THOR Racing

That must be Jake, he hates inflated/inaccurate figures Nod.

I can't see it making any noticable difference. I'm sure the septics might make up jackonorys like this to flog product but not me. My principle goal for this product is torsional twist and torque handling. That is the only reason I'd sell one to a customer anything else is just pub yadda. Nod.

Myself and Gaz from Envy both own a Black MkII Toyota Aristo V300 Vertex. These have the same 2JZ-GTE engine as the Supra but it's the VVTi version. Some earlier models do have the non-vvti variant. Mine and I'm sure Gaz's have the Tiptronic gearbox same as the tiptronic facelift Supra. You can modify to BPU etc but intercoolers and exhaust pipes are harder to come by but we can get most bits requried. Getting delimiter and cruise to work right is a little harder. Still working on the cruise bit email me at [email protected] as I rarely get time to read the forum now. Regards Pete

McLaren F1 LM on THOR Dyno... What can I say... Fantastic machine Not everything fast is Japanese. Many more photos of the day... Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 Picture 4 Picture 5 (old muggins at the wheel ) Picture 6 Picture 7 575 BHP at the wheels at 7500rpm (rev limit 8500rpm, but we were asked not to go that far)

See this thread Pete

Odometer output drives sometimes fail and/or dry solder joints on the back of the odometer cause intermittemt or permanent failure of the speed signal. Check out My OLD Speedo Conversion Pages I've Re-instated my old pages as they contain some usefull stuff for members. This kind of thing is easily fixed. Regards Pete

For those of you who know and used to use my web pages for information I've finally added a link back to my website. It contains some current and some out of date stuff. Most of it is useful and contains lots of images and helpful stuff for people. Pete's old Supra Pages Note the speedo conversion page link is a little duff. Use this one... Regards Pete

The installation diagram (which I've also attached to this thread) says in quite bold letters... "ignore other wires" So it's simple! Ignore them. You don't need them Also why not just ask use first rather than the forum? Far easier? The unit is universal and used for speedo conversion, delimiting and also combined converting and delimiting depending on the software installed. Pete

Eh? His total time mapping has only been around 6 hours. John has been badly let down my "yank" calibration files which distroyed his engine twice. He specifically wanted a nice safe map to make sure he could enjoy his car and know he has plenty in reserve for future. It's not all about max power, it's about good power and reliability sometimes! His car is one of three now which is an Auto running on stock boxes with AEM. We map AEM ecus for Toyota Supras, Mitubishi 3000GTOs, Honda S2000, Nissan Pulsar GTiR, whole Honda Range from 1992 right up to todays latest DC5 with IVTEC. We map Motec, Haltech, Autronic etc etc and I even go across to Europe to map AEM cars in Poland and Greece. >>reckon 5 cars in 4 days Yes. We could do the same but I would always use the dyno first and trim on the road. I've got far more tools at my disposal whilst on the dyno. I'm not forcing anyone to come to me to get cars mapped or use the yanks. But don't just dish it Dude! It'll likely still be running well past your tenth engine Pete

Hi Guys/Gals Just a quick note to say I've updated the image and product links in the THOR Racing trade area. So you can now see images of the cam covers, stainless dials, colours of dials, images of the workshop etc etc etc. Bye Pete

You could always email me for the correct diagram. [email protected] I've got VVTi instructions. In fact all of my VFCC's I sell get a set of instructions for all Supras inside so you probably got this via another trader. Regards Pete

I think I need more info.... Are you saying that prior to fitting the E.L. dials that you had replaced your Jap spec dial POD with a UK Spec dial POD? i.e. the entire cluster Then placed the E.L. dials onto the original Jap spec facias and then swapped the WHOLE UK POD with the E.L. dialed JAP POD. Question..... How is your Jap spec E.L. POD showing MPH ? Does it have a speedo converter fitted to the back ???? The ECU will change fueling etc and gearing (if an auto) dependant on road speed. It's often a lesser load input than MAP and throttle but does have an effect. This is why I always advocate doing a proper speed conversion from Jap spec which allows the correct signal to pass to the power steering, cruise, active spoiler and ECU and use a proper speed delimiter (a frequency clamp) and not a frequency scaler (i.e. cheat and use the MPH signal) Regards Pete ps. THOR and TRL and Pete Betts are all the same

The V300 Aristo was the ONLY car I was willing to have as a family car. Best of both worlds. 4 doors, comfortable cruiser for wife and kid, but still kicks some serious butt on the open road. They don't know what hit em The MkI and MkII are just as good. MkI's are good value for money if you want a fast second family car. Pete ps. I still have the Supra but not for long if the wife had here way.

