THOR Racing

That's http://www.turbotechnics.co.uk They have a section on hybrids if your interested. Pete

Upgrades to the stock/standard turbo. So hybrid is using your stock turbo housing which is milled out to give a larger volume inside. 360degree roller bearings are used rather than oil bearings and the compressor/turbine wheels are made of steel. Sometimes they have titanium shafts as well. Places like tubotechnics do them and many others but I cannot think of their names just now. Pete

Chris, I've just registered and all is well. Have you made sure you register as a club member AND a member of the forum! Membership of the club does NOT include membership of the forum as it states in the registration text. QUOTE: "Welcome to the LSOC Club Forum. This area of the club is restricted to registered users only. Please note that membership of the club does NOT automatically include registration to the forum, which is a separate process. If you have not yet registered then please click here for further help and instant registration. " Pete

have you checked the obvious like all the piping on the engine bay? Right from the big air hoses to the small pipes that go to the solenoids? Don't just look at them and give a little tug. Actually remove as many as you can, inspect carrefully for splits. Replace and check that they are on tight and don't rotate/wiggle about. I suspect it's a split in a hose thats getting bigger. Trouble is the splits always close up when not under boost so they are hard to spot. Best to try to flex the pipe a little to try to open it up. If it was a broken solenoid (VSV) then you'd have the same effect no matter if you started from 0mph or from a rolling start at 5000rpm! Also check your recirculation valve (the internal blow off valve), that's the thing between the turbos on the top of the engine. Two short pipes about 3->4inches long and about 1inch thick and one tiny 4mm diameter pipe. Take this unit off and try to blow through on of the large ports. If you can it's nackered. If you have a seconary HKS BOV or something you can likely just plug up the old bov capping the ends of the pipework. You really need to check all piping carefully and make 100% sure that they are all secured tightly. Air can escape from the smallest of holes and if all pipes are loosing just small amounts of air that can mean a high accumulated loss of pressure overall. Pete

>If it is like the Soarer then the Alt fuse IS locked and is done so very cunningly It's bolted from underneath of the fuse box in the engine compartment. So no amount of pulling it will remove the Alternator fuse. anyway heres some of my analysis....bits from my conversation with Ian............... > the VSV has a +0.08v on the ground pin, and 0v on the input pin, it > can't be causing this leak. The 0.08V sounds like the ground of the VSV has a long path back to the battery (chassis gnd) and this has a small resistance. Or rather than a 0ohm resistance path to the ground it has some resistance. i.e. the route back to the battery/chassis earth is possibly damaged or has to find an alternative route back to gnd due to it's own normal route being broken. Current is a funny thing. (or maybe you'll hate it after this...) For instance if you say had a box that was powered by 12V and 0V and had an input signal that pulsed (say 0->5V) then with the 12V power off there may be an occasion where the actual input signal can back power the circuit, mainly due to a lot of silicon chips being like a lot of simple diodes and transistors which just route current. If an electron can find a path back to 0V it will do, however long the path is. (actually they flow from -ve to +ve but that's going to confuse you, although conventionally you speak of things flowing from +ve to -ve) > My big question is, how the hell does ground get a positive > voltage on it?! The effect of seeing a voltage is indicative of there being a resistance in the circuit somewhere. For information of how a voltmeter works look at http://www.users.dircon.co.uk/~doctron/meter.htm The key to measuring a potential difference (voltage) is the circuit is not changed: the voltmeter is connected in parallel and voltmeters must have a HIGH resistance. Digital voltmeters use sensitive electronic components to directly measure the voltage difference between two wires. Virtually no current flows between those two wires (high resistance), so that the meter simply makes a measurement of the charge differences on the two wires. It all smacks of the ground being duff. > they 'leak' their supplied > power back to > the battery via the ground, albeit after having done some > work with the > power first. True on a working system but..... imagine you have simple circuit that's powered by 12V and has a return path to 0V through a resitance (the resistance is the black box thing, whatever it does, say the solenoid) Now on a working system the voltage differential is 12V, why? Not just because you have 12V at one end and 0V at the other but because all the current flows through this device and nothingelse gets in it's way. Now imagine that you have an unknown resistance (a red box say, that again does something but you don't know what) connected to what you thought was the 0V point of the black box. Now the whole circuit looks like 12V goes to the power input of the black box, then exits the black box, but hang on...... it's not 0V?????,,,, the exiting power from the black box is entering the unknown red box power input. The power finally leaves the red box and gets back to the battery. (now any electronics person will crucify me for that as it's all in reverse and we are talking current but in laymans terms it's simpler to understand how voltage travels from one place to another) Now remember you thought..... hang on....it's not 0V????..... well that shows that what you thought was connected straight to 0V isn't! There's something mysterious in the way, your unknown red box. The key to this problem is finding this red box. (remember this is just an illustration and you are unlikely to find an actual "thing" (red box) as it's more likely to be a case that the original return path to 0V is broken and it's actually routing through another circuit in the system (hyjacking it if you like) and then back to 0V. Does that make any sense at all? > How do you get a positive voltage on the ground side of the > circuit, when > the battery is in place? I don't understand it! Hope the above helped. > Is it possible for a > battery to do that? No. It's likely to be a bad ground/earth path. > How can a connector that normally goes > straight to > ground have a voltage between it and the ground terminal of > the battery? Because now it's NOT NORMALLY connected STRAIGHT to ground it's been diverted somewhere else. > Boggle. Is it worth trying a differnt battery?! Doubt it. There are many many earthing points within the car and my workshop manual shows them so maybe I can fax you a drawing/page or something? Regards Pete

