local. There isn't any way of inspecting it really (apart from feeling around it for water or looking for rusty brown coloured water spray around the area of the pump.) By the time you taken the car apart to get to it you may as well replace the thing! I've heard of some places just swapping out the internals from a new pump and the old which saves labour as none of the cam belt or stuff has to be removed. But for the money I would save and the fact I'd have to buy a complete pump anyway I decided to replace the whole thing and even the guy at Toyota said that he couldn't believe the price he'd have to charge as he knew dam well it would take 30% longer to do. I hope it's not the pump but look for signs of water spray inside the engine bay and pray its just a split pipe. Pete

look at http://www.trlperformance.com/vfcc.html Most fuel cut devices ONLY remove the fuel cut by, as you suggested, masking the real boost from the ECU. They clamp the boost pressure signal going into the ECU to fool it into thinking there is no problem. There is NOTHING wrong with this BUT!!!!!!! YOU ARE NOW RESPONSIBLE FOR CORRECT ENGINE FUELING AND PROTECTION!!!! (so maybe there is something more to worry about and the engine tuner SHOULD tell you this!) You cannot blame the unit if your engine goes pop! It merely allowing you to get the ECU to do what is was never intended to do, so it's hardly it's fault if it causes damage. For this very reason I designed my VFCC (Voltage Fuel Cut Controller) to have a secondary overboost protection circuit. This effectively means you can RAISE the factory fuel cut to a maximum of 19psi. (it varies between 18->19) This is the limit of your factory MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor. Beyond this and the sensor is incapable of measuring the boost accurately and thus the VFCC is also unable to help. You do however have a very safe way to raise the boost on a Supra to around 18psi without any of the concerns above. BUT you must still watch out as in the height of summer and burning hot air temps I would NOT recommend running a stock Supra on 18psi without further mods like a large FMIC or water injection. (Do not rely on water injection, pumps have been known to fail, use it as a safety feature and a belt and braces mod, don't use water injection if you think you can just turn boost up even more! Bad move!) So after all that waffling (phew you all say) an FCD is fine however you must understand what is does and why, and now armed with this information you must make a decision what to do for yourself. I can only advise that as far as I'm aware I'm the only person designing and selling an FCD with this feature and certainly the only one that still sells for far less that even the basic Greddy or HKS units! The information is freely downloaded from my site and you are free to ask questions. I'm a Supra fan through and through. I would ask what unit your "installer" is about to fit? and how much he's charging? For less money you can get something that will put your mind at a little more ease. Regards Pete

Excuse my ignorance but what is a typical product name for a "dry cleaning fluid" ? Can you get this from normal motorfactors. I'll soon be measuring the efficiency of my IC and I may do this before cleaning, after cleaning and then when new FMIC fitted. Cheers Pete

have you a link to this product? Knock sensors can be classified in two broad categories: direct and remote measurements. They detect shock waves, a characteristic frequency in the engine, which are typically in the 5 kHz–7 kHz range. Direct Measurements Pressure sensors measure the pressure inside the combustion chamber of a running engine. Currently (that I know of), Toyota is the only manufacturer that installs pressure sensors in production engines. Remote Measurements Remote measurement sensors use vibrations transmitted through the structure of the engine to detect knock in the combustion chamber. Two types of remote sensor are being used today: tuned (sepecific to that engine) and broadband (generic across engines). So.... What method of signal conditioning and detection does this unit employ? Does it work for wideband remote sensors (the worst of the lot), is it a tuned analogue filter or digital filter? Does it use digital spectral analysis to determine knock? Is the detector limited over a certain RPM range. (The higher the RPM the more noise in the engine thus the lower the signal-to-noise ratio and thus the harder it is to detect properly? .......a few to be getting on with :-) ....... Pete

HKS Speed Limit Defencer Type 1 and Type2 So whats the difference and who has them fitted? (I think Paul Booth had the T2? I must check) I'm thinking the T2 is the one for the AUTO version as discussed in the previous topic on delimiting an automatic. Anyone got any installation details of the T2? Cheers Pete

The first line should have read.... "I had a spate of problems with mine and it was down to me hitting the button and jumping in and turning the ignition on too quick. " Must sssslllllooooooowwwwww dddddddddooooooooowwwwwwnnnnnn

Does the META (which I have as well) LED's stop flashing when you insert the immobilser key (rather than using the key-fob)? Do you here the click of the relay when the immobilser is deactivated? I had a spate of problems with mine and it was done to me hitting the button and jumping in and turning the ignition or too quick. Once I'd done this it was stuck immobilised. I had to leave it to fully arm the car again (about 30s) before attempting again. Then it started. A few times I thought it was a dead battery but turned out to be me being to quick for the immobiliser. Also check the 120A fuse in the engine compartment fuse box. It's the one that's for the alternator. Mine went (dropped a spanner and shorted the alternator lead (which I had off at the time) to the engine), bad set of events really. Anyway this made my META chirp as if it was just setting up for the first time whenever I turned the ignition switch on. What was happening was the META was only getting power when I turned the ignition switch to ON. In the OFF position it was like disconnecting the battery. Turn the ignition back on and it chirped away setting up. Check all abovious things. If it worked yesterday and not today chances are it's just something simple and quick to fix. (Crossed fingers) Regards Pete

Have any of you experience problems with the removal of the speed limiter on your AUTO Supras? Manuals are O.K. but apparently some AUTOs in NZ are suffering from intermittent or failed SLDs. (This is with my DSC and Greddy units) It's only on Autos that it happens. I'm checking in the year of manufacture and option fit of their cars. Anyone ever had the situation where the speed limiter was not defeated whilst they were driving their AUTO? Thanks Pete

well as I said earlier.... The connector I removed was directly in line with the sidelights (Now you know where they are now :-) ) and at the same level (right at the bottom of the headlamp) Was grey in colour (aren't they all :-) A single 90degree turn unlocked the plastic clip from the headlamp housing and I pulled this out to reveal a long (5") rectangular shaped piece of plastic at the end of which the bulb was inserted. (about 10mm wide by 5mm deep) It's tricky/fiddly to get it back in but not impossible. You don't need to remove air filter or battery to do this. Good luck with your replacement. Regards Pete

>Are the othersin the drivers door and the passenger door window switch meant to also? Now you'll have to wait until I get back inside the car this evening as I cannot remember.