THOR Racing

"keys in ignition" doing-doing-doing sound constant tone for "lights on". The Lights go out when the ignition is turned off. It's a Jap Spec (M) 1995 GZ Auto Aerotop Pete

For what it's worth I changed my gearbox oil only yesterday. I have always used (for 60K miles) Castrol Dextron Type-III oil, and when drained I refilled with 1.9l I also did my differential oil as well, Castrol 80W-90 Gear Oil. This has been the third change of diff and gear oils in the 90K miles it's done. The first one I did, shortly after I purchased it the diff oil was a sludegy mess of goo. Now it's nice and clean and as it should be (in my opinion) Same went for the autobox. Not quite sure what the heck had been done to it but all seems fine. Pete

The active spoiler has two contact switches inside the motor assembly to detect down and up. When bumpers are replaced or FMIC's fitted they often remove the entire active spoiler assembly and this fault occurs. The cure is to short two pins out on the motor connector plug. It may be that the active spoiler motor unit was still plugged in before and hidden out of the way but having the NEW bumper fitted the bodyshop removed the motor unit altogether and hence unplugged it. Thus causing the symptoms. See my personal Supra pages under active spoiler and find the diagram for the motor assembly plug. You need to short pins 3 and 4 together of the 5pin connector to fool the ECU into thinking it's parked UP all the time. Just engage the AUTO-OFF button on the dash to stop the ECU from trying to lower it at 60MPH. http://www.trlperformance.com/supra Pete

What other piping mods have been done? Is the sequential setup changed to be true twin. i.e. the sequential prespool VSV is disconnected or bypassed? On top of the engine, top of the turbos towards the back near the fire wall, two parallel pipes should be coming from it. Easiest way to test the bleeder is to shut it completely off or replace the piping to stock and then see. I doubt it's actually the bleeder causing the problem. Pete

The HKS Sequential BOV has adjustable pressure release. Just turn a nut on the back to increase or decrease the spring pressure an hence BOV release pressure. I then removed the stock BOV. Pete

Ahhhh... Just checked with Darrell..... The US injector plug is slightly different,you'll have to shave the lugs down with a craft knife to get them to fit . Do a little at a time to make a tight fit ,as there is no locking pin to hold them on.... So sorry for the confusion. They will fit with a little.....handywork... The cable used was from Vehicle Wiring Products...... www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk trailer cable 7-core ref TC7 Connector ,7 way ref SP7 Pete Thanks to Darrell for the info.

I think it's this..... http://www.jamarperformance.com/products/brakes.htm http://www.bcbroncos.com/brakes1.html http://www.bugsandbuggies.com/Parts.asp?CN=506&SN=5&GN=7 PARK_LOK A hydraulic lock that uses the line pressure of the system to hold your brakes locked, no electrical or special linkage required. Just step on the foot brake , push the Park-Lok down, let off the foot brake, and it's locked. Step on the foot brake again, and it opens automatically. Holds any vehicle with hydraulic brakes where you put it. With the Park-Lok set, the brake removes all pounding on ring and pinion gears when trailering a vehicle. PRICING Brake Line Lock $32.00 Cheap. So where would this be fitted? Would the brake hoses have to be extended into the cabin area??? Pete

>What do you need all the electronic stuff for? cos I like controlling stuff with electronics! Haven't you worked that out? ;-) But for £60 this device will do the job. So what/where can you find more details? Worth a web search under Hydra-Lock I guess....... Pete

>*The plastic end is a different colour. Jap spec is grey, US is lavender (!) Injectors are coloured to indicate their size and impedance so yes it must be differently coloured or you've wasted your money. >The plastic end has a different plug fitting Ummm. I thought when Darrell and I did the mod they were the same? I'll have to ask Darrell see if he remembers that. >*The printed code is different - J spec is 23250-46040, US spec is 23250-46060 That's likely as the Jap are 440cc and the US 550cc ???? Different parts. I think the only concern is the connector plug. How much is it off by? Can it be modded slightly to fit? Regards Pete

For safety reasons what pressures does the solenoid valve have to withstand? What catagory seals do you need? Do you need one or two solenoid valves? Anyone know?

Has anyone thought of fitting a valve in the brake line to disconnect the rears during drag racing so the foot on the brake pedal only holds the fronts on? Could this be an electrically operated solenoid? Fails safe to always open, hence normal operation? It would help heat up my rears prior to launch and save my autobox torque converter. Also set it to disengage after the front wheels start moving thus giving you your braking back at the end of the run. Pete

I think it's quicker to just get your angle grinder and cut them off. BUT I suppose if you were replacing with these ducted ones then you'd need to unbolt it anyway I guess.

1: Cut them off!