You normally only need earth one end. If you earth both ends you sometimes get ground loops where the ground at the sensor isn't quite the same voltage as the ground at the control unit. This can cause noise as a voltage differential means there a resistance path and that means current must be flowing and hence where current flows you get induced pick etc etc. Not good on transmission lines. I doubt it'll make much difference in this case, better stick to what others have done. (Cannot remember what mines like sorry) Pete

>can only EVER help at below WOT I should clarify that I also mean at lower RPMs At high RPMs and wide open throttle it won't help you. They are normally used to help sort out little fueling problem lower down in the rev range (to smooth out transition of turbos etc) They are of use if you upgrade the injector size as then you really can get more fuel in and you need the AFC to actually attenuate the fueling at lower RPMs. Sort of the reverse to what most people think they are for. Pete

>My AFC was cranked up to +50% fuelling, but it made no difference, That's becasue the AFC (Air Fuel Controller) only modifies the air flow signal to make te ECU use a different part of it's fuel map and it can only increase the air flow signal to the maximum the ECU can accept. i.e. Say the air flow reading from the MAP sensor is at 5V (maxed out at 19psi) the just because the AFC says there's 50% more air by increasing the voltage level to 7.5V going into the ECU the ECU still only see 5V thus no difference. Even if it could see the larger voltage level it's unlikely to have internal maps for fuel that relate to the 7.5V level of pressure (air flow) so again it would limit to the end of it's fueling table. So the AFC and all other simple fuel controllers can only EVER help at below WOT. IF you aint got enough fuel at WOT it's going to make NO difference what you set the AFC to, to try to increase it. >What is/does an AFC do? Hope the above helped out on that one. Pete

I've built a prototype injector duty cycle monitor and combined AFR (monitors the stock O2 sensor so therefore has the limitations of the stock sensor) Anyway It shows you in a range of 16 LED's how hard the injectors are working 0->100% Now on my modded car running at 18psi, H20 and hybrids on 440cc injectors I see that the duty cycle is pretty much maxed out at WOT. Whilst crusing at 80mph it's at a steady 12% (shows just how much fuel you need when flooring it!) Anyway the intention was that with the combined AFR you could simultaneously monitor the O2 sensor and the injector duty cycle. If you saw the AFR begin to lean off and the injectors were maxed out then you know it time (sharpish!) to take your foot off the pedal and get some better fueling sorted. >Could it be possible that the ECU is running the injectors at a duty >cycle it believes is correct for the current conditions based on the >information its been fed, It will always do this, yes. It only knows what you (it's sensors) tell it. >but it turns out that the duty cycle is too low despite the fact that >there is a lot more 'slack' available to the injectors If this happens then you've modded something you shouldn't. If it senses more air flow or more load it will increase the duty on the injectors. Now with a FCD you've clamped one avenue open to the ECU as it still thinks you're at 15psi but other systems are telling it it needs more fuel. They are just not as accurate. This is why 18psi is the recommended absolute max (and even then only on cold days with good high octane fuel inside) Do this on a hot day with the same car and no extra charge cooling and start to worry.... In the end the ECU will increase the duty to maximum on WOT but the question is.... is the maximum it can deliver enough? Pete