Hi, I've got the same car. Black 1999 Aristo V300 Vertex. 2JZ GTE VVti If you want to email me send your queries to [email protected] Regards Pete

Phew! This thread has been busy. Or from another perspective maybe all they are saying is they realised they were at fault and said they would correct it. The FOC bit is just hammering home the fact that you weren't going to get charged. Isn't that being open and honest with you? I don't think is was meant to make you humble? Eh? most of us know that this is just a case of taking a file and downloading. 10s job. So even if you thought the work was crap it would have meant the car was back to normal rather than still driving around with the problem? Got to have been worth even taking the file to someone else to transfer it? Again? I don't see the big deal? Here is a simple maths example... If the total before discount was X and X = A+B (call them two parts of a bill) Then the discounted total would have been X - (10% of X) = Y or X*90% = Y Pretty basic. This expands to (A+B)*90% = Y which is A*90% + B*90% = Y So any refund of say..... "A" would actually be A*90% = A' ?????? So as you were charged 90% of the actual bill it seems correct to me that only 90% of any part refund be made as well? Or you'd be making money? I doubt you could buy a shirt in the New year sales only to come back in Feb to get a refund and expect the pre-sale price? Without being the two parties involved we'll never really know the whole story. Regards Pete

Anyone know is missing a sheet please let me know. I was in a rush and maybe didn't print all required sheets at the time. The plots are 1: Boost 2: Torque/BHP 3: AFR I need a bit of time to respond to such requests and also the registration number. Regards Pete

Colin, Can you explain more about the other chargable work? This essentially is what the £110 discrepancy is about as they appear to have offered the money back for the actual tuning work. So the tuning mistake, problem or just disatifaction is being acknowledged and rightly compensated for. Loose CAMs Is this not a serious problem One which requires immediate attention? CAMs slipping would mean possible valve overlap and hence future valve damage. Made potentially worse if this happend during a high rpm, high power stage during tuning. CAMs slipping would be caused by them not being torqued up properly when fitted. All the AEM ones we sell come with a big sticker saying "must be torqued up!". Who fitted them? Can the tuner be blamed for this problem happening? This sounds like bad luck on the day caused by a simple mistake fitting the CAMs which cost extra money to sort out. Speaking as a person in the trade the argument that this is chargeable must be in part justified. Can no one else see this? Lets not be so quick to condem without the full picture. Pete

I would recomend the platinum NGK BKR7EVX or Denso Iridium IK22 (24) Gap to 0.8mm for around 1.2bar Pete

You can run NOS without retarding up to around 75->100 shot. BUT this is highly dependant on boost and compression ratio you're running etc etc.. Using a wet system is always recommended as you can actually make it slightly richer to compensate for the lack of ignition retard. But to get the best out all the time it's best to have control over NOS jet, Fuel jet and ignition. i.e. a system that adds retard in for NOS when NOS is running and not at any other time. BUT you've got to be serious to be putting that sort of gear in. Many cars we do run 75->100 shot easily without retard but they MUST be wet systems in my opinion. Trouble with NOS is if you're using it to increase the bottom before the turbo spools up then this is when you need to control ignition as they run high ignition advance normally to help engine pick up and hence turbo spool up. For top end oomph then you can normally get away with correct fuel/NOS ratio. It's the peak torque area around 3->4000rpm you need to watch. Pete

If by Pete you mean me then yes we have a two post lift and low profile jacks and wheel ramps to get the lowest cars on. We got a Ferrari 360 Challenge car on at that's about 40mm off the floor. Pete

O.K. AEM doubtees I've just gone and shelled out a few hundred quid on a Oil Pressure guage kit for measuring the line pressure of the auto gearboxes. I'll be receiving this tomorrow and will first attach to my stock auto box and begin taking meaurements. Pete

I didn't have colours 9 and 11 when I made the mock ups. They've since been added to the list. But you should see the colour from the swatch and be able to judge the in between colours Pete

Thanks for the interest and PMs so far... Here are the colours you can choose from. Sorry but it doesn't do it real justice. The Electric Blue I used was number 10. Dial Colour Swatch Here are the colours and dial mock ups. Colour 1 Colour 2 Colour 3 Colour 4 Colour 5 Colour 6 Colour 7 Colour 8 Colour 10 Colour 12 Colour 13 Colour 14 Take a look at the MkIII dials as welll.. this is a bespoke set but shows you can have anything you like on them. MkIII Facia MkIII Speedo and Rev MkIII Gauges

Then you'll also be suprised how long I've been waiting to do it but just so busy keeping the company afloat working no stop. I don't see that as being a downside though. It will be the first Auto on AEM that I'll do and I'm sure it'll be fine. Nothing so far has stumped me for long. Got next week off to do it. I notice no one has actually offered any techincal specifications of the auto gearbox and lines pressures and ignition retard applied by the stock ECU. The ENGINE will run as close to stock functionality as possible. As for the gearbox, yes it'll need tinkering. But surely this is true of ANY modification you make to your car. For instance you may not like the stock auto control and prefer to run slightly higher pressures to get quicker shifts but want more retardation of ignition. Is that because I didn't tune it properly or just your personal preference and hence is this tinkering or just another level of tune? It's important for me to take readings from my stock box and emulate these on the AEM. I cannot make it better than that! I'm not going to say anymore as I think my time is better spent gathering the detail about gearbox control and not talking about ifs and buts. Regards Pete

I will be mapping two and possibly three Auto J Specs before now and Christmas. As yet I can say I have not mapped ANY auto. Loads of manuals. I'm being honest! No point pretending. My 450BHP baby is first Then progressively more and more powerful cars. You know who you are. I will be checking line pressures and will welcome any technical input as to the correct pressures to run in different gears etc etc. Mines a Daily Driver so I cannot F*** that up or I'm stuffed! I am confident that the AEM will work and will endevour to check and double check everything. So lets start a thread on Auto Gearbox Techincal Specifications. and agree on how the box should or is controlled now. Pete