I'm interested. Whereabouts in Camberley is Powerhouse then? As I'm in Stanhope Rd at Nokia so it's not to far away from me to get it done. Pete

Being into electronics and not mechcanics what do these bushes do and why would I need them? In laymans terms please. Convince me that my aged 93Kmile Supra needs them.... Regards Pete

>If my memory serves me correct I think Pete Betts had the same >problem after he did the mod but I might be mistaken. This is correct. I did the mod and unlike others my fuelilng went skyrocketing to around 8% as well. I think my stock fuel pressure regulator is a bit faulty (still haven't changed it :-( ) After removing the 12V fuel pump mod the emmisions dropped to about 0.5% (still above the 0.3% limit unfortunately, but with patience and a kind MOT guy we just get through now) Check the O2 sensor as well (as already stated). I've cleaned mine by emersing in lemon juice over night. No noticeable difference but didn't hurst anything. The Jap spec don't have a mass air flow meter only manifold air pressure sensors and these are not used for idle fueling. What MPG do you get? And what were the other levels from the MOT? If it's just excessive fuel you're using the hydrocarbons will be within spec still (mine were)it was only the unburnt fuel which was high hence high O2 percentage. The other figures can normally give a clue as to the reason for the massive fuel usage. Regards Pete

Just checking your not confusing my post when I said that the headlamp leveling motors can be sourced from any Toyota vehicle, such as a RAV4 for example. I didn't say they were HID! Merely that it's another vehicle I have on the drive (the wifes) and when I looked the leveling motors looked very similar if not the same as those I'd seen before on the Supra. They may or may not fit. I would have thought that a scrap yard with a UK spec MkIV would get you what you need. You may not have thought this but I don't want you to waste you time on something I may have said incorrectly. Anyway, the leveling electronics would consit of a vertically mounted accelerometer (or I suppose you could use a crappy electrolite tilt sensor, Yuk!). These give out either PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) for X and Y axis (obviously one of these axis is the vertical one) or a filtered analogue signal which I think you can measure the voltage from and determine tilt. They can measure dynamic and static changes in gravity. I'm about to use these accelerometers for another project but the generic circuit could be used for other purposes. Be warned the chips are about £15 a piece anyway so add a PCB and microcontroller (or descrete electronics) and you're looking at about £40-50 by the time it's all finished and boxed up. I'd need to get to look at a UK spec car (or even the wifes RAV4) to determine how the motors are controlled and the rest is easy (barring time to do it) Regards Pete

I wouldn't mind a copy of the latest CD's (I've got the older ones) Are these the lastest ones that Chris first mentioned? Reagrds Pete

Yes the E.L. wire is available in Blue and that's what I'm going to fit to my car shortly. Farnell would be your easiest place to purchase it. The RED E.L. wire is part number 142-220 and 'll have to look the blue up again. It's about £10/m so not cheap, plus the inveter is about £20 but the effect is amazing. I've got a picture of the blue air climate control somewhere if I can find it I'll post it to my site. Pete

Can we stop this continual bickering. I'm trying to post info on the conversion to HID headlamps and it's getting lost in the noise! http://www.trlperformance.com/personal/HID/HID.html and the EL wire conversion http://www.trlperformance.com/personal/EL_Dash/el_dash.html Pete

Here are some photos of the EL dash conversion (just the Climate Control Unit at present) on my rather crappy knocked up web pages. http://www.trlperformance.com/personal/EL_Dash/el_dash.html and also the HID conversion as well http://www.trlperformance.com/personal/HID/HID.html Pete

That's an HKS CAMP system. I had one (plus the TV receiver and monitor) in my old MlkIV and still have the parts but never fitted it. It's for sale I guess as I'll never use it. As for the mods I like the hidden gear idea, wolf in sheeps clothing. Pete

Just spotted this thread. Where did the special BOOST etc buttons come from? They look stock but clearly were never a Toyota designed button. So he silk screen new letters onto to the stock buttons? How would that be done then? As for the illumination I have a picture but not uploaded it to my web page so didn't know how else to upload it here. I can send it to individuals if you like or pop it on my web page shortly. Pete

1/ Self Leveling Headlamps. What do you want? The control box? The small motors that attach to the back of the headlamps to turn the leveling screws? Or both? I would have to say that the best motor control would be the one fitted to the UK spec cars (Any Toyota I think will do, say a RAV4 for instance.) They just fit over the screw in some fashion. The control box is another matter. How intelligent do you want the controller? Does the self leveling have to operate ONLY after manually pressing a GO button? i.e. you've loaded up you car and now need the headlamps adjusted for correct level? Or does it have to operate all the time, slowly averaging the tilt and adjusting, so going up a steep hill hill dip them slightly? Or something? What does the law say about HOW they are to be controlled? I would think it would cost £50 just for the intelligent controller. I could make one using acclerometer chips. Not sure I know what it is you need? 2:/ This can be made. A controller for this wouldn't be difficult provided someone found a suitable pump and reservoir. Not sure on the actual benefits as I've never thought about this method before. I must add that unless you want to pay me to develop one I haven't got time but I'll add it onto the list of possible controller outputs from my new products. One product already has a 3 axis accelerometer so that could be used to measure tilt no problem. (It's not cheap though!) Pete

>Interested myself, would this be available in kit form per chance? I could supply all the bits but as a specific kit I don't know. I only did it for a bit of fun. You'd need a degree of skill with a soldering iron and a dremmel drill. But if that's O.K. I'm sure kits can be purchased. Pete