a Big fat DOH!! Yes. Bit of a boo boo on my part. I just normally read the tech section and originally intended for people to be aware of the buy going on in the For Sale/Wanted section. And then went and forgot myself :-( I consider my wrists having been slapped. I hope it hasn't degenerated like a similar thread I could mention... Pete

Let's get back to the point of my original email please as it's been hijacked. ***ONLY*** reply if you want to be in on the deal of ordering the entire UK Brake set, calipers, pads and discs from Toyota! and have the money waiting. and ***ONLY*** reply if you have a good price or deal with your local Toyota dalership and can offer a bulk deal for those of use who want to purchase. For anything else please make a ***NEW*** topic or use the discussion section Many Thanks Pete

As sent to Ian...... > Taking the car from a switched off state - position 1 on the > ignition works > as expected. So you can turn the iginition on enough to get the radio and heater/blower to start as normal. >Position 2 starts the strangeness. This is the starting/cranking position right? > If I switch off the ignition and take the keys out, the check engine, > airbag, and CAT lights will still be lit. So sounds like it's still being powered by something. Do you have a turbo timer? What alarm system do you have? Could it be the immobiliser is broken? Does the alarm still work correctly. i.e. if you open the door with he alarm on does it sound off properly? Check all earth points are securely made, clean them if need be. > If I measure the voltage drop between chassis ground and any > return (i.e. > not +12v) wire on a sensor multiplug (I've tried CAT heat > sensor, throttle > position sensor, trac position sensor, and an Apexi unit's > ground), I get > either 7.5v (ignition on) or 6.8v (keys out) until I > discharge the car. This is wierd. Someone else has emailed me to say he has a fault (after trying to fit some equipment to his car) that puts the MAP sensor output to 7.2V and the car fails to start. Turns over, occasionally catches and then dies. Wonder if they are related? > Discharging the car can be done by (after switching the > ignition off) - > removing EFI fuse 1, removing EFI main relay, or by grounding > out a return > terminal to a chassis ground. The fuse or relay can be replaced > immediately, there is no discharge period. So some charge is being stored by something and then discharged when you ground out pretty much any sensor wire (from a pin in the sensor plug I'm assuming) I'm trying to think of how that could happen. Random things now..... Does the interior light come on when it should? Do the headlights work? Do the brake lights work? (I've had someone before have the brake lighting circuit (relays) shorted out which back powered the interior lighting circuit so whenever he pressed the brake pedal the interior lights came on.) The problem is highly likely to be connected to the weather. I think that's a fair assumption as it was fine before then and you did nothing special this time. So if it's weather then it's likely to be water ingress somewhere or enough spray to cause a short in some circuit. Or maybe you can be more specific about that bang you heard whilst driving to your mums. Is there any sign underneath of it being hit by something? Nothing is wedged where it shouldn't be? Are any of your carpets damp? Has water got in anywhere else? > This, however, only reduces the voltage drop on the return > wires to 0.5v, it isn't removed fully. Does it eventually drop to 0V? Given time? Regards Pete

Ummmm.. So what happened to the full UK Brake deal guys???? Pete

I've posted the details to the UK Supras list as well in the hope we get a few more definites. I'm of the same opinion as "eyefi". I've tried to put up with the Jap brakes but 2002 is the year to upgrade for me. I have asked a question in the general section which is related and that's if you should upgrade the master brake cylinder or not. Does it give any benefit. I'm sure the Jap one will be O.K. but does it have any merit at all as a mod? Pete

If anyone has missed it there's a group buy going on for a complete set of UK front and rear pads,discs, calipers and clips etc (The whole lot) Total price is looking like £1500-£1600 (inclusive of VAT) and that's with a 10% discount hopefully. Likely to be direct from Toyota GB although there are import routes which are being investigated. Check out the Wanted/For Sale section of the BBS. Pete

So we are saying that for the complete set front and rear (the lot) plus VAT and plus a 10% discount we are talking about a little over £1500 ? I'm up for a set. Sounds like we might be able to get 5 people at a push? (3 definitely) so can we get 10% (or even more) discount? I like the direct from Toyota GB route (no disrespect) but customs have smaked me with a few large bills before and it's just not worth the hassle in my opinion. Especially when I can just drive down the road and complain about goods sent from Toyota GB to my local dealer. I'm going to ask for a price for a complete set of gear (but I doubt I'm going to be able to beat anybodies prices) and assume 3 off pricing. I know Branners is up for a new set all round but his lack of job may dissuade him. Cheers Pete

Thanks for the info. Front brake caliper- left #47750-14270 Front brake caliper- right#47730-14260 Rear brake caliper-left#47750-14280 Rear brake caliper-right#47730-14270 Rotors Front Left and Right#43516-14030,43512-14200 Rotors Rear Left and Right#42431-14150 x 2 What are the brake "pad" numbers?

EDITED BY ADMIN - THIS IS A COPY OF A POST FROM THE FOR SALE SECTION WHICH HAS BEEN COPIED HERE TO CONTINUE THE TECHNICAL DISCUSSION - EDITED BY ADMIN Anyone interested in purchasing brand new UK Spec Front Brake Kits (Calipers, discs and pads) Anyone got a price for volume purchase (5->10 off) quantities? I'm fed up with my Jap spec brakes and the 2nd hand UK spec brake market has dried up so I think new is the only option. Last I heard the whole kit was about £700. Anyone got a better price etc etc

If you email me on Friday I can scan in the pages from my UK electrical manual and that'll give you the info you need. Pete [email protected]

You need to look at my web pages. http://www.trlperformance.com/supra About half way down is a link to Active Spoiler and inside are loads of info and schematics and ONE that tells you how to wire it up for manual operation. I removed my spoiler and just shorted out pins 3 and 4 on the active spoiler motor connector to remove the warning light. I think maybe your problem is the active spoiler has lost it speed signal if you've removed the trac fuse. Not sure what you're actually doing. Pete

You'll need to obtain a fuel cut controller. Fuel Cut is at 15psi I'd recommend only running 18psi max on stock set up and even then in the summer you must do something to prevent knock, maybe larger intercooler, water injection or octane booster. For fuel cut information see. http://www.trlperformance.com/vfcc.html The TRL VFCC has a secondary threshold at 18psi to prevent you from blowing those stock turbos up. You can of course remove this altogether if required. Make sure you read the NOTES: section on that page. Not many people are aware of what a fuel cut controller (defencer) does. Regards Pete

>One thing I'm not clear on is whether the Fuel Rail on the UK spec is different to the J-Spec The same a.f.a.i.k Didn't need to change it when Darrell and I swapped the 440cc for 550cc's They looked identical upon inspection. Pete

and for technical details of the injector upgrade follow... http://www.trlperformance.com/supra and click on "550cc Injector Upgrade" towards the bottom of the page. Cheers Pete

Follow the details on how to remove the dash on my site... http://www.trlperformance.com/dash.html It for removing the radio but most of it is fine, just stop at the radio bit. then you'll have to remove the AC controller unit which is just a case of a few screws and pulling of the rotary konbs off (no jokes please) Then behind each rotary knob is a small bulb which is bayonet fitted so just unscrew (90degree turn) and replace. Most of the fiddly work is getting the dash off and to the AC control unit. Changing the bulb is easy after that. (Not sure if you have to dismantle the AC control unit or not, I don't think so. Been a while since I looked at it to be honest) Regards Pete

Franx, I've been trying to get hold of your regarding your speedo converter. I've tried [email protected] (which bounced) and [email protected] (which I never got any replies to) Please email [email protected] (or SMS/tel me on 07802 412969) Sorry lost all your details when my PC died a few weeks ago. Regards Pete